New member 2000 Continental

[CBHSContinental]

Doesn't the Continental have the 4.6L V8? The V8 SHO has a 3.9L V8. That does make me wonder though how possible it would be then to squeeze a 4.6L into a 1996-1999 SHO....

-Rod

That’s correct. As long as you use the AX4N transmission. I don’t think you do. I think you use duratech. It’s a different bell housing.

 

[CBHSContinental]

I think the Taurus uses the AX4N but the SHO uses a different one. I’m not sure.

 

[luigisho]

Doesn't the Continental have the 4.6L V8? The V8 SHO has a 3.9L V8. That does make me wonder though how possible it would be then to squeeze a 4.6L into a 1996-1999 SHO....

-Rod

The v8 SHO is 3.4L

 

[CBHSContinental]

I meant to say that the lincoln is a v8 not that is uses the same v8. The lincoln is the intech v8 mated to an AX4N automatic. The car is a 1 off platform but the front suspension is similar from what I understand. The engine and trans in the lincoln weighs about 675lbs. Some models of the SHO used the AX4N also so the engine and trans combo for the SHO would be around 625lbs. So, if I dont want to rabbit hole down custom built struts and custom springs, then I may be able to use SHO suspension parts. Theres more aftermarket support for the SHO than there is for the Conti.

Just ordered a tint kit and new grill. Stopping at a junk yard to yeet some struts from a SHO tomorrow. These will only be for mock up.

 

[ScotSHO]

I meant to say that the lincoln is a v8 not that is uses the same v8. The lincoln is the intech v8 mated to an AX4N automatic. The car is a 1 off platform but the front suspension is similar from what I understand. The engine and trans in the lincoln weighs about 675lbs. Some models of the SHO used the AX4N also so the engine and trans combo for the SHO would be around 625lbs. So, if I dont want to rabbit hole down custom built struts and custom springs, then I may be able to use SHO suspension parts. Theres more aftermarket support for the SHO than there is for the Conti.

Just ordered a tint kit and new grill. Stopping at a junk yard to yeet some struts from a SHO tomorrow. These will only be for mock up.

https://www.taurusclub.com/posts/1606409/

 

[CBHSContinental]

https://www.taurusclub.com/posts/1606409/

This is exactly what I came here for. Thank you, I will dive in here and see what the out comes are.

 

[CBHSContinental]

“If you install the SARC struts on the standard taurus they will be hard all the time. The struts are pretty stiff. You can use aftermarket springs with the SARC. Most applications that used aftermarket springs, like SHO Shop Linears, a wire and switch was installed in the fuse box so you can have the struts full hard all the time. I pulled my fuse as an experiment on my 1998 SHO but decided that letting the car adjust the struts make for a better ride and the struts went hard very quickly when the car is pushed. The V8 SHO with SS linear springs and struts set to hard with sticky tires handled very well on the street and track.”

This is what I was hoping for. So, I can use after market linear springs and set the struts to hard. Thank you

 

[luigisho]

What struts are you referring to? The oem SARC I thought were unobtanium.

 

[CBHSContinental]

That’s correct but I’m actually referring to the information.

There has to be a way to rebuild the stock strut. If that can happen then putting in a linear spring with a lower ride height and setting the stiffness to hard, would likely give me the result I’m after.

Or

I can modify the front suspension to accept aftermarket SHO coil overs

That thread was very helpful and the other information surrounding the Continental on that forum was helpful.

 

[SHOrod]

The v8 SHO is 3.4L

D'oh! I must have been thinking of my former Lincoln LS.

-Rod

 

[CBHSContinental]

I’m doing the spark plugs and battery now.





I’ve got some new plugs around here. Going To Test The Coils And See If Any Need Replaced.

 

[CBHSContinental]

The ignition coils all failed resistance spec. 6 come close but still failed.

I also got a new valve cover gasket set because 5-6 plugs had a lot of semi-fresh oil on them. Oil that was pooling around the top of the plug.

Headed home from O’Reilly with the parts. I’ll post pics of what’s behind the valve covers.

