Rod Bearings at 422K

[cfamilyfix]

I'd like to do them but it just makes me nervous. One little mistake and there goes the engine.

Trust me ...do the bearings...no one was more nervous than me. 3k later and it never felt better. The peace of mind is worth it too.:sun:

 

[pitaSHO]

There are two kinds of collector cars when it comes to mileage. Ones with 10k miles and ones with a bazillion miles. This was actually one of the first cars I saw when I came on the forum eight years ago that got me inspired to join this mess. Keep rolling... :wave:

Chris K.

 

[sdpatt]

Here is a photo of the original bearings removed at 268K miles during the first connecting rod bearing swap. They were quite worn, but there was no "rod knock" evidenced. The engine, however, sounded much tighter after their replacement.

 

[Ocnaj]

I'll have to do that next oil change then. I am quite curious as to what they will look like.

 

[JRA2000TL]

This 95 I just picked up has 144k and no prior knowledge of a rod bearing change. It runs like a top but I am very nervous to drive it too many more miles before changing them. I'm also very nervous about swapping them out. I'm afraid I'll mess something up and it could be tragic. I bought a set for the 90 but I am going to use them for this car.

 

[sdpatt]

I updated my procedure for the bearing swap during this service and will post it when I get home this evening. The job is not so much difficult as it is ominous. I have notes on how to position the oil pan to clear the interferences during the R&R. Of greatest importance - ensure you have a GOOD torque wrench for tightening the rod end nuts. Stripping one of those requires replacing the rod bolt or nut. Most of us do not have spares laying around the garage. However, I will bet that there are many Forum followers that do.

Connecting Rod Bearing Replacement Procedure

Disassembly

1. Disconnect negative battery terminal
2. Remove dipstick and cover tube
3. Spray penetrating oil on exhaust manifold nuts
4. Drain oil
5. Reinstall oil pan drain plug and temporarily install new, dry oil filter
6. Unclip electrical connectors and remove O2 sensors
7. Remove manifold nuts and cat ****** bolts
8. Remove Y-pipe
9. Remove starter
10. Unclip electrical connector and remove oil level sensor from pan
11. Remove oil pan bolts and nuts
12. Remove oil pan (there are interferences) - loosen, but do not remove 10mm bolts on halfshaft carrier bearing, move pan towards rear of car and pull front edge past front motor mount
13. Remove 2 10mm nuts and remove oil pickup tube
14. Remove windage tray, note location of dipstick tube hole
15. Remove bearing girdle, note arrow on end at front of engine
    
    For Each Cylinder
16. Loosen the two, 13mm rod end cap nuts and unscrew a few turns
17. With the 13mm socket and extension still on the nut, tap on the socket extension with a hammer to separate the rod from the rod end
18. Remove the rod end cap, note orientation of oil hole in bearing, use smooth end of 5/32” drill bit in oil hole to separate from oil film on crank journal
19. Use non-scratching means to slide upper bearing halve so it can be removed (plastic spray can “straw” works well)
20. Lubricate new bearings with assembly **** or lithium grease only on the surface that contacts the crankshaft journal
21. Install new bearings with tabs oriented at the indentions in the rod and rod cap (towards front of car)
22. Gently install rod end cap to avoid scratching journal
23. Install nuts and torque to spec in two steps
    • 1st stage 22-26 lb-ft
    • 2nd stage 33-37 lb-ft
24. Rotate the crankshaft with hand pressure on the damper and crank counterweights to position the next two bearing caps
    
    Reinstall Components in Reverse Order of Steps 6-15, With Exceptions
25. Practice installing the oil pan to clear the interferences
26. Install new oil pan gasket rubber seals with small amount of provided silicone to secure seals in the groove
27. Apply silicone to pan ****** on sides, do not apply to rubber gasket zone
28. Install oil pan, press towards rear of car and push front edge past front motor mount, torque bolts and nuts 11-17 lb-ft
29. Tighten 10mm bolts on halfshaft carrier bearing
30. Install starter and attached cables
31. Apply new sealant on oil level sender, remnants of pan gasket silicone
32. Install new donut gasket on exhaust ******
33. Apply anti-seize on O2 sensors and exhaust manifold nuts (10mm x 1.50)
34. Remove new oil filter, fill with fresh oil and reinstall
35. Refill crankcase with oil
36. Reinstall dipstick
    
    Initial Engine Restart
37. Unplug DIS and crank until the red OIL pressure light extinguishes
38. Reconnect DIS and start engine
39. Set idle speed programming

 

[JRA2000TL]

Not to start a huge oil debate but until I change these bearings, should I just run 10W-30 or 10W-40 oil? I run 10W-40 in the 90 just in case. I think factory spec is 5W-30 but that seems awful thin, especially in this heat of the summer with uncertainty on prior bearing replacement. I mean will it make much difference what weight oil I put in it for the time being?

