Throw out bearing school

[93rev2sev]

I need a class in throwout bearings.

Are there different kinds? How do I make sure I get the correct replacement?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Just go to Advance or Rockauto.com and order the BCA 614118 kit.

 

[kmetros]

There are only two types available. The OEM revised B TOB and SHONutperformance's ceramic coated unit. Here is their description of it from their web site:

http://www.shonutperformance.com/ceramic.htm

It's a great unit. Had one on my last car and I'm putting one in my current car now.

 

[NWGRN94MTX]

Ditto what the other Kurt said. If you don't go with the SHONut ceramic unit, be sure it's a quality brand and it's a "rev. B" (it will have a quill sleeve). I have seen allot of clutch kits where they are still putting rev. A throw out bearings in the kits and I've gone to parts store where they try selling you a rev. A.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

Ditto what the other Kurt said. If you don't go with the SHONut ceramic unit, be sure it a quality brand, it's a "rev. B" (it will have a quill sleeve). I have seen allot of clutch kits where they are still putting rev. A throw out bearings in the kits and I've gone to parts store where they try selling you a rev. A.

hmmm, are the spec stage2 clutchs kits commign with the rev b's? Does it say on the bearing or something? Im not hom so I cant look at it.

 

[Denny]

Thread revival via search function like a good forum veteran.

hmmm, are the spec stage2 clutchs kits commign with the rev b's? Does it say on the bearing or something? Im not hom so I cant look at it.

I'm curious too..would say the old Midwest SHO Stage 1 clutch kits have the revised TOB that I can simply swap over or should I be looking to picking up the ceramic TOB from SHONUT?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Up until recently, the Clutchmasters clutch kits (which I'm pretty sure is what Mikey was selling as his stage kits) included the rev B. TOB with sleeve. They no longer include one (although you might get lucky if you get old stock). AFAIK, and in my experience, any 9.75" clutch kit that includes a TOB should include the rev B. TOB and sleeve.

The BCA kit referenced above is still a great deal for the $$$, but if you want the best the ceramic from SHONUT is 'da bomb.

 

[SuperHO]

Gotta correct you on that....AFAIK, the Spec Stage II kit comes with the Rev A without the quill sleeve....cuz that's what just shit the bed on my car. In my ever so humble opinion, if you buy a clutch kit, spring the extra cash and just get the SHONut Ceramic TOB, if nothing else than insurance that you won't have to worry about the carnage pics I'll have coming soon...

 

[Storm-Chaser]

I know that as of August, some clutch kits sold by Advance Auto and AutoZone still contained the Rev. A throwout bearing. In some cases you can tell by the online description, in others it's not as clear.

You can easily tell which bearing it is, as every bearing I've seen has the six-digit number embossed on one side of the bearing:

• 614060 - Rev. A
  
  
• 614118 - Rev. B

Don't count on the presense/absense of the quill sleeve as an indicator of bearing type, as I looked at two kits that had Rev. B bearings but no sleeve.


I used it as an opportuntity to partially offset the cost of the ceramic throwout bearing, since the cost at AutoZone was ~$40 cheaper than the same kit with the Rev. B - there's no sense in spending more for something you're never going to use. Additionally given the rash of clutch problems reported here over the last two years, the Rev. A kits are more likely to be older shelf-stock, and less likely to include the remanufactured clutch discs and pressure plates which have been the source for most of the problems reported.

Given that the throwout bearing is the achilles heel of the clutch system, the added cost of the ceramic bearing is pretty cheap insurance.

 

[zak]

I believe Josh at SHOnutPerformance.com will take new Rev B bearings and sleeves as a trade in towards a ceramic TOB, or offer to convert it, so if you get a Rev B in a clutch kit its worth something.

zak

 

[Storm-Chaser]

But you have to take in account the cost of sending the bearing/sleeve to him in Canada, as I did ask the question on that and the teflon coating clutch-lever bushings. Is was still less expensive going to Rev. A route, than buying the Rev. B kit.

If he needed the bearings (which he didn't), then the difference in savings wouldn't have been an issue, and ensuring he had stock to work with in the future would have.

 

[Devin]

Sort of tangential to the topic, but how important is lock-tite on the quill sleeve? I didn't lock-tite it when I installed my ceramic, and read after wards that I should have. Are we talking potential failure, or maybe next time I'm in the woods I should take it off and slap some green stuff on it?

 

[Shoaz]

Potential failure: if the TOB hangs on the quill sleeve and the quill sleeve slides on the snout rather than the TOB sliding on the quill sleeve, bad things can happen.

I think it's not a common failure, and if you're really worried you can stick a borescope down the top vent on the bellhousing and see whether the quill sleeve moves or not when somebody depresses the clutch.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Gotta correct you on that....AFAIK, the Spec Stage II kit comes with the Rev A without the quill sleeve....cuz that's what just shit the bed on my car. In my ever so humble opinion, if you buy a clutch kit, spring the extra cash and just get the SHONut Ceramic TOB, if nothing else than insurance that you won't have to worry about the carnage pics I'll have coming soon...

