Rod bearings themselves are not that hard. Replacing your exhaust ****** studs will be the chore. Since you are in Wisconsin, you will be lucky to get your y-pipe out without breaking the exhaust ****** studs. I was lucky to have the back 2 studs remain intact....but...still had to replace them because the threads were totally corroded off. do a search for exhaust ****** studs to find out more...Don't let a shop do the exhaust studs...they will want to remove the manifold...that's no no(more broken studs than you started with). And don't waste time and energy with heat...just drill those suckers out and retap.
This is the only thing that I would be weary about. If you get your y-pipe off without ruining your exhaust ****** studs...you are home free.
If you have to replace one stud...might as well replace all of them...with stainless.
Use the Black RTV that comes with the rod bearing kit from RCM automotive. Apply a smallish bead of silicone in the prescribed places mentioned in the tutorial here:
http://www.shophoenixproject.com/rodbearings/rodbearings.htm
Just dont gobb the RTV...when it hardens it will break loose and clog the oil pickup screen.
For cleaning the oilpan/pickup tube/inspection cover/oil baffle/windage tray; I used a kittly litter tray filled with about an inch of kerosene and a strong brush. Clean all the gunk off of the parts and hardware, run the kerosene through a paint strainer and reuse it to get the parts real clean. Then rince with Gasoline and let the oilpan air dry upside down - on a rag. Use acetone on a scotchbrite pad or paper towel to clean all the gasket mating surfaces to ensure a good seal.
Don't remove the oil level sensor unless it was leaking or you have a new one and a gasket...just cut the wire and use a bullet type connector to reconnect it during reassembly.
Hope this helps.
Follow the
http://www.shophoenixproject.com/rodbearings/rodbearings.htm tutorial and you will be fine...
Just make sure you have a reliable torque wrench before starting.