 

[sdpatt]

The 1991 factory owners manual shows 10W-30 for temperatures above 0F. That is not an opinion, just Ford's recommendation. That temperature range would cover all of North America except northern climates during the winter months. I live in a temperate climate in Dallas and have always used 10W-30 to the engine's long-lived happiness.

The 10W-40 grade was discontinued by some brands because of the premature deterioration of the viscosity index improvers (VIIs) that were required to attain that extended viscosity range. I would think that newer oil grades have limited this problem, but the 20-year old Ford SHO manual does not include the 10W-40 range.

 

[JRA2000TL]

The 1991 factory owners manual shows 10W-30 for temperatures above 0F. That is not an opinion, just Ford's recommendation. That temperature range would cover all of North America except northern climates during the winter months. I live in a temperate climate in Dallas and have always used 10W-30 to the engine's long-lived happiness.

The 10W-40 grade was discontinued by some brands because of the premature deterioration of the viscosity index improvers (VIIs) that were required to attain that extended viscosity range. I would think that newer oil grades have limited this problem, but the 20-year old Ford SHO manual does not include the 10W-40 range.

Thanks for the helpful info. I run Castrol in the 90 and will probably run either that or Motorcraft oil (it's now a synthetic blend) in the 95. Going to start using Motorcraft filters as well.

 

[K-Dawg]

I'm glad to see that you are still caring for your SHO. It seemed like you were considering giving up on her not too long ago.

I remember seeing pictures of this car a number of years and miles ago, but at the time, it was pristine, especially given the mileage. How about some current pictures of the interior and exterior?

 

[sdpatt]

I'm glad to see that you are still caring for your SHO. It seemed like you were considering giving up on her not too long ago.

I remember seeing pictures of this car a number of years and miles ago, but at the time, it was pristine, especially given the mileage. How about some current pictures of the interior and exterior?

I have been thinking about doing just that. I was contemplating showing her in my church's "Men's Steak Out [16 oz steaks] and Motor Show" this weekend and in preparation would have given her a new polish and wax job. She still looks great, with only the driver's seat leather bolsters needing a few baseball-type stitches to keep the interior intact. Let me see what I can do....

 

[sdpatt]

I posted the rod bearing replacement procedure back in page 1 of thie topic. I hope this helps give an idea of what is involved.

 

[shoon]

Couple picture of the rod bearings @ ~193,000 km (120,k miles)




Engine still clean @ 223,000 KM (138k ish miles)






Not sure what oil you guys are using to get that gross baked on brown coating.. but I've been running Castrol Syntec in my SHO since I've got it, and it seems to be keeping everything mint.

 

[kevinspann]

Thanks for posting the process to change the bearings. My car has nearly 294,000 miles on it, and I'm pretty sure they have never been changed.

Most of the "interferences" to removing the pan are out of the way due to a transmission swap, so it will be a little easier for me.

I'll post up my findings when I change them.

 

[n8rsk8r]

hopefully RCM keeps the parts in stock so we can enjoy our SHO's for years and years to come.

Looks good man! You were at the Dallas Autoshow right? I am damn sure that was you.. we ate lunch together

 

[sdpatt]

Since you asked...

I'm glad to see that you are still caring for your SHO. It seemed like you were considering giving up on her not too long ago.

I remember seeing pictures of this car a number of years and miles ago, but at the time, it was pristine, especially given the mileage. How about some current pictures of the interior and exterior?

In response to this request, I took some pictures on September 17, 2010. I have uploaded a set of 41 full resolution images to my Snapfish account. Please visit the topic with the link to those pictures and 20 reduced resolution pictures displayed inline here.