Bluezone
Tailgaters will be prosecuted.
Finished installing my turbos today. Other than chasing a couple small oil leaks on the rear turbo. Everything went well.
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.



I found out my 2015 is faster than a baby turkey on the way home from work after night shift! View attachment 90631
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea i been needing to do my right rear for a few years now lol. Maybe ill just have a shop do it. While i play on my phone and its magically fixedChanged out my RDU fluid. I got a good amount out of it using
Was able to get deep into the bucket and beyond. I reversed the tubes to refill it as well. No mess, and way easier than I thought.
Also, took a crack at the rear wheel bearing again. 3 times now. Spindle is going to have to come off and be pressed out. Ridiculous.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yea i been needing to do my right rear for a few years now lol. Maybe ill just have a shop do it. While i play on my phone and its magically fixed
The screw hole for the rotor. I seen others use a bolt in there to force out the hub. Just gotta line it up to a landing on the knuckle. I aint tryed it yet. But what i seen its pretty easy to push out that waySame one for me ! Thing is absolutely insanely corroded in there. I’m at the point where shit is gonna break, my face , spindle , tie rod, something. Now it’s just a thing between me and that bearing. It’s coming out and it’s coming out soon. Called in the big guns for tomorrow. Old ford mechanic body that has a press and everything else we need.
I literally stripped this bolt today, and this thing is pretty beefy.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is supposed to work well. I've seen several "YouTube" mechanics use it. No personal experience.
Replaced rear toe links, online claims the recall was performed and there were ford stickers on the parts but not sure why they were as bad as they were. both sides had a lot of movement, when i installed the new ones using the same measurements from the old ones the car crab walked hard. tape measure to the rescue, i set my "thrust angle" to about 1/32" toe in. anyone know if thats too much or too little? the car is ridiculously responsive now between new stickys and fresh toe links, not sure if its because I have them toed in too much or if the car is just supposed to be that good. not twitchy, just different from how i became used to. point and shoot handling with little to no body roll whereas before it felt more like a full size sedan

You sir are awesome, incredible information. and according to this website Convert Toe to Degrees Calculator I am out of spec by about a quarter inch, sitting at .05* total toe.
I found using the Whiteline sway there are two holes for firmness, use the more comfortable or outer hole at the end of the bar. If they used the snug setting I noticed it hits the chassis.Got her new shoes finally put on this morning, so happy there, but starting last night I started noticing a clunking sound. Just got home and found the source, I recently installed the whiteline sway bar and some new Mevotech sway bar links, and it seems the end of the stud on the link is coming into contact with this lower arm. I'm guessing this means my install was not dine correctly. Any advice?
Thanks for the tip, she's free and clear now. Working on getting the rear trans mounts now, but still running into an issue with the downpipes. I was able to break the front bolt of the rear trans mount loose, but running the bolt into the downpipe as I loosen it. I did note another bolt above the transmount that broke loose pretty easily, but before I go ahead and remove it wanted to confirm with yall I'm not about to do something stupid here. Also I'm hoping by getting the front bolt off I'll be able to twist the mount and get better access to the rear bolt. What am I missing here, because I'm sure this was supposed to be pretty straight forward.I found using the Whiteline sway there are two holes for firmness, use the more comfortable or outer hole at the end of the bar. If they used the snug setting I noticed it hits the chassis.