Rod Bearings again

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SHO--ripper

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Jay those bearings were bad. Something has to be wrong with the crank to eat those new bearings up that fast. NOTSOSLOW i think you misunderstood jason. He added 5 quarts to the car after the noise. So that means he had around 2 quarts in there :( . Good luck with the car and the engine is yours if you want it. thumb
 

shojuan

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OK, so you added 5 quarts of oil and 7 quarts came out. So you had roughly 2 quarts in there when the problems started (and problems you will have with only 2 quarts in there!)

I would get new rod bearings. Also you should probably get new main bearings. Save your next 1 gallon milk jug. You will want to cut a strip of plastic out of the curved portion to use as a tool while changing your main bearings. You might want to replace the fastening hardware this time around too.
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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TheNoachSHO:
If you had kept up with my pervious posts you'll see I had added 5 because there was NOTHING on the dipstick. So that means there was 1 1/2 to 2 quarts in the crank case.
Oh I have been following...

sleep And I still feel that you are not telling us the entire story. I mean, you say you replaced the oil (that I believe) but then you say after 3k there was only about 2 quarts in the motor. Also, you say it isnt leaking it OR burning it?? Moreover, are you saying that you didnt check the oil level before the 3k mark?

Something has got to give. Oil does not evaporate into thin air. That is a fact of life.

The things people do to cars amaizes me... headbang

...and ****** me off! cuss

<small>[ June 19, 2003, 01:00 AM: Message edited by: NotSoSlowSHO ]</small>
 

TheNoachSHO

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No I double check my endcaps from my previous post before I started the motor up. Evidentall I do have a leak somewhere but where I don't know. Last Saturday night I spend an hour or two in the upper range of the tach and toward the end of the night the car was skipping. I checked into things and it was definetely in need of plugs and wires but I cleaned out the plug wells and fixed the gap on my plugs and it fixed it. (seemed to anyway).

Reflecting back I was naive not to check the oil more often. My fault and will not be making the same mistake twice!!! After not having any leaks on the ground and not having anything smoking I made what I thought was a safe assumption that I was not losing more then a quart in 3k miles and in the past have been fine with a 3k change. Pleanty come out everytime I drained it.

One question still sticks, is the oil pressure sender SHO specific. I feel as if with how low my oil was that light should have been coming on, let alone my low oil light!

Whoever had this car last definetely did some hack jobs on parts, my freakin horn is crushed in my subframe for example.
 

JaySHOguy

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I still can't believe you went 3k without checking the oil doh .

My '89 goes through 1 quart in about 700-800 miles. It only drips a little, but my front main seal is leaking pretty bad. I don't get ANY odor, whatsoever.

Even on my new car, I went through 1 quart in the first 1500 miles....
 

Yamaha V6

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Pressure is different from level, which is why there's TWO senders. Your pressure light came on when you lost all oil to the pump / block.

If your oil level light didn't come on at 2 quarts low, ummm... replace the sender now? :)
 

sdpatt

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The oil pressure sender is quite generic and quite cheap and available from most auto supplies.
 

TheNoachSHO

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Well nothing beats a good old mechanical gauge anyway. Whatever I toss in the car is going to have a whole array of new sensors and will be monitered much more closely.

How naive I was. headbang cuss cry
 

Yamaha V6

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Yes, but throw a T in there anyway, so you retain the idiot light. That's what got your attention last time. I prefer having mine active still.

(PS - not saying anything about "idiot light"). :)
 

shojuan

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Exactly. I put a T in there when I installed the oil pressure gauge in my truck. I figured the idiot like would be useful for those times when this idiot isn't looking at the oil pressure gauge. It's the best of both worlds.

I once read some dude's trick of relocating the T away from the block. His concern was that the T put too much strain on the threads. Not sure I buy that. It's a cast iron block after all (maybe he had an Aluminum block. That would make more sense).

Anyways the trick was to use simple compression adapter plus nylon line (or use copper tubing if you like. I bought copper tubing for my truck and then I went ahead and just used the nylon line that came with the gauge. jpshakeh It's been fine though. Nylon is tough.) and route the nylon line to the firewall or any other convenient spot where you mount the T-fitting. Put a stress relief loop in the nylon line. Then just mount the gauge sender to the T-fitting on the firewall and do the same for the idiot light sender. Might have to extend the length of your idiot light sender, but that's simple stuff.
 

pete c

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Yamaha V6:
Yes, but throw a T in there anyway, so you retain the idiot light. That's what got your attention last time. I prefer having mine active still.

(PS - not saying anything about "idiot light"). :)
AMEN!!!!

I had a '79 supra with factor oil pressure gauge. I ran the damn thing low on coolant one day. The first thing I noticed was the pegged temp gauge. The second thing I noticed was a pegged (in wrong direction oil pressure light). 2, that's right 2 engine rebuilds later (don't block the oil passages when installing new bearings!!!!!) all was well.
 
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