running issues

[1992mtx]

so i have a 92 with a lot of work done to it. it ran fine for a year or so than drove home in a rain storm and started running like crap like no power with acceleration almost like its missing but ideled fine i replaced my maf and no change i changed out the dis it ran normally for a few days than started to act up worse again with searching for an idle and stalling out repaced iac valve and didnt change drove to work was acting the same and when i was on my way home i have new symtoms hunting for the idle is 200-300 rpm incroments vs 1000+ incroments and power upon acceleration is intermitant on acceleration and rpms dont seem to drop as fast as they should. also in the beginning wot would cause it to miss and and now it dont as of the drive home.

list of work done most recent used dis, iac valve, 80mm maf ford ightning, ford racing#42 injectors, valve lash, adjusted timing belt, new plugs, wires,coil is 3 years old O2 sensors 3 years old, shosource fpr, 2 year old 255 lph fuel pump and possibly more im forgetting

 

[AREA 91]

Check the spark plug wells for water.

 

[1992mtx]

they are all dry i have been having the issue for 3 summers now

 

[1992mtx]

my origninal thought was i sucked to much water into the intake anf fryed my maf but when i finally got around to replacing it nothing had changed my old dis was cracked on one end was when i bought it the replacement one is also cracked but had been sealed i bought a 3rd one today but i did have a fuel issue where i lost all fuel pressure and wouldnt start last summer. i removed the inurtia switch and used a jumper wire and she fired up. i ended up wiring in a relay switch in the trunk directly for the fuel pump 30amp relay switch with an inline fuse also 30amp

 

[rubydist]

please tell us what codes are stored...

 

[1992mtx]

Just got mine back today I'll be checking on it tonight after work

 

[kevinspann]

Why do you have 42lb injectors and an 80mm MAF? How is the car tuned?


How much of a rain storm was it? Do you think the car sucked up water?

 

[1992mtx]

Tweecer rt and working towards boost only need the hot pipe

It was one of the rain storms you lose the car in front of you and I think it did suck water in but it should have been long gone by now

 

[1992mtx]

Pulled codes here's what I got
Koeo
511
211
216
217
Koer
521
536
538

 

[kevinspann]

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/code3.htm

Do you have another coil and DIS to try? I wonder if something has shorted out. Is the tweecer still seated well in the back of the PCM?

 

[1992mtx]

Yes it's seated well I have an extra coil or 2 I bought a dis from someone on here and he is shipping it tomorrow not sure when I will get it also this weekend if I get my way I may be able to try a different dis

 

[rubydist]

511 should just be due to the chip, so ignore it
211 is a crank sensor circuit failure, which will become fatal shortly
216 is coil 2 failure, which in my experience is 50/50 dis or coil problem
217 is coil 3 failure, again 50/50 whether its really a dis or coil issue
521 is generally operator error during the test, ps pressure did not change at proper time
536 is generally operator error during the test, brake pedal not pressed at proper time
538 is operator error, not goosing the engine enough at the right time

I would change crank sensor right away, and also the dis or coil, whichever you have easier access to.

 

[1992mtx]

I have a coil and soon another dis I will try that and code read again before I jump to tearing the engine apart but thanks for all the input

 

[jimtash]

Did you put heat sink paste on the back of the DIS? Heat will fry them really fast.

 

[1992mtx]

I do don't think I did on the new one but my intake does not get hot and the longest run was half an hour in 60 degree weather

 

[sperold]

I would start the process by getting a new crank position sensor. Although in theory, they should never fail, they do. And it rings true about the water issue, as it is right down there where the water is.
There is a write-up by Anonomus (at bottom) on how to do it, and I think the biggest issue is getting the bottom crank pulley off and then removing the bottom timing cover. I think the timing belt can stay in place. Have a look at the water pump weep hole while you are in there, as that can cause problems as well.

It is not a tribute to Yamaha to have this sensor buried in the front of the motor. Many manufacturers have these sensors externally mounted on the timing cover, and some have them on the flywheel where it is high and dry.

Here is a link that may be helpful: http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=127382

 

[1992mtx]

I did notice my front main is leaking and there is dirt and oil by the timing belt adjuster could this be the cause of my issues?

 

[sperold]

The little magnet-like affair (crank position sensor) has to recognize each tooth on a wheel as it goes by. Anything that gets in the way of that sensing is a problem. There could be crud down there that is causing you grief. The fact it is still running points to an issue like this, as it is not an electronic failure (which results in a no-start condition). The gap of the sensor is important too, so that could be checked.

 

[1992mtx]

I'm planning on tearing into it this weekend where could I find the right gap for it?

 

[rubydist]

the proper gap is .030" rather than try to hold a feeler gauge in there, I just use a matchbook cover - its the right thickness.

be aware that the magnet is in the bottom part of the crank sensor, so it will want to make the gap too large. this is trouble because the magnet can then hit the shutter wheel, which destroys the sensor.

also, the 2 little screws that hold on the sensor are non-magnetic stainless, so they want to fall off your screwdriver...