Sho stalls and won't start when hot

[psix]

Hello everyone! I replaced the crankshaft sensor, cleaned the connector on the camshaft sensor, it didn’t help!
When hot, the craving disappears, it stalls, it’s hard to start, I’m attaching a video. Thank you!

 

[Majestic]

Do these use a TFI like the SVO, Turbocoupe, etc had? Those would cause the same issue, especially if not installed using thermal paste.

 

[luigisho]

Do these use a TFI like the SVO, Turbocoupe, etc had? Those would cause the same issue, especially if not installed using thermal paste.

Yes they do.

Hello everyone! I replaced the crankshaft sensor, cleaned the connector on the camshaft sensor, it didn’t help!
When hot, the craving disappears, it stalls, it’s hard to start, I’m attaching a video. Thank you!

Do you have the ability to get the codes from the computer? This will help narrow it down.

 

[Irish Pride]

Pull codes and see what comes up.

If you want to throw a part at it, swap out the DIS module with a known good one and some fresh heat sink.

-Chad

 

[psix]

Pull codes and see what comes up.

If you want to throw a part at it, swap out the DIS module with a known good one and some fresh heat sink.

-Chad

I tried to change the dis, didn't help.
How to read codes please?

 

[psix]

Do these use a TFI like the SVO, Turbocoupe, etc had? Those would cause the same issue, especially if not installed using thermal paste.

I checked the dis module and applied the paste, it did not help.

 

[Majestic]

I checked the dis module and applied the paste, it did not help.

Thermal paste, not dialectric grease, right?

 

[luigisho]

What year is your car? early have 2 digit and later have 3 digit codes
You can check it with a paperclip and count dash light flashes here

Inactive | HelioHost

If you have difficulty getting the counting right (happens alot) this code reader has come in very handy. You can use amazon and also probably find it locally at a parts store

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW/ref=asc_df_B000EW0KHW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312158556601&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=811830892550571964&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008533&hvtargid=pla-434264198620&psc=1

 

[psix]

Do these use a TFI like the SVO, Turbocoupe, etc had? Those would cause the same issue, especially if not installed using thermal paste.

I checked the dis module and applied the paste, it did not help

Thermal paste, not dialectric grease, right?

Paste,added another video, please watch

 

[psix]

What year is your car? early have 2 digit and later have 3 digit codes
You can check it with a paperclip and count dash light flashes here

Inactive | HelioHost

If you have difficulty getting the counting right (happens alot) this code reader has come in very handy. You can use amazon and also probably find it locally at a parts store

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW/ref=asc_df_B000EW0KHW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312158556601&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=811830892550571964&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008533&hvtargid=pla-434264198620&psc=1

Thanks! I thought I'll figure it out soon.

 

[psix]

Today I cleaned the masses of everything under the hood, checked the fuses, turned off the sensors one by one, the throttle valve, air, temperature sensor, until nothing helped, even when it is cold it can not start.

 

[Blackdr16]

Different direction here... have you checked fuel pressure? Baseline reading? If it changes when it's hot? I once beat my head against a wall as my fuel pump slowly died.

 

[luigisho]

or you could check the codes. Cleaning sensors is not going to get you there except maybe cam sensor. I would look at IAB/IAC for the funky idle. Dead tack can sometimes be a cam sensor. It would be best to check the computer codes to help yourself
that message is on lather,rinse, repeat
You will need to know how to do this going forward. This old bucket will have other problems pop up.

 

[FastCAD]

Today I cleaned the masses of everything under the hood, checked the fuses, turned off the sensors one by one, the throttle valve, air, temperature sensor, until nothing helped, even when it is cold it can not start.

u mentioned that when "when hot it stalls and is hard to start". Does it start when cold? Do u have to try many times to get it to start at all? If so it could point to the cam sensor. Unplug the cam sensor (when cool) try to start (it may take up to five times) the ecm will go through differentt firing orders to get the start up. If it starts then it is the cam sensor. Black round sensor left rear eng. block below the intake manifold facing the pass. strut tower.

