driving my 93 atx the tach for no reason will drop to zero with no warning and the car seems to have better performance.then when the tach begins working again the car stumbles and isnt as snappy.occasionally (and getting more frequently) the car will just die for no reason and usually starts after one or more tries. i have replaced the crank sensor, the dis module, the battery cables, and the battery. i am at a complete loss of what to check next nobody in my area knows what to think of it. my girlfriend drives the car and she has two small kids with her most of the time i dont want them stranded. any help with this issue asap would be greatly appreciated.
need help asap drivability issues
- Thread starter LOCO_SHO
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i forgot to add when cranking after it dies if you depress the gass pedal the motor seems like it is kicking back and the lights get dim for a split second like the battery has no juice and black smoke comes out the tailpipes. so when it dies u cannot touch the accelerator to try to restart. any help thanks in advance.
Bizzy
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You shouldn't have to press the gas when starting.
First off run the codes to see what you come up with. The cam sensor can also cause the car to "hunt" (for lack of a better descriptive word) for cam position when starting. When that sensor is non-functional, it sounds like the timing is off when cranking, sometimes it'll catch right away and other times it takes several crank attempts to get it started. The smoke from your exhaust I think would be excess fuel from the failed cranking attempts. A failed cam sensor will also cause you to have no tach.
First off run the codes to see what you come up with. The cam sensor can also cause the car to "hunt" (for lack of a better descriptive word) for cam position when starting. When that sensor is non-functional, it sounds like the timing is off when cranking, sometimes it'll catch right away and other times it takes several crank attempts to get it started. The smoke from your exhaust I think would be excess fuel from the failed cranking attempts. A failed cam sensor will also cause you to have no tach.
bertha66
Member
I check with my local Ford dealer about a problem with my tach, he says that the tach gets it's signal from the cam sensor. My be time to change it. Cost me $60 at a local parts house.
Bizzy
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Cam sensors are only $32.xx at RockAuto.com IIRC.
ok so i need to chang the cam sensor to cure the problem?? would the cam sensor cause it to just die for no apparent reason also?? this info that i am recieving is great keep up the great ideas and suggestion. as far as codes go the cel comes on when the tach drops off but goes out when the tach recovers. i have access to a snap on scanner and everytime i have tried to scan it as of late it says there are no codes. when i first got it and was having all these problems it was saying pip sensor failure and a few other things that is why i changed the dis module and the crank trigger. when the problem persisted after that a couple of shops told me about the issues these cars have with power and ground supply so that is why i changed the battery and cables and checked all my grounds. so i can very well believe that the problem has been narrowed to the cam sensor. anymore input is appreciated before i spend the time and money to replace the cam trigger. also what is the procedure for changing the cam trigger??
revhardSHO
SHO Member
Did you make sure to set the proper gap with your new crank position sensor?
ohfosho
ontario SHOwner
the cam sensor is very easy to replace, and solved all of my no start and no tach problems. its on the back bank of cylinders, on the passenger side of the engine. you'll see its prolly covered in oil and dirty...thats part of why it died...so make sure your valve covers are done. you see the wire connector pointing up. 2 small screws hold it in. its right on the end of a cam (duh, you cant miss it!) that is the cheaper of the sensors.
shoteen95
isn't a teen :D
This sounds like a perfect excuse to indulge your SHO in an upper 60k.
Not that you really need to work to get the Cam sensor off with everything intact...but it's just so rediculously simple with the intake off
Also, does this issue seem to be more appearant sometimes more than others. Do the dead tach issues and starting troubles seem more appearant when the engine is fully warmed up, or when it's hot out? I'm just wondering, these underhood electronics seem to be prone to heat (no surprise).
*also*, i was under the impression that the dead tach was a sign of only a bad crank sensor, and the cam sensor was specifically used for simply starting the car. I've read on here somewhere that people have actually disconnected the cam sensor, and noticed no difference with the engine running. Perhaps you guys can correct me if i'm just full of bull...
Not that you really need to work to get the Cam sensor off with everything intact...but it's just so rediculously simple with the intake off
Also, does this issue seem to be more appearant sometimes more than others. Do the dead tach issues and starting troubles seem more appearant when the engine is fully warmed up, or when it's hot out? I'm just wondering, these underhood electronics seem to be prone to heat (no surprise).
*also*, i was under the impression that the dead tach was a sign of only a bad crank sensor, and the cam sensor was specifically used for simply starting the car. I've read on here somewhere that people have actually disconnected the cam sensor, and noticed no difference with the engine running. Perhaps you guys can correct me if i'm just full of bull...
SASHO91
Zoom Zoom
i have a pic of how to get the cam sensor off, somewhere, its really really easy to get it off on the mtx. but the atx is allready easy enough...
just incase it is the cam sensor....
which it sounds like a problem from both the cam and crank sensors..
just incase it is the cam sensor....
which it sounds like a problem from both the cam and crank sensors..
shospeed143
SHO Member
The cam sensor is only there to aid in starting it does not control the tach that will be the crank sensor. If you are able to get ahold a scan tool go to the screen that shows all of the sensors and find the cam and crank sensor and dis connect the feul and spark so the car dont turn all the way on. Start cranking the engine and see what the sensors are showing. I have yet to do this with a SHO but the crank sensor should show RPM and the cam sensor just lets the computer know when to fire the #1 fuel injector to start the engine. But like i said before i have yet to do this with a SHO so i dont know what the sensor tell the computer.
I almost gaurantee you its your cam sensor. I had identical problems until I replaced mine. A failing cam sensor CAN cause your tach to work intermittently. I know I would have a dead tach sometimes and ever since I replaced my CID its been fine.
ok guys so far so good i changed the cam sensor (o'reilly auto parts $31.99) since changing the sensor this morning i have driven damn near a full tank of 3.45 a gallon premium fuel and have not had a lick of a problem the quick and useful info was a great help but i dont wanna count my eggs before they hatch. it has been good and once again thank u all for the quick and in depth response. next issue does anybodys temp guage sit kinda high mine is right between the "n" and the "o" i dunno if this is normal or not i just flushed the cooling system like 6 months ago and replaced the thermostat. it may be right i was just wonderin. ill keep u posted if the cam sensor keeps the "possessed tach killer" away.thanks guys
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
The IDM (TACH) signal requires ALL of the following:
Cam sensor input
Crank sensor input
ALL three coil firing signals
These signals are combined in the DIS to yiel the signal that drives the tach.
If you loose either of the first, there will be no tach.
If you loose any of the coil drive signals, the tach will drop by 1/3 for each signal lost.
Steve
Cam sensor input
Crank sensor input
ALL three coil firing signals
These signals are combined in the DIS to yiel the signal that drives the tach.
If you loose either of the first, there will be no tach.
If you loose any of the coil drive signals, the tach will drop by 1/3 for each signal lost.
Steve
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