Tried to start my car...

[tgsho]

Hey guys, just completed my first 60k, front and upper along with the knock sensor, ect sensor and oil change.

I tried prepping the car by putting coolant in the rad and not connecting the DIS to turn the car over. I did it a couple times for about 3 seconds each interval and on the final time fluid started shooting out of the rad. I put the rad cap back on and connected the DIS. I tried to turn the car over this time and it just tried revving out of control... So I disconnected the throttle cable and tried it again... Same thing; just goes to rev out of control so I turn the engine off at about 3k before it goes NUTS.

I tried the search button (like I normally do), and nothing came up for this one!!!

What did I do wrong??

 

[1993MTXSHO]

I have no idea on the revving, but did you install the thermostat backwards?

 

[tgsho]

I installed the t-stat so the point is aiming at the motor and the spring side is facing towards the upper rad hose.

 

[tgsho]

Could it of been because I put too much rad fluid in and I didnt let it circulate before adding more?

With the revving... it is possible that when I was trying to start it for the first time... I pressed the gas pedal down to assist (it helped) and the engine turned on.... immediately after the engine cranking, it started to rev out of control. Maybe the computer was confused (because I pressed the gas) and tried to rev out the car? I am going outside now to try again becuase my battery has been disconnected for at least 35min.

 

[bryantaylor]

sounds like a massive vac leak

 

[tgsho]

A friend of mine told me it could be a vac leak too or something with the TB. Check this it out though. I went back out to try it, hooked up the batt, it started on its own, ran a little rough (at about 800rpm), spat some junk out the back. It went up to about 1100rpm at one point (during this whole time my gas pedal is not functioning because I disconnected from the TB.). It went to 1100 only for about 2 secs, then dropped back down to 700-800rpm and continued to run rough, almost like it was going to die. (also keep in mind the car never used to run at 700-800 rpm; always over at 1000-1100rpm)

I was so excited, and then it died. I tried turning it back over... and it just revved out again I then disconnected the batt again, waited, tried starting it and revved right out again... So no I am back to the same revving out of control... No fluid is puking anymore

I think the car is just too excited to get back on the road

 

[tgsho]

What I have fixed...
Ok, the car starts now and idles at 1000rpm. The reving problem was the cruise control cable holding the throttle open by just a 1 or 2mm. That was causing the car to rev. As soon as I took the CC off, the spring on the TB snapped back...I was like o ya!

New Problems

White smoke coming out of the exhaust, smells like coolant. I let the car sit for about 4 mins just running and the smoke almost went completely away, but it still smokes now and it never did before...

Still knocks. I did change the sensor and wiring and torqued the sensor down. I cannot exactly tell where the knock is coming from.... either timing belt, or front valve cover. I might have to get a mechanics stehoscope to hear exactly where the noise is coming from unless anyone has any ideas? Can I run the car without the upper timing cover on to watch the belt?

Idles at 1000rpm. I know this car should be running at about 660-830. Do I need to reset the idle? Why does the car want to run at 1000rpm? Does it have something to do with the knock sensor or knock?

 

[Sammy~D]

all my sho's have ideld at about 1000 idk but white smoke indicates that coolant is in the system or water..as for the knocking...is the oil right..and you do not need a styascope just use a long blades screw driver and hold it to your ear and stck the blade on the engine

 

[projectSHO89]

About now, I'd be concerned you might have a blown head gasket. Rare on these engines, but it does happen.

As for the knock, unless you're getting it under load, it has nothing to do with the knock sensor. You can remove the timing belt covers and run the engine. Common causes of knocking are: timing belt slapping the timing belt cover, chains slapping the valve covers, crank cancer, and rod bearings. If you use the screwdriver method, just don't do it backwards!

As for the idle, make certain the throttle plate is completely closed. Then, with the engine idling, unplug the IAC and see if the engine dies or keeps running. If it keeps running, you have a vacuum leak. The IAC will probably remain high on your list of suspects.