 

[psix]

Different direction here... have you checked fuel pressure? Baseline reading? If it changes when it's hot? I once beat my head against a wall as my fuel pump slowly died.

Yes, I looked when it didn’t start, the pressure was good, because there is this thing on the ramp, then a friend suggested that it could soar brains, a temperature sensor on the ecu, I’ll try to turn it off

 

[psix]

u mentioned that when "when hot it stalls and is hard to start". Does it start when cold? Do u have to try many times to get it to start at all? If so it could point to the cam sensor. Unplug the cam sensor (when cool) try to start (it may take up to five times) the ecm will go through differentt firing orders to get the start up. If it starts then it is the cam sensor. Black round sensor left rear eng. block below the intake manifold facing the pass. strut tower.

I climbed to it, the plug was green, I cleaned it, the sensor itself was removed, cleaned and assembled, until it helped. I'll try, thanks!

 

[psix]

Friends, after a long dance, I decided to check the fuel pump, when the car stalled and would not start, I knocked on the tank and after it started, so three times. I bought a new pump, changed it, left in the evening and in the morning again this garbage, stalls.

I haven’t measured the pressure in the rail yet. There is an error in the EGR, I looked for the valves, I didn’t find where they are? Maybe someone has a manual in pdf for sho or where can I download it?

Then I found out about the sensor from the steering rack to the ecu, can it give such symptoms? For four contacts which. Of course, there is another option that the bad pump is new, but I'll check it later.

 

[psix]

I have a jumper on the clutch sensor, now I understand that this can be a hindrance too?

 

[Blackdr16]

What was your codes?

The clutch sensor is unlikely, it wouldn't cause it to die. It would only cause a no crank when trying to start as the pedal has to be depressed.

Get codes, check grounds. Likely something that is failing when heat or foreign matter is introduced (oil, water...)
Would recommend getting yourself a fuel pressure gauge just to know you aren't loosing pressure at the rails (again faulty ground, bad ECU, pump issue...all of the above). You'll find having it in your tool arsenal handy in the future even if it isnt a cause of this issue.

Many of these issues are found by eliminating possibilities. Codes are easiest and most accurate. Next is running down the list of verifying things are within expected parameters. This is why you'll want test gauges, multimeter..etc. I wouldn't purchase and replace any parts until verifying something is bad. (Most of us now have a box of various spare parts in the trunk thats grown over the years, makes some troubleshooting easier)

 

[psix]

What was your codes?

The clutch sensor is unlikely, it wouldn't cause it to die. It would only cause a no crank when trying to start as the pedal has to be depressed.

Get codes, check grounds. Likely something that is failing when heat or foreign matter is introduced (oil, water...)
Would recommend getting yourself a fuel pressure gauge just to know you aren't loosing pressure at the rails (again faulty ground, bad ECU, pump issue...all of the above). You'll find having it in your tool arsenal handy in the future even if it isnt a cause of this issue.

Many of these issues are found by eliminating possibilities. Codes are easiest and most accurate. Next is running down the list of verifying things are within expected parameters. This is why you'll want test gauges, multimeter..etc. I wouldn't purchase and replace any parts until verifying something is bad. (Most of us now have a box of various spare parts in the trunk thats grown over the years, makes some troubleshooting easier)

Man, after reading this topic, where the control module reads information from the clutch sensor

89 SHO Speed Control Diagnostics

I have been asked by another member to put something together for this, so I'll just do it for all to see. This addresses only the 89 but may pertain to later years. I do not have factory documentation for either 90 or 91 but I do have full documentation for 92-on. Much of the 92 system...

shoforum.com

Codes

33


172


176


214


528


542

I have one fuel injector disabled, you need to remove the manifold to connect it back, perhaps because of this 542