Questions about a new buy

[chase7687]

I wasnt sure where to post this so please forgive me if it's not in the right place.
My question is just generally what problems are rampant with these cars? What should I loke for when buying one? I recently found a 94 3.0 that looks fairly straight. It needs the sunroof switch replaced and the check engine light is on because the exhaust is straight piped according to the guy. Also he says the ABS light is on because one of a wheel sensor needs replacing. He says he'll take $2000. What say yall?

 

[SHOCH]

"fairly straight"
It's up to you if you want to believe someone telling you why the dash is lit up like a pinball machine. Yes his reasons may be legit. You didn't comment on how it drove.
Among the 1000 things to look for are scuff marks on intake from a bad motor mount letting the engine rise and rub the bottom of the hood liner. Open the back doors and check for rust through in dogleg area where seat meets rockers. Check headliner for watermarks and check the trunk for dead hookers.

 

[chase7687]

Yeah the lit up dash is the only thing thats worrying me

 

[rubydist]

I would move along.

the abs will flash a two-digit code telling you what the issue is, if you report that we can tell you if it is a minor issue or a major issue.

the check engine light will not be on from a straight-piped exhaust, it is on for some other reason that might be simple (replace oxy sensors) or some serious reason (many to choose from).

common issues are oil leaks from the valve covers (gaskets are $100) and from the front (right) of the engine (seals are about $40, but labor is many hours)

of course he'll take $2k, but its not worth that much because it may take another $2k to get it right. the rule of thumb on these cars is that if you cannot do the labor yourself, you cannot afford the car because its the labor to fix stuff that is expensive and techs who know how to work on them are rare and becoming extinct.

 

[sperold]

Where I live, if the car cannot pass the emission test or the mechanical fitness inspection, it cannot be registered in your name. It makes these decisions so much easier.
Here, no one would ask $2000.00 for a car unless it has the e-test and safety certificates.

 

[zoomlater]

If the seller lets you pull engine codes, you could get an idea why the engine light is on. If you don't have an OBD I code reader, you can use a paper clip to jump the test port together. If you want to pursue this, there is a procedure on this forum that will tell you how to do it. You could then report back here what the codes are or look it up using the search function.

 

[sperold]

Post #2 gives you 2 "how-to's" on the OBD I codes that can be read using the cars flashing check engine light (no scan tool). Once you have the flashes recorded, you can check the list that explains what that flashing code means.
Good luck.
http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?threads/a-few-codes.129751/

 

[chase7687]

He said the check engine lights on because the catalytic converter was removed or some jive like that??????

 

[chase7687]

Says the shifter is a little notchey too

 

[luigisho]

You have to really look it over or have it looked over to see if it's worth it to you. Cars will only get so cheap but they will also cost a bit to repair/maintain. I wouldn't recommend a GenI or II as a daily driver unless it was incredibly maintained or had lower mileage. As a second car or project that's different.

 

[sperold]

He is not lying when he says the shifter is a little notchey, they all are.

And removing the catalytic converters may have drew attention to the O2 sensors that are in the general vicinity, and one of them may have suffered.

And it may be a wheel sensor that is the issue with the ABS. If the tone ring is covered in grease from a bad CV axle, then it will throw a code, but the general rule is.... if the rings and sensors are there, and not covered in something, they usually work. And that can be determined by just looking at them.

I have a GenI as a daily driver, and I am no genius, so it can be done. It just involves a lot of maintenance and time, and a lifetime commitment, or at least something close to it.

Your big issue is - how is the clutch? It is $500.00 labour and lots of expensive parts to put in a new one, so that is critical.

Good luck. Check what nice ones are going for on this forum and subtract away the costs of doing two 60ks and clutches, and you will have something to think about.

 

[chase7687]

The car is located 5 hours away so it would be on a gut shot if I decide to make the trip. I really wish it was closer but the guy says he uses it as a daily driver so that to me says it's fairly reliable. It looks super clean inside out

 

[chase7687]

 

[chase7687]

 

[rubydist]

that looks nice. it would help us if we knew what state it is located in, because rust is an issue under these cars in the rust belt.

since it is 5 hours away, have him pull the codes and tell you what the numbers are. or better yet, have him shoot a video of the cel flashing out the codes so you can see for yourself what they are. then you will have a much better idea of what is really going on. best bet is to post a video of the codes flashing so we can all see it.

 

[sperold]

^^^^^^^ Great advice
I note there is no right hand view of the car showing the dreaded fuel door / rear wheel opening area.
It does look good.
If you go in another car with 2 people and bring that one back, it will cost $270.00 in fuel alone, so you might want to arrange a half-way meeting spot.
A lot depends on the clutch condition.
If you decide to go, drive a SHO before you do so that you have a better chance of correctly assessing how this one drives.
Where are you located?
I drove 300 miles to see my first SHO, but when I eventually bought it, it was delivered over half way.
If you are in a remote area (like me), then you have to go the extra mile to find one of these things.
Be prepared to talk about the price as well. As I have said many times, I got $2300.00 for my payout on my 95, and the appraiser agreed the car was in better than great condition.

 

[luigisho]

I agree with fuel door rust spot mentioned above. So the expensive stuff is how does the tranny really shift? Does the ac work? How many miles on it?

Is it the angle or are the fog lights missing? Maintenance history?

 

[chase7687]

 

[chase7687]

I just now realized the fogs are missing. See this is why I posted this thread. It takes more than one view point to see the total picture. Says the last owner replaced the suspension and brakes.

 

[chase7687]

I found this white one a bit closer to me that's in much better shape with less miles... The only thing is that it's doubke the price.