Upper 60K Guide Is Now Under Construction... Your tips and suggestions?

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Dr. Tweak

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Well, I looked through all my pics from the other day and found about 50 that are just usable, they will be replaced almost in their entirety in three weeks when Shaun and I do his 60k. However, I really wanted to get some work done and at least get most of the text in.

So check it out! (Follow link in my sig)

Please remember this is a SUPER rought draft :)

Thoughts, suggestions, tips of your own?
 

Dr. Tweak

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By the way, how does this shim look to you?

shim.jpg


If I could get some examples of good and bad shims that would be just great! Please post them here, if you have nowhere to host them then please email them to me? Thanks everybody!!! thumb

<small>[ February 23, 2004, 02:43 AM: Message edited by: JDLangevin ]</small>
 

91taurisho

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Was that shim used on both sides? Or just the one? I don't think it's in too bad of shape... Everybody says either flip the shim or use a new one. If there is no pitting or scratches on it then, IMO the shim is perfectly fine as long as it fills the gap. I can't tell from the pic if it has a scratch or a pit but If it doesn't it should be fine.
I think that so far it looks good. It needs work but it is a "SUPER rough draft" afterall... wink


Sorry couldn't resist... :D
 

Dr. Tweak

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It was just used on one side I believe. Should you always flip the shim?

Yeah I thought that the shim was in good shape. None of the shims on my car were bad at all.

And yes, it is a super rough draft, darnit! rofl

At least it's coming together though.
 

Dr. Tweak

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Okay, 'lil help please:

Page one, step 5, the part in question marks. What is this? I'm talking about the black rod that goes right next to the throttle cable. What is the name for it and what is it's function?

Then step 8, that 12mm bolt and the bracket. What does this bracket hold? Is it one of the coolant lines? Mine was acually broken, which is why I'm not sure.

Also, what are the correct torque specs for the valve cover bolts and the intake bolts? I heard 8-12 for the valve cover and 12-15 for the intake? Is that right?

*edit* Here's the Link

<small>[ February 24, 2004, 12:56 AM: Message edited by: JDLangevin ]</small>
 

yamahaSHO

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Instead of using taped up needle nose pliers to remove the shims.... Use a magnet!
 

91taurisho

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JDLangevin:
Okay, 'lil help please:

Page one, step 5, the part in question marks. What is this? I'm talking about the black rod that goes right next to the throttle cable. What is the name for it and what is it's function?

Then step 8, that 12mm bolt and the bracket. What does this bracket hold? Is it one of the coolant lines? Mine was acually broken, which is why I'm not sure.

Also, what are the correct torque specs for the valve cover bolts and the intake bolts? I heard 8-12 for the valve cover and 12-15 for the intake? Is that right?

*edit* Here's the Link
On step 5, I'm pretty sure you are talking about the black clip that is attached to the TB. It seems like it will turn the throttle too(like the throttle cable). If I am correct in assuming that then it is the Cruise control cable.

On step 8, I'm not sure what you are talking about. Can you circle it in the pic?
Don't know the torque specs and too lazy to go find my repair manual... But I think you are correct with those numbers.

On the shim flipping, You don't always have to flip a shim but some people will tell you to. I didn't flip mine when I did my 60k(all used shims that I got for free from the 'Yards **** ). As long as the shim isn't damaged and it fills the gap to the proper range you should be fine...
And yes, it is a super rough draft, darnit!

At least it's coming together though.
laugh_ti
Yes it is...
I'm glad you are taking the time to do this site. It is a tremendous help for a lot of people. Even some of the people that have done a 60k before. thumb Thanks again
Scott
 

91taurisho

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yamahaSHO:
Instead of using taped up needle nose pliers to remove the shims.... Use a magnet!
I have heard some people say don't use a magnet because it will "magnetize the shims" :rolleyes: but I used a magnent on my shims and it worked fine(better than the needle nose I was using at first.) shrug I haven't had any problems so I don't feel there is anything wrong with using one.
 

yamahaSHO

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91taurisho:
yamahaSHO:
Instead of using taped up needle nose pliers to remove the shims.... Use a magnet!
I have heard some people say don't use a magnet because it will "magnetize the shims" :rolleyes: but I used a magnent on my shims and it worked fine(better than the needle nose I was using at first.) shrug I haven't had any problems so I don't feel there is anything wrong with using one.
It won't magnetize the shims... To magnatize another object you would have to rub excessively. Also, even if you did, it probably would not affect anything.
 

Dr. Tweak

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yamahaSHO:

I had not originally said to use a magnet because of tha issue of it getting "magnetized" and coming out, but it has been confirmed a couple times that this is very unlikely. personally i don't see it happening unless the shim was not installed correctly. would it be wise to add at the end of the shim adjustment, before replacing the valve cover, to rotate the engine around a few times to make sure that everything is working smoothly?

91taurussho:

In step 5, I also thought that it was the cruise control cable, but it seems like it cannot "pull" the throttle, only push on it... which is why i'm confused....

also in step 8, i meant step 7, sorry, and it is the same pic as step 5. there's a black bracket to the right of the throttle body.

thanks for your help!

Hey, how about some of your pics of good/bad shims?
 

sdpatt

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A few observations from a little SHO engine service experience:

There are two cables attached to the throttle body cam: the throttle cable from the gas pedal and the cruise control cable with its black plastic shroud (that strikes the cable bracket and pops the cable end off the cam) from the cruise diaphram actuator (servo).

The cruise cable only pulls on the spring loaded throttle body cam because the throttle body shaft is spring loaded and you can't push a wet noodle through a straw.

There is no harm to the shim even if you did mildly magnetize it, but there is greater ease of shim removal and installation with the magnet tipped pick that comes with the KD Tools shim pick set.

The needle nose pliers will create a risk of damaging the shims when handling them. The shims are made of a softer material than the cam lobes and most likely also softer than hardened steel tools.
 

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