Dan Palmer
New Member
Has anyone had any problems with their motor running rich after a cam failure? Have put about 600 miles on motor since I had it repaired and I am at a loss.
running rich
- Thread starter Dan Palmer
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
99V8SHO
GasOilAndTires
Do you still have the stock airbox?
How is the weather in your area? I got a rich engine code the other day and I suspect it was the weather (constantly changing from warm to cold) but I also had my IAT sitting in the engine bay instead of inside the intake. Put the IAT in the intake and have not had the code since.
I don't know that this would have anything to do with the cams.
How is the weather in your area? I got a rich engine code the other day and I suspect it was the weather (constantly changing from warm to cold) but I also had my IAT sitting in the engine bay instead of inside the intake. Put the IAT in the intake and have not had the code since.
I don't know that this would have anything to do with the cams.
SHOwallen
New Member
i had the same problem I was getting running rich codes. I live in Minnesota and it gets down to the -22 sometimes here. My mechanic told me that I should run the stock air box in the winter, because when having your temp sensor outside the box, when you have a open cone filter. The engine will run cold, because its getting a cold temp reading even when the engine is warm. So from now on its K and N cone for the summer and factory box for the winter. thumb
Sounds like a bunch of BS to me. I run my filter in the fender year around. It has seen -20F before with no problems.
If the car is in fact running rich the O2s are telling it to. So either they are bad or there is a vacuum leak that is screwing up the A/F mixture. Another possibility is a bad FI maybe.
If the car is in fact running rich the O2s are telling it to. So either they are bad or there is a vacuum leak that is screwing up the A/F mixture. Another possibility is a bad FI maybe.
Mr. SHO
New Member
I don't know why you would run without an IAT in the intake airstream. I run a CAI with a cone filter in the bottom of the fender, but my IAT is still operational. It is located just upstream of the MAF. I would think it would be better to physically remove the IAT by unplugging the electrical lead than to just have it sitting in your engine bay, thinking your car is getting a hot air charge. Remember, the IAT is integral in adjusting your engine's timing advance. I don't see why anyone would want their car to run less timing advance with a cold air charge. shrug
SHOwallen, your mechanic is dead wrong.
I would stop taking my car there from now on if I were you.
SHOwallen, your mechanic is dead wrong.
I would stop taking my car there from now on if I were you.Dan Palmer
New Member
I am getting a code that is saying that I am running rich on bank 2(front half). It has been running ruff ever since I got the car back from Ford. My father-in-law was thinking it was from a vacuum line so that might have something to do with it. I am running a K&N cone with my IAT zip tied right next to the cone and have not had any pior problems with it. About the weather it has normal late winter for Fort Worth Texas. I am going to put back on the factory air box and see if that will help before I take it back to Ford and give them anymore of my money. Any other ideas would sure help.
spragers
New Member
I have been getting running rich codes on both banks since I bought my car used two summers ago. Ford said it was an O2 sensor, replaced one, didn't change a thing. A local garage, and Performance Plus in Madison, both said they could not find a cause of the problem, and that until it really has problems running, I shouldn't worry about it. Glad I bought my own code scanner, at least I can clear the codes whenever they pop up!
Craig Van Buren
New Member
I don't know if I am having the same problem or not , but after my cam faliure the "Service Enging Soon" light came one. Literaly the day after I got it back from the dealership. Can anyone tell me if it's this, or a faulty O2 sensor or anything else that sounds like this. Thanks in advance.
Craig
Craig
Mr. SHO
New Member
You are going to have to get your codes pulled before you can really narrow it down to a specific symptom. AutoZone scans codes for free in most areas.
HardCore Ford
New Member
If you had your camshafts welded, then most likely the battery was disconnected to prevent destroying the Power Train Control Module. This means all infomation stored in the PCM was erased and created a P1000 I/M readiness code. The PCM must now relearn all setting so it must complete the Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle and then the light will disappear. The new setting should solve your "Check Engine Light".
thumb
thumb
Craig Van Buren
New Member
It turns out it was what I was afraid of all along, the O2 sensor. Luckilly the warrenty covered that up to the $100 deductable. Well I guess that is better than $300+ they said it would have costed me. Does that sound right to everyone? $300+? bs Oh well what can I do about it now right?
