P0016- Not Cam Position Sensor

[GrolarBear]

My 2012 SHO with 106K miles on it started throwing codes about 3K miles ago.

First a bunch of misfires, a cam position sensor (P0016), and a handful of others (at the time it just suddenly acted very unhappy and set 11 different codes, all misfire and position sensor related). Swapped new spark plugs and they all went away.

I started getting a ticking/rattle at startup, enough that my non-car guy neighbors noticed it. it only did it for about a second or 2.

It started setting P0016 (cam position sensor) codes again, I'd re-set them and they would go away for about 10 startups and then come back, but eventually, they would come back sooner where now if I re-set it I get one or 2 cycles and it's back.

I tested the cam position sensor (resistance across the coil and it was generating a signal when you moved a metal object past it).

Replaced the sensor anyway (it's right on top and it still SUCKS to get to)- no code for about 5 start/stop cycles and then set the P0016 again.

I've done some digging and came across the variable camshaft timing (VCT) problems that these engines have. On a whim, I tried 1/2 a quart of Lucas oil additive (the synth version) and the ticking/rattle at startup went away, and the code went away for about 3 cycles.

The rattle/tick is still gone, but the code resets in 1-2 start-stop cycles.

I know that there have been some recalls for the VCTs, looks like Ford will cover HALF the cost of the repair on SOME F150s. Ford doesn't seem to agree on what the problem is (north and south regions in the US are publishing a different repair procedure, and there is no consensus if replacing the VCT is a permanent fix or if it will come back, there is no consensus if the current VCTs are redesigned or the same, and there were excessive wear timing chain TSBs before this that had the same symptoms, and the VCT swap calls for a new timing chain assembly swap with it). The only thing that is consistent is that the dealer techs are not happy about this one, on the trucks the procedure calls for lifting the body off the frame, and in the cars, it calls for dropping the drivetrain out of the car.

 

[Majestic]

Stretched timing chain.

 

[GrolarBear]

So I'm looking for:

- what else should I check/are there other possibilities?
- has anyone had a similar problem? What was it? How did you fix it?
- if it is the VCTs can the repair be done in the car without a lift?
- anything else that will help

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Stretched Timing Chain

 

[Zpak]

Unfortunately, this. ^^^

 

[ridered74]

Stretched timing chain. Replace water pump at same time.

 

[luigisho]

So I'm looking for:

- what else should I check/are there other possibilities?
- has anyone had a similar problem? What was it? How did you fix it?
- if it is the VCTs can the repair be done in the car without a lift?
- anything else that will help

Look at this thread post 6 timing set replaced with motor in car. same obvoiusly with stuff on the heads like cam phasers, solenoids for var cam timing etc

Water pump and timing chain

Does anyone have a parts list to change the timing chain and water pump in a 2013? Noticed a small puddle under the car in the garage. I put it up on a lift and it became obvious quickly that it was from that location. I have a place that will do the labor for $600.00 if I get the parts. Just...

shoforum.com

 

[Mazuroo]

View attachment 85865

My 2012 SHO with 106K miles on it started throwing codes about 3K miles ago.

First a bunch of misfires, a cam position sensor (P0016), and a handful of others (at the time it just suddenly acted very unhappy and set 11 different codes, all misfire and position sensor related). Swapped new spark plugs and they all went away.

I started getting a ticking/rattle at startup, enough that my non-car guy neighbors noticed it. it only did it for about a second or 2.

It started setting P0016 (cam position sensor) codes again, I'd re-set them and they would go away for about 10 startups and then come back, but eventually, they would come back sooner where now if I re-set it I get one or 2 cycles and it's back.

I tested the cam position sensor (resistance across the coil and it was generating a signal when you moved a metal object past it).

Replaced the sensor anyway (it's right on top and it still SUCKS to get to)- no code for about 5 start/stop cycles and then set the P0016 again.

I've done some digging and came across the variable camshaft timing (VCT) problems that these engines have. On a whim, I tried 1/2 a quart of Lucas oil additive (the synth version) and the ticking/rattle at startup went away, and the code went away for about 3 cycles.

The rattle/tick is still gone, but the code resets in 1-2 start-stop cycles.

I know that there have been some recalls for the VCTs, looks like Ford will cover HALF the cost of the repair on SOME F150s. Ford doesn't seem to agree on what the problem is (north and south regions in the US are publishing a different repair procedure, and there is no consensus if replacing the VCT is a permanent fix or if it will come back, there is no consensus if the current VCTs are redesigned or the same, and there were excessive wear timing chain TSBs before this that had the same symptoms, and the VCT swap calls for a new timing chain assembly swap with it). The only thing that is consistent is that the dealer techs are not happy about this one, on the trucks the procedure calls for lifting the body off the frame, and in the cars, it calls for dropping the drivetrain out of the car.

Hmmm. One started doing this in the 90s but I had the timing chain and water pump replaced around 75k. Any thoughts? I need another 30k miles out of my red rocket ship! I've seen postings about a bad wiring harness? No loss of power or reduced mpg. She's been great but it'll be hard to justify shoving another few grand in it.

 

[Dpangbur]

Same story with my ‘13 MKS at 106k. I spent weeks in denial before I pulled a valve cover to inspect the VCT actuator (part of my denial). But I could almost pull the timing chain off the cam gear.

I did the job myself and regretted doing it with the engine still in the car. It would have been much smarter to drop the engine. I replaced everything from “the list” but all the chain guides were like new. But with all the time involved I just threw the extra few hundred in parts so I would never have to go in there again (phasers, solenoid actuators, etc). I also replaced the six ring seals (3x each) where the actuator seals inside the phaser b/c they seemed crispy.

Yes do the water pump too - and be ready for a gallon of coolant to join the oil in the pan when the water pump is freed. And know that there are a hundred pockets on the inside of the pan that will hold said coolant.

All in was under $2k in parts. I am lucky to have one of the big dealers with the best online pricing local so I could save on shipping. This saved me a few hundred dollars.

Good luck.


2013 MKS ecoboost
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