Steve

 

[tgsho]

Took the car out...
I took the car out this morning. Upon pressing the gas pedal, slight hesitation. With the gas pedal in about 1/2", the cars does a slight studder, and then goes back to "normal" acceleration. I think it could be a fuel filter which I am going to change in the next few hours.

The car runs hot.. After about 15 min of actual driving (and only opening the secondaries twice), The temp rises to the "N" and just above. That is way too hot, isint it?

The overflow cap seems a like a little liquid is evaporating from there, or at least leaking...

As for the knock The car only knocks on idle and when slowing down. Under minor load, and even when the secondaries opened - i had NO KNOCK

 

[tgsho]

When I give it any gas, the overflow tank explodes. I am pretty sure it is the overflow tank, but it could also be the RAD cap. I just painted everything (which I am never doing again) and everything just keeps getting soaked with antifreeze. If I let the car idle, with cap on... it seems the overflow hose from the rad is bursting every 30 seconds with fluid? What does that mean? If I give it rpms, it turns into a huge volcano of fluid everywhere!!!

The Tstat has a giggle valve and I installed so the spring side is away from the engine. So the pointer side or front I guess is facing into the motor.

 

[Devin]

Is it filling full of liquid or is it liquid and air?

 

[GeneSHO]

The Tstat has a giggle valve and I installed so the spring side is away from the engine. So the pointer side or front I guess is facing into the motor.

The Thermostat pointed end should be facing outwards towards you. The two jiggle valves must be on top.
Also when you connected the battery, did you perform the idle program reset ? Do not touch the throttle when starting up.

 

[GeneSHO]

I installed the t-stat so the point is aiming at the motor and the spring side is facing towards the upper rad hose.

I'll have to say that the Thermostat is installed incorrectly. Do not drive your car or you will overheat your motor. Hopefully you have not run it for a long period of time or you'll have two parts cars :cry:
Do you have a service manual for reference ?

 

[tgsho]

Still not running proper
I took the t-stat out completely to see if that would change anything and it didn't. I also noticed where the PO by-passed the heater core it seemed the hoses were crimping on themselves so the coolant could not flow proper. As a friend tried adding more coolant slowly, I would bend the hoses and seemed the rad would just suck the coolant down.

About half hour ago I finished re bypassing the heater core properlly to try to avoid any interuptions in the flow. When I turned the car on, I left the rad cap off. The rad spout started steaming/exhausting. I let the upper rad hose heat up, and I re attached the rad cap. I gave a little throttle to see how it would react (the rad) and it still likes to vomit. Could it be actual exhaust coming from my rad spout? Or could it be air in the system still steaming away. Whenever throttle is applied, the rad likes to blow over.


And now I think I ran out of gas

 

[bryantaylor]

was it running ok before you started working on it? run the EEC codes and see if there is any. what all did you do? and dont say 60k, lol. list everything you did.

 

[tgsho]

What I did

New - CPS
New - T Belt
New - Acc belts
New - Crank Seal
New - Waterpump and seals

New - Plugs (autolite irridium)
New - Wires (Bosch 8mm)
New - Valve Cover Seals, etc
New - Knock Sensor and repaired frayed wiring
New - ECT sensor
New - T stat
New - Upper Rad Hose
Valve Measurement - Adjustment
New- Fuel Filter
cleaned MAF, TB, air box sensor, IAB valve, overflow tank, flushed system (coolant)
cleaned air filter and airbox
cleaned everything possible and painted everything possible

 

[tgsho]

I'll have to say that the Thermostat is installed incorrectly. Do not drive your car or you will overheat your motor. Hopefully you have not run it for a long period of time or you'll have two parts cars :cry:
Do you have a service manual for reference ?

I did not do the idle reset test... (after battery has been disconnected for a while) Turn car on... do not touch throttle, turn SW left and right, turn on a/c, turn on high beams and press brake? I am not sure if thats correct.

I also don't have a manual. SHOforum has helped be my manual!

 

[bryantaylor]

CPS or knock sensor could be bad. have you run the codes?

 

[tgsho]

im about to try reseting the idle... after i do that, i can try running codes. + i just replaced the knock sensor and cps.