<small>[ March 02, 2004, 10:15 PM: Message edited by: Craig Van Buren ]</small>
<small>[ March 02, 2004, 10:15 PM: Message edited by: Craig Van Buren ]</small>
Mr. SHO
New Member
The sensor itself is only $70 or so. I'm not sure how hard they are to get at, but $300 sounds steep to me. Maybe they replaced all 3? shrug
SHOwallen
New Member
Yea I thought the same thing I used to run a cold air intake in my ranger all winter and it ran fine, then when I had the bad o2 sensors in my SHO, my mechanic told me that I shouldn't be running the cold air intake in the winter. I've alsoo heard from other people who have cold air intakes that some run them in the winter and some don't. So I dont know who to belive. their must be some mechanics out their that are telling people not to run the CAI in the winter. Who knowsMr. SHO:
I don't know why you would run without an IAT in the intake airstream. I run a CAI with a cone filter in the bottom of the fender, but my IAT is still operational. It is located just upstream of the MAF. I would think it would be better to physically remove the IAT by unplugging the electrical lead than to just have it sitting in your engine bay, thinking your car is getting a hot air charge. Remember, the IAT is integral in adjusting your engine's timing advance. I don't see why anyone would want their car to run less timing advance with a cold air charge. shrug
SHOwallen, your mechanic is dead wrong.
But I want to put mine back in I love the sound when the secondaires open up.
99V8SHO
GasOilAndTires
If the O2 sensors were replaced and that did not do anything, then chances are you do have a problem. Like a sticking injector or something. How is your gas mileage?
Also, if you are in fact running rich like the codes are telling you, then that will lead to premature wear of your piston rings, causing you to start consuming oil prematurely. It could also lead the the failure of one or more of your catalytic convertors sometime down the road. I would have it checked out.
I got another code yesterday saying that I was running rich. This is the third one in two weeks, so I know something is not right. I will have my mechanic check it out and figure out whether or not it in fact is a bad O2 sensor or if I do have a sticky injector or something. I just dropped a brand new K&N cone in so maybe my MAF is fubarred. I dunno yet. But I would definately have it checked out if I were you. shrug
Mr. SHO
New Member
I think the only reason why you wouldn't run a CAI in the winter is b/c of the increased precipitation, road salt, etc. that the filter might be exposed to. I have a splash shield on my cone filter, and after several months of abuse, including encounters with several puddles over one foot deep eek! , the filter is none the worse for wear.
spragers
New Member
I just hate to take it back to the local dealership though, where myself and numerous friends and family members have been screwed royally. If I take it in and they tell me it's another O2 sensor I'm gonna scream...
99V8SHO
GasOilAndTires
Well then find a mechanic in your area. I have made excellent friends with my mechanic in the last few years, what with my 95 Olds Cutlass convertible (3.4L DOHC V6, a nightmare engine) and then the SHO. He has pretty much become a friend of the family. Find someone like that. They can cut you breaks and stuff and not blow smoke up your ****.
spragers
New Member
I already have a local garage that I trust (as far as you can trust a mechanic that isn't a personal friend lol), they've done a great job with everything I've thrown at them so far, but the source of this problem eluded them. Even the guys at Performance Plus - an SHO/Mustang specialty shop - couldnt find anything wrong when they welded my cams. When the SES light comes on (as it undoubtedly will), maybe I'll have Ford scan it once and see if they tell me something other than an O2 sensor.
For what it's worth, it seems that the SES light stays off from the time I reset the computer until a few runs up to redline, that's usually when the codes are first triggered. Does that sound like it narrows down the cause at all?
For what it's worth, it seems that the SES light stays off from the time I reset the computer until a few runs up to redline, that's usually when the codes are first triggered. Does that sound like it narrows down the cause at all?
99V8SHO
GasOilAndTires
That is exactly when mine seems to trigger. I think we are having the same problem. I did a 50-90 pull on the highway, dusted a riced out Accord. Anyways, I got off at my exit, then the CEL came on. rant
Similar threads
