Need link for rod bearing kit
- Thread starter dohcsable
- Start date
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K-Dawg
SHO Member
RCM is the only one I know of that sells a the bearings and seals together.
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Actually, it's like 1-3/16" in length and has an integral washer.
Obsolete from Ford, but their clutch kits still include the pressure plate bolts.
SHO Nut sells a pressure plate bolt/washer set - actually they're capscrews with lockwashers. His kit is ~$5 but you also have to figure-in shipping.
The bolt is an M8 x 1.25mm x 30mm - get grade 8 (OEM is either metric 9.8 or 10.9).
So, finally starting to getting around to getting it all done?
Obsolete from Ford, but their clutch kits still include the pressure plate bolts.
SHO Nut sells a pressure plate bolt/washer set - actually they're capscrews with lockwashers. His kit is ~$5 but you also have to figure-in shipping.
The bolt is an M8 x 1.25mm x 30mm - get grade 8 (OEM is either metric 9.8 or 10.9).
So, finally starting to getting around to getting it all done?
yea, getting ready to get her started....I need it done and broken in by may
I have a set of bolts that were included with the spec flywheel I got from james, but they are only the length of the thickness of the pressure plate...
If shonut has them, can anyone find me a link....I'm to dumb to navigate thier site in what I'm looking for.
Andrew
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Oh come-on . . . it's not that difficult!
On the main page, click on the link titled "Clutch" . . . ,
. . . third item below the subsection "Individual Clutch Wear Parts".
On the main page, click on the link titled "Clutch" . . . ,
. . . third item below the subsection "Individual Clutch Wear Parts".
ok, checking now.....once thats done, its time to decide if I'm going out the top or out the bottom....I'm kinda scared to get into subframe issues
Andrew
Storm-Chaser
New Member
It's not a big deal pulling the subframe.
If you're worried about finding something bad, I think you would want to know it's there and get the problem fixed, versus driving around with a false sense of security.
In my opinion you're more likely to damage something pulling the engine and transmission (eg. snag a harness, hose, power steering reservoir, etc.), than dropping the subframe and transmission. In the former you're going to have to disconnect a lot of engine related components; the latter the suspension related components. The main advantage of pulling, is that a 60K is much easier to do out-of-car, if you plan on doing it.
I was running parts/tools errands for Matt (LOUDSHO92) when they were physically pulling his engine at the convention, but he and a few others here can outline the potential problems with out-the-top procedure.
If you're worried about finding something bad, I think you would want to know it's there and get the problem fixed, versus driving around with a false sense of security.
In my opinion you're more likely to damage something pulling the engine and transmission (eg. snag a harness, hose, power steering reservoir, etc.), than dropping the subframe and transmission. In the former you're going to have to disconnect a lot of engine related components; the latter the suspension related components. The main advantage of pulling, is that a 60K is much easier to do out-of-car, if you plan on doing it.
I was running parts/tools errands for Matt (LOUDSHO92) when they were physically pulling his engine at the convention, but he and a few others here can outline the potential problems with out-the-top procedure.
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Go to the salvage yard. You can probably walk out with four very good condition Gen III rear bushing sets for $20 . . . .
