Questions about rod bearings

[jonmon6691]

So after exhausting other diagnostic options, I have decided to break down and do the rod bearings. The reason I was reluctant is b/c I have a total of like 2 1/2 hours worth of experience working on a car. Because of this, I have run into some snags that I was hoping someone could help me with. The first is where to get the rod bearings. I have heard that the "RCM" kit is the way to go, but I have never heard of RCM and a Google search doesn't turn up anything useful. And my other question has to do with one of the two bolts that is parallel to the ground that connects the oil pan to the transmission. The bolt closest to the front of the car has started to strip and I don't know what to do about it. I have tried wedging another wrench behind the socket wrench but it wasn't working well.

 

[jonmon6691]

Never mind the RCM part, I found it. RCM sounds like a big company, so I didn't bother to check anything other than the first page of Google.

 

[revhardSHO]

Check out the Northwest SHO club. I would get in touch with SHO source of Battleground, WA and see if they can help you out. You have valuable SHO resources not more than a few hours away.

 

[jonmon6691]

I'll do that if I really get stuck, but I was wondering if anyone had any ideas, I soaked the bolt in PB Blaster last night, and I'll spray it again tonight, but is there any other tricks to keeping it from striping?

 

[AREA 91]

I'll do that if I really get stuck, but I was wondering if anyone had any ideas, I soaked the bolt in PB Blaster last night, and I'll spray it again tonight, but is there any other tricks to keeping it from striping?

Is the head of the bolt stripped, or the threads?

Most people over torque the bolts resulting in them being stripped.\

I have also seen a few SHO's where these bolts aren't even there.

 

[e_clouser]

There are supposed to be bolts there???? oh wait, I had a 3.2 oil pan in my MTX.....


As for getting the bolt out, if it turns, try a pry bar behind the head of the bolt, or start with a screw driver. If all else fails drill it out or grind the head off.

Good Luck

 

[jonmon6691]

The head is striping, the bolt hasn't even turned yet. Drilling it out will be a problem because there is only enough room behind the bolt for a socket wrench.

Also, the low oil level sensor wire came out of the sensor itself. Is this supposed to happen?

 

[rubydist]

The low oil sensor has a round slip-fit connector pin on the end that just slips into the housing - when you put it back together, just slip it back in there.

On the bolt problem - sounds like you need a 6-point socket/box end rather than a 12 point. Maybe an excuse to spend some quality time at Sears....

 

[e_clouser]

The head is striping, the bolt hasn't even turned yet. Drilling it out will be a problem because there is only enough room behind the bolt for a socket wrench.

Also, the low oil level sensor wire came out of the sensor itself. Is this supposed to happen?

I say try a six point socket also, depending on how bad it is starting to strip. I have also had luck using a real thin film of metal, like metal duct tape over the head and pounding the socket or wrench on with a hammer. I however been told not to do this.

On the wire, sounds right.

 

[shobote]

Sears carries some new sockets that are better than box end; specifically designed to get stripped bolt heads off, but I forget what the name of the sockets are; am sure they can point you in the right direction at the store.

 

[jonmon6691]

Ya, I'm gathering parts as I go along. I still need a couple of sizes and U-joints to get to the y-pipe bolts. I think I'll get the sizes I use most from sears, but I have a fairly good set of 1/2 dirve metric sockets. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[itwonder]

Definitely use a six point socket on it if you can fit one in there. Be sure you are turning the correct direction.....lefty loosey...righty tighty. It's curious that the head would be stripping because the bolt threads into aluminum, which is soft.

 

[rubydist]

Yeah, but its a little difficult to tell if you have the wrench on straight on those bolt heads, and they often are covered with filth, so its easy to take the corners off the head if you aren't careful.

 

[jonmon6691]

OK, I got that bolt, and all of the others off, but now I still can't make the oil pan move even a little bit (I tried a pry bar between it and the sub frame). I can see rtv spilling out the edge, is it possible that it would be glued to the block with rtv?

 

[rubydist]

Yes, its glued w/ rtv - the seals only run at the front and rear end of the pan, the rest is just rtv'd on. Just make sure you have all the bolts off before you pry on it- normally it doesn't take that much to get it to pop loose.

 

[Devin]

 

[jonmon6691]

I know I got all the bolts, even the ones under the "wings." Does it help any if I warm it up?

 

[Devin]

You can try lightly tapping it with a rubber mallet at the corners to loosen it a bit.

 

[whiteguy3]

Just take your time on everything. Especially since you said you don't have that much experience under the hood.

Second guess yourself a lot, that will help in making sure things are done right the first time. You don't want to get the oil pan on an then find out that the extra bolt you had in your pocket was for the rod cap!!! DOH...

 

[jonmon6691]

I got the oil pan off but using a pry bar between the "wing" and the half-shaft. It didn't need as much force as I thought. And the phoenix project how-to way over states the difficulty of removing the oil pan, once I had the rtv loose, it only took 2-3 minuets to get it around the strainer and cv joint.

The question I have now is, how do I get the rod cap off? I wanted to check the infamous cylinder 5 while I am still waiting for the rod bearing kit, so I got the nuts off easily enough, but I cant get the cap to budge. I tried tapping it with a piece of soft wood and I can see it rocking back and forth a tiny bit but it never really goes anywhere. I don't want to stick anything in the gap between the cap and the rod and pry it apart.