2017 PI - phasers/timing set/water pump install with parts list

[BradM]

Just FYI. I've had the start-up rattle about every 10th cold start so it was getting time to do this before winter sets in. I also resealed the oil pan (was weeping). Someone had the timing cover and oil pan off before (police maintenance) but I couldn't figure out what they did so I did it all. The parts list and a few things I learned are below.

Cloyes has a nice short video on the timing set install but the torque specs for the phasers and exhaust cam gears are wrong for our engines. Per the Ford Service Manual, the process is below-

Install the new VCT bolt and the exhaust camshaft bolt and the original washer. Tighten in 4 stages.
Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Loosen one full turn.
Stage 3: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Stage 4: Tighten 90 degrees.

All 6 spark plug tube seals leaked. I did lubricate them on install but it seems like you have to push each seal further down afterwards. Rookie mistake. I used a 30mm 12 point chrome (thin wall) socket. The Fel-Pro valve cover gasket set came with new VCT oil rings but I didn't even open the box until it was too late (sigh). There are two versions of the harmonic balancer bolt so do your homework. If you're going to reseal the oil pan, you'll need to prop the engine somewhere else. I had removed the DPs so I placed a piece of wood between the Bank 1 turbo exhaust outlet and the K-member. Per the Ford Manual, I used the 3M Roloc Bristle Disc Grade 120 Size 2 for cleaning the surfaces. Makes a mess but since I had the oil pan off, I was able to wash down the front of the engine with brake clean.

RH VCT phaser and bolt BA5Z-6A257-E
LH VCT phaser and bolt BA5Z-6A257-D
Valve cover gasket set FEL-PRO VS50884R (comes with VCT oil rings)
Crankshaft seal XW4Z-6700-AA
Harmonic balancer bolt HL3Z-6A340-A (changed mid-year 2016)
Water pump DG1Z-8501-D
Exhaust cam gear bolts 7T4Z‐6279‐BA
Cloyes timing chain and guides 9-0738SBX
Cam tool 303-1248
Motorcraft RTV TA357

 

[BradM]

UPDATE.

I took apart a cam phaser to understand why they rattle. See below.

This is the cam phaser in the unlocked position. The blue arrow shows the component that advances/retards the cam (rotates left and right). This movement is controlled by injecting/releasing oil in each of the yellow arrow chambers. The red arrow shows where the locking pin is located. In the run position, it is held unlocked by oil pressure.



This picture shows where the locking pin is supposed to sit during startup.



This picture shows the hole where the locking pins goes during startup.



This picture shows the cam phaser in the locked position. The spring pushes the pin into the locking hole during startup. When enough oil pressure is seen in the two chambers, the pin is forced out of the locking hole. The rattle occurs when the locking pin does not engage and there is not yet enough oil pressure in the chambers to center the cam phaser. Thus, the blue component is allowed to bang back and forth between the walls of the oil chambers. I did not see anything obvious as to why mine were starting to fail. The spring is the only thing pushing the pin in. Oil pressure is not used to lock it, only to unlock it. There is plenty of tolerance between the pin and the locking hole and I show very little wear around the hole (I've seen pictures of pretty serious wear on some phasers). The design of our phasers has not changed- same part number and suffix. My car only has 109k miles but has 9200 idle hours. The engine was very clean with no sludge found anywhere.

 

[Tbird6]

Hard to imagine 9200 hours of idle. That's a bunch!
.
.
.

 

[BradM]

It had 98k miles when I bought it. The turbo seals were shot but the engine does not burn any oil, has great oil pressure, and no sludge. A testament to the 3.5 and regular maintenance.