 

[CBHSContinental]

Got her put back together with fresh plugs and coils. Didn’t do the valve cover gaskets yet. Maybe next week.

Window tint is in next week. %5 ceramic. Should look killer

 

[Qshiplvr]

This is sad, you're emotionally attached to me using a software tool to analyze bulk information.

Any way, Let's start with an easy mod. %5 window tint & blacked out head lights. I'll post pics when that's done.

Maintenance will include spark plugs and a test on the coils and wires. The guy understands this platform pretty well and he thinks we can find a coil-over with linear spring rates. I am thinking about getting the original strut rebuilt to meet the spec of a custom spring. I am looking for a shop that would help calculate the spring rate While providing a 1.5" drop. I think the stock strut can be rebuilt internally to match the new spring specs. John is my tech and I think he can help install an aftermarket manually controlled air suspension for the rear. This set up should give excellent handling while maintaining some of the Lincolns comfort.

I think I'm going to go with 17" x 10" up front. I will maintain a thick sidewall but this should increase the patch while being easy on the AX4N transmission.

I'm locating a an additional AX4N and I am going to build it with some guidance from some friends in the industry. I'm going to attempt to adjust the gear ratios. I'm going from 3.56 gears to 3.96. Also installing a shift kit to help with solid shifts and I'm going to start looking at torque converters. This thing is going to be so cool. You'll see

You may want to tap Doug Lewis and how he builds his "Road Ripper" version of AX4N for the Gen3 SHO. That's about as maximum build that I'm aware of.

 

[CBHSContinental]

Doug is who I’m talking to mainly on this build. Glad to hear another referral.

Got the valve cover gaskets replaced. Not an easy job but I have a manual that was really helpful. I also replaced the serpentine belt and alternator while I was in there.

I spent a ton of time on a 1991 Ford e150, and I’m surprised to see how much has carried over. The clips they use, the plugs for electrical and even the way the eec-iv connects vs the eec-v.

So I bought the car for $2500,
I’ve put another $2,000 in it so far in DMV fees, tires, brakes, alternator, valve cover gasket, coils, plugs and a transmission service.

Looking forward to modifying it instead of maintenance work.

 

[CBHSContinental]

Got her buttoned up this morning.

Is there a trick to installing the anti roll bar that goes from strut mount to strut mount. I can’t seem to get it back in place.

 

[ScotSHO]

Got her buttoned up this morning.

Is there a trick to installing the anti roll bar that goes from strut mount to strut mount. I can’t seem to get it back in place.

Not sure what you mean, is it too long? Maybe it was installed with the front end of the car in the air to add extra force to the struts?

 

[CBHSContinental]

Not sure what you mean, is it too long? Maybe it was installed with the front end of the car in the air to add extra force to the struts?

I'm going to jack under the drivers side front to see if that helps align it. Also, I think the alternator is bad out of the box.

 

[CBHSContinental]

Ok, I replaced the alternator and battery but the battery isn't charging. The alternator mounts at 4 points from my understanding. Two bolts on the bottom behind the serpentine belt, and two bolts on the top bracket that mounts to the intake manifold. When I had wrapped it up this morning, my battery was dead by mid day. I lifted the hood and discovered that the cam sensor on the front bank wasn't plugged in and alternator wasn't mounted to the bracket.

I plugged in the cam sensor and it removed one of the codes on the dash (traction control / off). I bolted the alternator to the bracket and I'm charging the battery. My question is:

1- Would the alternator need to mount to the top bracket in order to ground correctly? The bottom bolts sink directly into the intake manifold I believe.

2- The terminal wire that connects the alternator to the battery had an extremely corroded mounting fastener. The cable seems fine but bracket tab thingy was rusted through. Does this mean my terminal cable could be bad?

3- If I replaced the valve cover gaskets, alternator, battery, coils, plugs and serpentine belt, what is a potential cause for the battery to not charge?

Thank you

 

[ScotSHO]

I've had bad rebuilt alternators out of the box. Quality control is non-existent in the rebuild world. As much as it hurts, yank it & exchange that one before spending too much time troubleshooting. I think Autozone can still bench test them?