SHO-NUF93
Zombie
Hesitation, rough idle, white smoke still there? Still running hot, and pushing vapor and water out of the open radiator cap? If so, it sounds like alot of symptoms for blown headgaskets to me...
Tried to start my car...
- Thread starter tgsho
- Start date
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tgsho
Registered
The smoke left last night... I haven't had any white smoke since.
I reset the idle, I drove the car few minutes after doing so and when return home the rad cap was trying to leak fluid out. Coolant also keep spilling out of the overflow. I waited a bit and took the rad cap off and replaced it with a new one from my impala. I tried starting the car, and the cap off the overflow blew off and fluid came shooting out.
I reset the idle, I drove the car few minutes after doing so and when return home the rad cap was trying to leak fluid out. Coolant also keep spilling out of the overflow. I waited a bit and took the rad cap off and replaced it with a new one from my impala. I tried starting the car, and the cap off the overflow blew off and fluid came shooting out.
bryantaylor
SHOme yur bewbs
i knowm thats why i suggested them. they could be bad out of the box or not installed right
SHO-NUF93
Zombie
That also sounds bad...does it run smooth? Check the oil for milking, or moisture droplets on the underside of the oil cap, even...
firstgen89sho
former Slo_SHO
first of all, from what he is explaining about how he installed the t-stat, it is backwards, the point goes towards the hose, and the spring towards the engine. now because of that, he may have possibly overheated the engine, causing the problems now.... being a Cast Iron block and an Aluminum head.
a point to ponder.
a point to ponder.
tgsho
Registered
New Info... I have taken the car out for a spin to see how the heating and pinging reacts. So far the rad cap seems to have changed ALOT. The overflow only tries to boil over and escape underneath the car. At that only about a capful of fluid for about 30min of driving at all rpms. The car only ticks/pings when it is at idle or just giving it acceleration. Anytime else it just doesnt knock or ping.
The coolant sits above the NORMAL, just under the red line. I am not putting the t-stat back in until I know exactly which way it goes back in...?
The coolant sits above the NORMAL, just under the red line. I am not putting the t-stat back in until I know exactly which way it goes back in...?
Did you not read the previous posts on reinstalling the thermostat ?
The Thermostat should be placed in like this:
Since you do not have a Ford Service Manual, please check out SHOTimes for any maintenance work.
Here is a write on the Thermostat replacement:
http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3thermostatreplacement.html
Where is the boil over escaping underneath the car ?
tgsho
Registered
Thanks GENESHO!
I actually looked at those pics and write up for a while, and even though both cars are identical, its hard to follow those "dark pics". Phoenix Pro didnt really have anything to say about the t sat, although they helped with most of the 60k. That photo though... answers my question about the t stat! Thanks again GeneSHO
The boilover seems to come out the long plastic tube thats molded in with the overflow....then out a small rubber hose and straight onto the ground. After driving around for a bit tonight (with no t stat) I noticed only small ammounts of boilover (less than a beer cap full).
I actually looked at those pics and write up for a while, and even though both cars are identical, its hard to follow those "dark pics". Phoenix Pro didnt really have anything to say about the t sat, although they helped with most of the 60k. That photo though... answers my question about the t stat! Thanks again GeneSHO
The boilover seems to come out the long plastic tube thats molded in with the overflow....then out a small rubber hose and straight onto the ground. After driving around for a bit tonight (with no t stat) I noticed only small ammounts of boilover (less than a beer cap full).
tgsho
Registered
and I have never heard of that method... please explain...
tgsho
Registered
After installing the t-stat I drove the car for a bit with no boilover, and then ran the codes...
Symptoms
Car is not running hot, smoother idle (950rpm), still slight pinging /knocking.
Codes
81 - IAS circuit failure
21 - ect out of test range
12 - cannot control rpm - maf?
61 - ECT indicated 254degF; circuit grounded
I am not sure exactly what to do now, I don't know the exact definitions of the codes and what to look for. Thanks for any help and input so far...
I don't think anything serious is going to happen, just simple things... I HOPE!?!??!?
Symptoms
Car is not running hot, smoother idle (950rpm), still slight pinging /knocking.
Codes
81 - IAS circuit failure
21 - ect out of test range
12 - cannot control rpm - maf?
61 - ECT indicated 254degF; circuit grounded
I am not sure exactly what to do now, I don't know the exact definitions of the codes and what to look for. Thanks for any help and input so far...
I don't think anything serious is going to happen, just simple things... I HOPE!?!??!?
Last edited:
tgsho
Registered
The car is just bogging down now from 1000-4000rpm after that no real power... poor fuel milage. I tried cleaning the MAF again, and a couple sensor wires but I don't thik that helped out at all. I tried searching for what "WOT" means... and I still dont know.
I have no idea about the codes either, I have been searching for hours and still can't find anything or figure anything out???
I have no idea about the codes either, I have been searching for hours and still can't find anything or figure anything out???
bryantaylor
SHOme yur bewbs
WOT=wide open throttle
bryantaylor
SHOme yur bewbs
have you even searched at all? code 21 and 61 shows the the ECT is bad or there is a short in the wiring, same thing with the code 81. just search "IAS" and it will tell you about that sensor. the reason its probally overheating is because the coolant sensor, and they fans proablly arent turning on. i would still look for a vac leak too.
tgsho
Registered
I just replaced the ect sensor, so it must be the connection into the sensor or the actual wiring it self? The fan has also been by passed so the fan is always on
bryantaylor
SHOme yur bewbs
i have had sensors be bad out of the box, it happens on mass produced parts
tgsho
Registered
I guess I might change the ect sensor again unless others have any other suggestions... I will also inspect the wiring again to make sure its not cut anywhere.
As for the knock/ping all I can really do is take the upper timing cover off and run the car with the cover off... I have read this is okay to do, so I am going to give it a shot. I replaced the timing belt, but if the tensioner is bad; that replacement is virutally useless.
If everything continues to fail (I am not putting anymore $ into this useless car) I am going to get my other SHO towed here, take the engine out... and start prepping my other SHO. I will be parting out this SHO (pewter - full black interior) and keeping all the new parts I just put on for my white SHO project... It was bound to happen, I just wish it wasnt sooo soooon.
As for the knock/ping all I can really do is take the upper timing cover off and run the car with the cover off... I have read this is okay to do, so I am going to give it a shot. I replaced the timing belt, but if the tensioner is bad; that replacement is virutally useless.
If everything continues to fail (I am not putting anymore $ into this useless car) I am going to get my other SHO towed here, take the engine out... and start prepping my other SHO. I will be parting out this SHO (pewter - full black interior) and keeping all the new parts I just put on for my white SHO project... It was bound to happen, I just wish it wasnt sooo soooon.
SubCool
New Member
Check your firing order.
The book is wrong. I just fixed mine. ANd now i have to do my exhaust, control arms, heater core.. This is getting expensive. And annoying!
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=75755
Anyone know a good place to do a heater core, for cheap? I heard like 700$....
THats a bit much, but kinda understandable. Given the Dash... I would do it, but im NOT cutting A/C lines.
The book is wrong. I just fixed mine. ANd now i have to do my exhaust, control arms, heater core.. This is getting expensive. And annoying!
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=75755
Anyone know a good place to do a heater core, for cheap? I heard like 700$....
THats a bit much, but kinda understandable. Given the Dash... I would do it, but im NOT cutting A/C lines.
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