Hmmmm, a customer just had a Spec stage 2 drop-shipped to us and it had the rev B. TOB and sleeve. I wonder if it's an issue of the age of the stock.

Sort of tangential to the topic, but how important is lock-tite on the quill sleeve? I didn't lock-tite it when I installed my ceramic, and read after wards that I should have. Are we talking potential failure, or maybe next time I'm in the woods I should take it off and slap some green stuff on it?

I believe Brian (Area 91) can tell you how convenient it is to have a the sleeve sliding on the quill. IIRC that made the Indy convention quite an adventure for him.

Loctite sleeve retainer (green) should be hanging on the same group of pegs at NAPA or the 'Zone as the more common blue and red products. People have mentioned before having a hard time finding it at some places, but I've never been in a NAPA that didn't have it. Don't forget to clean both the quill and inside of the sleeve with brake or carb cleaner on a rag first to make sure there is no oily contamination.

But you have to take in account the cost of sending the bearing/sleeve to him in Canada

Josh maintains a US address for things like that (you can actually see the US from the street in front of his house), and even still a one pound package to Canada is less than $5.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Even at only $5 shipping, it was going to cost over $20 more for the Rev. B clutch kit after the credit from Josh.

Yeah, I forgot about the U.S. address - didn't realize he literally lived a stones-throw from the U.S.

I would like to ask who your using to ship to Canada, for $5 - and I'm sure quite a few others will want to know as well.

[deleted]

Josh maintains a US address for things like that (you can actually see the US from the street in front of his house), and even still a one pound package to Canada is less than $5.

 

[SuperHO]

Hmmmm, a customer just had a Spec stage 2 drop-shipped to us and it had the rev B. TOB and sleeve. I wonder if it's an issue of the age of the stock.

Well that's good. Glad to hear spec got their head out of their 4th point of contact and offered a good TOB with a good clutch....too damn bad the TOB that used to come with their kit ate through my clutch...

 

[Storm-Chaser]

I was in AutoZone this morning - they [now] carry the Permatex green:

Permatex Green Penetrating Grade Threadlocker - $5.49 (INCREASED FROM $4.99 IN JANUARY)

Permatex stock number - PX29000

AutoZone stock number - 29000P

AutoZone SKU number - 018532
​

Previously they carried the Locktite brand, which some stores may have on clearance - AutoZone stock number is 37423. Never hurts to ask.

 

[AREA 91]

Hmmmm, a customer just had a Spec stage 2 drop-shipped to us and it had the rev B. TOB and sleeve. I wonder if it's an issue of the age of the stock.


I believe Brian (Area 91) can tell you how convenient it is to have a the sleeve sliding on the quill. IIRC that made the Indy convention quite an adventure for him.

Loctite sleeve retainer (green) should be hanging on the same group of pegs at NAPA or the 'Zone as the more common blue and red products. People have mentioned before having a hard time finding it at some places, but I've never been in a NAPA that didn't have it. Don't forget to clean both the quill and inside of the sleeve with brake or carb cleaner on a rag first to make sure there is no oily contamination.


Josh maintains a US address for things like that (you can actually see the US from the street in front of his house), and even still a one pound package to Canada is less than $5.

Good guess, but I had a pressure plate strap break.
ALWAY'S, ALWAY'S, ALWAY'S use GREEN Loctite on the quill sleve.

 

[Bob Gervais]

I was in AutoZone this morning - they [now] carry the Permatex green:

Permatex Green Penetrating Grade Threadlocker - $5.49 (INCREASED FROM $4.99 IN JANUARY)

Permatex stock number - PX29000

AutoZone stock number - 29000P

AutoZone SKU number - 018532
​

Previously they carried the Locktite brand, which some stores may have on clearance - AutoZone stock number is 37423. Never hurts to ask.

Green penetrating thread locker is not the same as green bearing retainer.

What you're after is a retaining compound. In this case, http://www.permatex.com/products/au...Permatex_High_Temperature_Sleeve_Retainer.htm this one in the Permatex brand will work fine.

The Loctite retaining compound is #609.


The Permatex penetrating thread locking compound is meant to be applied after assembly of threaded parts. It is very thin, and has a "wicking" quality to it. Basically, it sucks right into the threads.

 

[platoribs]

Sort of tangential to the topic, but how important is lock-tite on the quill sleeve? I didn't lock-tite it when I installed my ceramic, and read after wards that I should have. Are we talking potential failure, or maybe next time I'm in the woods I should take it off and slap some green stuff on it?

Cost me an extra $500.00 in labor and a new clutch while in there caust they didn't glue the quill to the shaft.

The symptoms were when you came to a complete stop you better already be in gear or you'd have to turn off the car to get it into first, or any other gear.