Throttle Body Cooling Tubes Leak

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CALL AAA

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So when you do the bypass, what do you use to plug the holes in the TB tubes?
 

ManySHOs

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I performed the bypass mod on my mtx when I installed the new engine. My throttle did freeze a few months ago and it was a little scary because I wasn't expecting it. However, I just put the clutch in and blipped the throttle a few times to unstick it.

I am going to continue to run the bypass. However, I would not do it on an atx in the Northeast.

Tony; you don't need to plug the TB ports but you can. I'm probably going to grind the ******* off (ouch!) when I have the TB powdercoated to match my manifold.

Ian
 

CALL AAA

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OK, just to mke sure I'm doing this right, I'm running a tube from here (where the screwdriver is pointing, a few inches to the right of the metal tube that runs into the upper radiator hose)
DSC01470
to here (again, where the screwdriver is pointing)
DSC01472

Or phrased another way, I'm taking the tube that connects to where my thumb is and connecting it to where my ring finger is. DSC01473

I just want to make sure because there is another tube down there and it's the same size as the other two, but I can't see where it comes from, or to where it connects. It kind of loops out from under the intake, and back to the same area.
 

SHOZ123

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ManySHOs said:
I performed the bypass mod on my mtx when I installed the new engine. My throttle did freeze a few months ago and it was a little scary because I wasn't expecting it. However, I just put the clutch in and blipped the throttle a few times to unstick it.

I am going to continue to run the bypass. However, I would not do it on an atx in the Northeast.

Tony; you don't need to plug the TB ports but you can. I'm probably going to grind the ******* off (ouch!) when I have the TB powdercoated to match my manifold.

Ian


MuchoShosOh

Make sure the throttle plate does not completely close. It should be held open a small amount by the stop screw.

Also as I under stand it the TB coolant tubes are pressed in. A bit of heat should get them out.
 

yamahaSHO

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SHOZ123 said:
MuchoShosOh

Make sure the throttle plate does not completely close. It should be held open a small amount by the stop screw.

Also as I under stand it the TB coolant tubes are pressed in. A bit of heat should get them out.


There is a hole that bypasses the throttle plate for idle. It doesn't really matter if the plate is closed all the way or open. Either way, the computer will try to bring the idle down.

Paul said:
Bypassing will hurt mpg a tad.

Bypassing the coolant lines around the throttle body will not hurt gas mileage.
 

SHOZ123

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yamahaSHO said:
There is a hole that bypasses the throttle plate for idle. It doesn't really matter if the plate is closed all the way or open.

But if the plate is held open a bit then you know it will not bind which is possible if it closes all the way.
 

yamahaSHO

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Yes, that is what it is there for, but you can fully block off the air without it being completely closed. This also prevents wear over time.
 

SuperHO

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To get back on topic, AAA, you've got two hoses that come off the block and into the TB/Intake.....find the hose that goes into the TB from the block and move it outta the way for now as you'll need it later. Now...find the hose that comes off the bottom of the intake by the IAB that goes down to the block....pull that hose off the block....now, the hose that you moved aside earlier gets put into the block, thusly, no coolant going into your TB OR IAB tubing. Then you can take the hoses that aren't doing anything, pitch em, and pat yourself on the back.
 

CALL AAA

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Ooh, I'm glad you said something. I think my coolant lines may have been routed wrong for a LONG time, so what I did today is not right.

The way it WAS, I had a tube from the block, near the rear head, running nto the TB. There was another one running from the TB up into the IAB. There was a third that came from the block, near the front head, looped out under the TB, and back to somewhere on the block.

All I did was connect the one from the block (near the rear head) to the one that runs into the IAB.

OK, does anyone have some better pictures of the coolant tubes we're talking about. I can probably get some better pics from my car, but if anyone has some and can show me where these things connect, especially at the block, that would help a lot.

I probably shouldn't drive it until I get this figured out. Those tubes were either installed wrong at the factory, or I screwed them up so long ago that they are now formed into the curves that help me remember how to get them back on.
 

SHOZ123

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Here's the bypass

post-1-1142939808.jpg
 

CALL AAA

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Cool, thanks a lot for the picture. That's definitely not what I did. I'll bet this fixes some other stuff, too. My car runs pretty warm, and this might be why.
Thanks again!
 

CALL AAA

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Hi, it's me again. OK, I got the right ones hooked up, but now I have 2 other ones that are just sitting there. Both are connected to the IAB or the intake near the IAB. The one from the front of the IAB (left arrow in my picture) WAS connected to the TB. The one from the bottom middle of the IAB (right arrow) went into the block. Do both of these come off completely, leaving the TB with 2 non-connected fittings, and the IAB with 2 non-connected fittings? That was a long question.
Now that I really look at it, I think this picture is completely useless. Especially since the tubes are both hidden by the intake. But the text on the bypass tube is pretty nice, huh? :)
Copyofhoses.jpg
[/IMG]
 

CALL AAA

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Excellent, thak you very mucho. The easiest mod possible, and it only took me 3 days. :biggrin:
 

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