Frankiek3
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- Jul 16, 2003
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I thought my rod bearings spun, but it doesn't look like they did.
All my bottom bearings show almost no copper, and all my top bearings show the same dime sized amount.
The bearings farthest from the oil pump (closest to the flywheel) looked like they were spun or offset about 2 or 3 mm, but I think that was just from taking the rod cap off. That cap was the only one that was trouble. All the others came out with no force. (Much better than when we did my friends rod bearings, although 2 of his spun)
I'll get pictures up as soon as I can.
(This kind'of turns into a story so you don’t have to read it :corn: )
I was driving from PA to RI when my car stalled from overheating (at least I thought it did). The radiator was leaking pressure. I let it sit for a good while, and put more coolant in it, and then started to drive it. It was in the middle of Normal (Which is high for this car), but would surge up to the top of Normal and back down every so often, I figured it was just air in the system and would stop every so often and top it off. Well when I left the car idle the oil pressure light started to flicker then would be fine. Well, when I am about 25-30 miles away from my Mom's place in RI the car started ticking. I put two and two together and thought that a rod bearing spun. I pulled over and started to think, and decided to go the extra 25-30 miles. Well 5-10 miles more of driving the car stalled. I couldn't restart it (took me awhile to get up the courage to try.) Luckily a tow trunk drove by within 5 minutes. I flashed my high beams and he came back to me. Tow $3 a mile for 20 miles: $60, hookup: $60 = $120 (that hurts).
It is likely that the CPS caused the stalling (I'll check as soon as I get the bottom buttoned up.) I guess I'll find out what the ticking was too when I start it back up. (Timing belt tensioner is my guess if it still ticks)
On a plus since I have it up on jacks (and have 2 jacks and 4 jack stands)...
I got my Al SFBs on.
I had 10mm nuts (I know some don't)
I had to file about 1mm to fit them, and my subframe isn't rusted too badly. In fact the all my bolts came out pretty easily. (Exhaust, starter, SFB: bolts and nuts).
For some reason one of my y-pipe to catback bolts had a 17mm nut on it instead of that "catching nut". odd
All my bottom bearings show almost no copper, and all my top bearings show the same dime sized amount.
The bearings farthest from the oil pump (closest to the flywheel) looked like they were spun or offset about 2 or 3 mm, but I think that was just from taking the rod cap off. That cap was the only one that was trouble. All the others came out with no force. (Much better than when we did my friends rod bearings, although 2 of his spun)
I'll get pictures up as soon as I can.
(This kind'of turns into a story so you don’t have to read it :corn: )
I was driving from PA to RI when my car stalled from overheating (at least I thought it did). The radiator was leaking pressure. I let it sit for a good while, and put more coolant in it, and then started to drive it. It was in the middle of Normal (Which is high for this car), but would surge up to the top of Normal and back down every so often, I figured it was just air in the system and would stop every so often and top it off. Well when I left the car idle the oil pressure light started to flicker then would be fine. Well, when I am about 25-30 miles away from my Mom's place in RI the car started ticking. I put two and two together and thought that a rod bearing spun. I pulled over and started to think, and decided to go the extra 25-30 miles. Well 5-10 miles more of driving the car stalled. I couldn't restart it (took me awhile to get up the courage to try.) Luckily a tow trunk drove by within 5 minutes. I flashed my high beams and he came back to me. Tow $3 a mile for 20 miles: $60, hookup: $60 = $120 (that hurts).
It is likely that the CPS caused the stalling (I'll check as soon as I get the bottom buttoned up.) I guess I'll find out what the ticking was too when I start it back up. (Timing belt tensioner is my guess if it still ticks)
On a plus since I have it up on jacks (and have 2 jacks and 4 jack stands)...
I got my Al SFBs on.
I had 10mm nuts (I know some don't)
I had to file about 1mm to fit them, and my subframe isn't rusted too badly. In fact the all my bolts came out pretty easily. (Exhaust, starter, SFB: bolts and nuts).
For some reason one of my y-pipe to catback bolts had a 17mm nut on it instead of that "catching nut". odd
