So what did you do to your SHO today!?

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yaycandy

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Wipers have been acting up recently and getting worse. Wouldnt fully turn off. Would stay at lowest intermittent. Ordered new switch on tasca and did it today. 5 mins. Clowns online make it out to be a harder job with pulling the steering wheel. Just turn it a bit. 2 7mm screws on bottom then 2 T10 holding the switch in. I guess ill see if its fixed or not. Time will tell.

So far today in the on and off thunderstorms it’s good.

IMG 8458
 
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cole3498

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AD Gen2 trans mounts and Whiteline rear swaybar went in today, immediate shifting improvement with the mounts. So firm and *almost* completely fixed my wheel hop, some better tires might be in order to completely remove that. NVH in the cabin is very noticeable, but I love it, finally has some growl to go with its performance.

Ignore the rust, Canada things lol
Af05d329ec115762ddbb5e47c9d30cb6
710915b6fb4365ebfa4ad5cc19470e77


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GTRPhilly

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Changed out my RDU fluid. I got a good amount out of it using


Was able to get deep into the bucket and beyond. I reversed the tubes to refill it as well. No mess, and way easier than I thought.

Also, took a crack at the rear wheel bearing again. 3 times now. Spindle is going to have to come off and be pressed out. Ridiculous.


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yaycandy

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Changed out my RDU fluid. I got a good amount out of it using


Was able to get deep into the bucket and beyond. I reversed the tubes to refill it as well. No mess, and way easier than I thought.

Also, took a crack at the rear wheel bearing again. 3 times now. Spindle is going to have to come off and be pressed out. Ridiculous.


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Yea i been needing to do my right rear for a few years now lol. Maybe ill just have a shop do it. While i play on my phone and its magically fixed
 

GTRPhilly

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Yea i been needing to do my right rear for a few years now lol. Maybe ill just have a shop do it. While i play on my phone and its magically fixed

Same one for me ! Thing is absolutely insanely corroded in there. I’m at the point where shit is gonna break, my face , spindle , tie rod, something. Now it’s just a thing between me and that bearing. It’s coming out and it’s coming out soon. Called in the big guns for tomorrow. Old ford mechanic body that has a press and everything else we need.

I literally stripped this bolt today, and this thing is pretty beefy.



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yaycandy

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Same one for me ! Thing is absolutely insanely corroded in there. I’m at the point where shit is gonna break, my face , spindle , tie rod, something. Now it’s just a thing between me and that bearing. It’s coming out and it’s coming out soon. Called in the big guns for tomorrow. Old ford mechanic body that has a press and everything else we need.

I literally stripped this bolt today, and this thing is pretty beefy.



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The screw hole for the rotor. I seen others use a bolt in there to force out the hub. Just gotta line it up to a landing on the knuckle. I aint tryed it yet. But what i seen its pretty easy to push out that way
 

GTRPhilly

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This is supposed to work well. I've seen several "YouTube" mechanics use it. No personal experience.


Trust me fellas’ this ain’t the way for this particular car/bearing. There is one video I saw as well where the guy tried everything I have so far. He ended up with the spindle off and in a press to get it out. It’s well beyond using bolts and pullers.



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Replaced rear toe links, online claims the recall was performed and there were ford stickers on the parts but not sure why they were as bad as they were. both sides had a lot of movement, when i installed the new ones using the same measurements from the old ones the car crab walked hard. tape measure to the rescue, i set my "thrust angle" to about 1/32" toe in. anyone know if thats too much or too little? the car is ridiculously responsive now between new stickys and fresh toe links, not sure if its because I have them toed in too much or if the car is just supposed to be that good. not twitchy, just different from how i became used to. point and shoot handling with little to no body roll whereas before it felt more like a full size sedan
 

kryptto

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Replaced rear toe links, online claims the recall was performed and there were ford stickers on the parts but not sure why they were as bad as they were. both sides had a lot of movement, when i installed the new ones using the same measurements from the old ones the car crab walked hard. tape measure to the rescue, i set my "thrust angle" to about 1/32" toe in. anyone know if thats too much or too little? the car is ridiculously responsive now between new stickys and fresh toe links, not sure if its because I have them toed in too much or if the car is just supposed to be that good. not twitchy, just different from how i became used to. point and shoot handling with little to no body roll whereas before it felt more like a full size sedan
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TheOGScooby

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Got her new shoes finally put on this morning, so happy there, but starting last night I started noticing a clunking sound. Just got home and found the source, I recently installed the whiteline sway bar and some new Mevotech sway bar links, and it seems the end of the stud on the link is coming into contact with this lower arm. I'm guessing this means my install was not dine correctly. Any advice?
 

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kryptto

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Got her new shoes finally put on this morning, so happy there, but starting last night I started noticing a clunking sound. Just got home and found the source, I recently installed the whiteline sway bar and some new Mevotech sway bar links, and it seems the end of the stud on the link is coming into contact with this lower arm. I'm guessing this means my install was not dine correctly. Any advice?
I found using the Whiteline sway there are two holes for firmness, use the more comfortable or outer hole at the end of the bar. If they used the snug setting I noticed it hits the chassis.
 

TheOGScooby

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I found using the Whiteline sway there are two holes for firmness, use the more comfortable or outer hole at the end of the bar. If they used the snug setting I noticed it hits the chassis.
Thanks for the tip, she's free and clear now. Working on getting the rear trans mounts now, but still running into an issue with the downpipes. I was able to break the front bolt of the rear trans mount loose, but running the bolt into the downpipe as I loosen it. I did note another bolt above the transmount that broke loose pretty easily, but before I go ahead and remove it wanted to confirm with yall I'm not about to do something stupid here. Also I'm hoping by getting the front bolt off I'll be able to twist the mount and get better access to the rear bolt. What am I missing here, because I'm sure this was supposed to be pretty straight forward.
 

TheOGScooby

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Sorry photos didn't upload on 1st attempt
 

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I’m not sure where to put this post but it seemed like it would fit best here. I didn’t do any work on my car but I just took a 361.2 mile drive to see family and back. The drive goes through the mountains and hills of upstate NY and VT and can you believe it, my SHO averaged 28.1 mpg. Now I’m not sure about anyone else but this was unheard of for me and I’m used to 21 being the best I’ve gotten before. I wasn’t driving like a grandma but also wasn’t clocking in high speeds, just sitting in the speed limit being out of state. My mind was blown! My SHO is stock but I just put new bearings, shocks and sway bar links in but no way in **** that would do anything like that. Let me know if you guys have ever reached anything like that before because I was blown away!
 

cole3498

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Attended a local Show 'n Shine, got the chance to put out the good word of the SHO. May have been slightly outshone by a couple headliners lol
 

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