Rod Bearings???

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MOSHO92

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O.K. I Have been nearing the end of my SHO repairs to do list until this bearing scare thing. I have 120K on the car and just did the valves. My questions are....
What exactly is a rod bearing? If a rod bearing starts to go out will it tear up other parts with it? Is it a good idea to replace them as preventative maint.? Also, is it difficult? I can do most repairs but just want an idea of the hours this could take. Lastly, are the parts expensive/scarce?
I dont see/feel and signs of knock but want to finish all the repairs/maintinance before i get into the performance add ons.....
 

BeatDaSHO

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The rod bearings can be found at Napa for about 45 dollars for six of them. If the rod bearings decide to go, then ur crank will just seize and ur motor will be crap. You will end up having to replace a bunch of junk. It's better to replace the bearings before you start hearing noises. It's not too hard of a job unless your y-pipe has never been off of your car. These bolts become rusted and are a pain in the ass to get off. You will also need a torque wrench.

Greg
 

Bizzy

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Not a hard job to do, but time consuming. Getting into the area is 75% of the battle. (You have to drop the y-pipe, oil pan, oil pickup) A very good idea to replace if you intend on doing any mods to your car. Why prep to make a motor all that it can be and skimp along the way? In other words, do it. wink It's always better to catch problems before they're a problem.

Parts are not scarce, Part number CB-1435P. About $52.00 for a complete set (6) from napaonline.com

<small>[ May 18, 2003, 11:42 PM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>
 

MOSHO92

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Quote: "Why prep to make a motor all that it can be and skimp along the way?"....
Believe me...i do not skimp. My car is stock exept for a K&N cone filter and the tokico/eibach setup. All the money i get my grubby little hands on goes straight into repairs. I love this motor and will never let it go. I want the whole car to be better than when it rolled off the factory floor before i add any horses under the hood.

So i think i have been convinced to replace the bearings. If i have to take off the Y-pipe im going to wait untill i get a high flow one and do both at the same time.

Does anyone have a write up on doing the job, i'd hate to mess it up or forget something. Thanks
 

sdpatt

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It is also required that the starter be removed to allow the oil pan to be dropped. I did this job on my own car at 269,000 miles just after Christmas 2002. I should have done it sooner even though I didn't hear any rod knocking. I agree with the 120,000-180,000 mile replacement frequency. For most folks and cars, that means just one replacement. See my topic with step-by-step directions and pictures here.

<small>[ May 19, 2003, 07:54 AM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>
 

RTStabler51

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I think its stupid to do the rod bearings and NOT to do the mains.....not that much more work involved. Just my .02
 

Yamaha V6

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Ryan, with the additional ($80?) for the mains, and the observations I've had that the mains wear approx. 50% as fast as the rod bearings on the V6 SHOs, I offer it only as a convenience, not as a suggestion. On a new engine build, absolutely. on a bearing replacement in-car, I give the option. I stock them both anyway, so whatever the customer wants is ok with me. Agreed, labor-wise, you're staring at the main caps once you're in there anyway, but if you're at 100k & don't see yourself keeping the car to 200k, why spend the extra funds if the wear just isn't usually there?

My car? I'd replace them both anyway. Others are usually weighing in the cost more heavily than I do personally anyway, so I can understand their position completely.
 

sdpatt

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RTStabler51:
I think its stupid to do the rod bearings and NOT to do the mains.....not that much more work involved. Just my .02
You can think anything you want, but better watch out who you are calling stupid.
 

RTStabler51

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Whoa Scotty ;-) I didn't say anyone was stupid, I just think its a little weird to spend that time doing the rods, and NOT spending like Fred said $80ish bucks for another 1-2hrs worth of work, and more mindset that your stuff internally is good to go for a lot longer......

sdpatt:
RTStabler51:
I think its stupid to do the rod bearings and NOT to do the mains.....not that much more work involved. Just my .02
You can think anything you want, but better watch out who you are calling stupid.
 

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