running issues

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1992mtx

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I had the intake off and and turned on the fuel pump to see if any fuelse was leaking out of them and they seem fine and the tps I had checked resistance on it while slowly opening the throttle to watch for a drop I even had watched the output reading on the tweecer and didn't see any abnormalities
 

1992mtx

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Did another look at vacuum lines and bypassed the speed control portion all together and now I can rev it up to rev limiter but under a load it still starts spuddering at 4.5k
 

rubydist

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what codes are you getting now?
 

1992mtx

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So I hooked up a fuel gage and revved it to the rev limit psi at idle is 39-40 at 8k its 10psi picking up a new fuel pump tomorrow hopefully
 

1992mtx

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So I installed a new fuel pump it ran grate at first and now I'm throwing codes
Koeo
172
176
211

I don't understand this car
 

rubydist

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lean both banks and crank sensor issue.

did you disconnect battery when you put in the new pump? cause you should have had those lean codes from the old sick pump...

I would reset codes and drive is some more to see what pops up.
 

1992mtx

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yes i had the battery disconnected and i was getting onto a free way it came on at 4k and she was acting up worse than before but my fuel pressure has stabilized but something is leaning me way out causing it to miss or another sensor going out? when i first got the car it had bad O2 sensors that leaned out the car and would die at idle but no issue when driving
 

rubydist

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I would be looking for a big vacuum leak on the secondary circuit of the intake based on what you just said.
 

jimtash

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Agree. Your O2 sensors weren't leaning out the mixtures. They let you know there's a lean issue.
 

1992mtx

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I'm not sure where else I could have a vacuum leak I had replaced most of the lines I still have the charcoal canister hooked up but I'm not sure what supplys the heater vacuum supply or where it's hidden.
 

rubydist

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Agree. Your O2 sensors weren't leaning out the mixtures. They let you know there's a lean issue.

well, the oxy sensors can fail thinking that the mixture is always too rich, so they will have the pcm adjust the fuel trims leaner and leaner until the cel comes on because the fuel trims are outside the accepted range of adjustment. so in that case, the oxy sensors could cause a lean condition. however, since he recently replaced them, it is unlikely that is the case now. also, the oxy sensors typically fail the other way, thinking it is too lean, so they typically result in running too rich when they fail.
 

1992mtx

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in the past they leaned out my engine and i was running very rich for a while so i dont know if i could have fouled them out and its doing the same thing again just different rpm range but what is the resistance range on a tps i had checked it again today just because with it closed i was at .791 and wot it was at 4.something and it seemed like it would jump up and back down .2 with a hair movement
 

rubydist

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if it jumps up and down, it is sick and needs to be replaced. a sick tps will make the engine run rich or lean because the pcm prioritizes the tps above the mafs in what it "believes" for data. a bad tps has the potential to cause all of the issues you are struggling with.
 

1992mtx

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I'm picking one up tomorrow after work and I also have some o2 sensors on their way just to be safeatured I really just want it fixed so I can finish my turbo build I do appreciate all the help and different ideas as to what to check
 

1992mtx

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Update swapped in the New tps sensor no change did a cylinder balance test and got a 9 unplugged both o2 sensors and if barely on the throttle it would rev up is mashed it would choke out but didn't throw a code with them unplugged and running
 

rubydist

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sounds like you have wiring issues deeper than just the tps. I would be tempted to put in a different pcm at this point.
 

1992mtx

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Any recommendation oh now to get it out? The nut on the inside is broke free and the bolt just spins freely
 

rubydist

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take a dremel and cut off the head of the bolt on the wire harness connector. pull the connector off. when you remove the pcm, you can take the cover off and get at the nut. you will find the nut sits inside a socket in the connector, and the connector socket has broken. you should be able to re-glue the connector together to contain the nut again.
 

1992mtx

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I figured that was my only option I was hoping there be another way but I'll look into doing that this weekend but I'll just swap out pcms for now and fix the other one down the road
 
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