Throttle Body Cooling Tubes Leak

[Marccus]

Can you replace the small cooling tubes (0.25" Diam ?) that enter and exit the throttle body. I'm starting to get holes in them from corrosion. It looks like that they are just a press fit connection. Can you pull them out and replace them with with new tubes that are press fitted in?

 

[yamahaSHO]

Yes, you can replace them. They have clamps on them that are easily removed with a set pliers.

 

[SuperHO]

****, just bypass em.....

 

[yamahaSHO]

Still need to replace the worn lines (with one hose) to do that since his is in bad shape.

 

[Marccus]

Yes, you can replace them. They have clamps on them that are easily removed with a set pliers.

Do you mean the hose clamps? I have a the throttle body off the car, so I have already disconnected the hoses. But can you replace the small length of inlet and outlet tubing that seems to be press fitted into a hole in the throttle body.

 

[Marccus]

****, just bypass em.....

But cooler air is denser and therefore you get more power from a cylinder's combustion if you can fill it with denser air. Hotter air will decrease the thermal efficieny of the engine - less bhp.

Or you could put a bag of ice on top of the throttle body and intake manifold - it's been done.

 

[yamahaSHO]

But cooler air is denser and therefore you get more power from a cylinder's combustion if you can fill it with denser air. Hotter air will decrease the thermal efficieny of the engine - less bhp.

Or you could put a bag of ice on top of the throttle body and intake manifold - it's been done.

You're totally missing what he is saying. He is telling you that you can completely bypass the throttle body by routing the coolan from the block outlet directly into the inlet of the block.

I see, you're talking about the ******* coming off of the TB. I'd replace the throttle body or just do the bypass as described above (IE: not running hot coolant through the throttle body). I do this on both of my cars to make easier to take off the intake.

 

[SASHO91]

Ditto^^^
ALOT easier!!!!! allthough the first time is the hardest.... but still, i hated dealing with those little b@stards....

 

[Marccus]

You're totally missing what he is saying. He is telling you that you can completely bypass the throttle body by routing the coolan from the block outlet directly into the inlet of the block.

I see, you're talking about the ******* coming off of the TB. I'd replace the throttle body or just do the bypass as described above (IE: not running hot coolant through the throttle body). I do this on both of my cars to make easier to take off the intake.

Yes I see understand your point.

I didn't read his reply carefully enough. I'm at work and I'm flipping back and forth between this forum and a spreadsheet to calculate emissions from integrated gas turbine / diesel engine power generation cycles on double hulled super tankers, so my head is spinning a bit.

Why was the TB designed to ber operated at the coolant temperature? Is it because you just eliminate one more variable?
Is it to avoid condensation from the PCV or EGR? I don't have EGR on my SHO; which were requirements for '89 SHOs in CA.

 

[yamahaSHO]

In cold climates that are also moist, the throttle could freeze (ask Fred). In most cases, especially in CA, you don't need it.

 

[SonicRiot]

Bypass the TB and IAC lines altogether. Doesn't cost a dime using existing parts.

I live in CT... my TB has yet to freeze up. (but anything is possible I suppose)

Nothing a 5 minute warm up wouldn't fix. Besides, a vehicle sitting over night will have cold coolant in those lines anyway... thus NOT preventing any kind of freeze up if water happens to be in the TB.

Bypassing the TB prevents 180+ degree fluid from heating up your TB. Works really nice as a free mod.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Bypass the TB and IAC lines altogether. Doesn't cost a dime using existing parts.

I live in CT... my TB has yet to freeze up. (but anything is possible I suppose)

Nothing a 5 minute warm up wouldn't fix. Besides, a vehicle sitting over night will have cold coolant in those lines anyway... thus NOT preventing any kind of freeze up if water happens to be in the TB.

Bypassing the TB prevents 180+ degree fluid from heating up your TB. Works really nice as a free mod.

I believe Fred had his freeze up at a stop light.

 

[Marccus]

OK. Thanks for all the help. The mods sound reasonable; you guys have thought it through carefully. I'll just bypass the coolant and save me some work of trying to replace the *******.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Why was the TB designed to ber operated at the coolant temperature? Is it because you just eliminate one more variable?
Is it to avoid condensation from the PCV or EGR? I don't have EGR on my SHO; which were requirements for '89 SHOs in CA.

Throttle body "cooling" circuits are designed to prevent the phenomenon known as Induction Icing.

In the right atmospheric conditions (cold air temperature and air with a high moisture content), ice can form on the throttle plate, causing it to freeze in place. Naturally, a throttle plate that stops moving can be a very dangerous thing, especially if it freezes in an open position much like a stuck accelerator pedal. By maintaining the TB components at a high enough temperature, ice is prevented from forming, even as the cold and moist incoming air acts to cool the TB components.

By bypassing this circuit during the cold months, the cold moist air can cool the entire throttle body -- regardless of engine temperature -- to the point that impact icing can begin. This is especially true at constant speed/throttle settings for extended periods of time.

So, ignore the ill-informed "just do it" advice, and at least maintain the coolant circuit during months where the temp can drop below freezing if such temps occur where you live/drive. Good used throttle bodies can be found for short $$$ (try the WTB section) and IMO would be a lot easier than trying to replace the steel ******* on your old TB.

 

[SonicRiot]

Man, if it gets that cold, I'm not going outside. My ******* might tear through my shirt!!

 

[SuperHO]

Throttle body "cooling" circuits are designed to prevent the phenomenon known as Induction Icing.

In the right atmospheric conditions (cold air temperature and air with a high moisture content), ice can form on the throttle plate, causing it to freeze in place. Naturally, a throttle plate that stops moving can be a very dangerous thing, especially if it freezes in an open position much like a stuck accelerator pedal. By maintaining the TB components at a high enough temperature, ice is prevented from forming, even as the cold and moist incoming air acts to cool the TB components.

By bypassing this circuit during the cold months, the cold moist air can cool the entire throttle body -- regardless of engine temperature -- to the point that impact icing can begin. This is especially true at constant speed/throttle settings for extended periods of time.

So, ignore the ill-informed "just do it" advice, and at least maintain the coolant circuit during months where the temp can drop below freezing if such temps occur where you live/drive. Good used throttle bodies can be found for short $$$ (try the WTB section) and IMO would be a lot easier than trying to replace the steel ******* on your old TB.

wow...I guess someone neglected to tell my 94 SHO, as I drove it all year last year with plenty of days below freezing (with the obligatory high moisture content) without a problem...same with my 95 this year....negatory freezing, Cocheese.

 

[yamahaSHO]

As for the for the smart remark, that is an explanation as to why it is run like that in the first place. MANY people do fine without, but you would be a fool to say, 'do it, you have nothing to worry about', as it could freeze up on you. Now that both points of view have been displayed, the owner can make the decision for himself.

 

[SuperHO]

Agreed!

 

[SonicRiot]

I think my tires froze to the pavement.

Oh wait, there's no gas in the car.

 

[SHOZ123]

I've had the TB hoses disconnected for years. Live in Illinois where it gets cold once in a while. Back in the day with a TR7 and Stromberg side draft carbs I did have the sliders freeze up while driving down the road. One time in 80k miles though. Just shut the car off and heat from the engine thawed it in a couple of minutes.