my car needs rod bearings, and a therapist...

[Jon Klein]

Hi guys this is Jon and my 93' atx is givin me crap again. I still have the ticking that developed with the last oil change.(ticking comes from drivers side of the engine at idle). Only now I have a bigger problem. I get this nasty diesel engine sound when the engine is cold, all through the rpm band. I also get a nasty CLACK when I tap the gas in park. I think I might need rod bearings? do you guys know how long it takes to do and how expensive it is? I have to do it myself (learn to anyway) because I blew my money wad on a valve job that made the engine louder. Thanks for your input guys. happy 03'.

Jon

P.s. the car has ~134k mi on it now.

 

[projectSHO89]

Read.... http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=004947

and here.... http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=004979

Then click on SEARCH and enter "rod bearings".

Steve

 

[stevetatro]

And make sure to read this http://www.kurtmetros.com/bearings.html

Just in case you don't run across it when you search ;^)

 

[rangerj]

JON,

Rod bearings - Cleavite.

Thearapist - Doctor Phil!

rangerj

 

[X-15 SHO]

That's the problem, the valve job you paid for. You need to talk to Scott P. about that, he had the same thing happen to his 89 SHO when Ford did the valve job on it. Now he has a 91 and learned how to do his own work and not let some idiots work on the car.

 

[Jon Klein]

thanks for the input guys.

If your out there Scott do you think that my problem is the vavles? or the bearings?

thanks a ton

jon

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Last time I looked in the mirror I wasn't Scott and my car is a bit slower, but probably handles a lot nicer.

Anyhow, it's hard to hear and diagnose noises over a 1/2" thick T3 line. What you can do to help Scott or any of us is determine where the sound is coming from. Start the car and pop the oil cap off. If you can hear the noise coming from in there then it's a valve out of spec or possibly a shim ejected from a lash cap. If you didn't hear the sound from there, proceed to your toolbox and get a long screw driver. Place the end of the screw driver on the rear valve cover and the handle to your ear. Is the sound coming from here? If it is, then the same problems could be at fault. If the sound is a bit beefier (sounds like knocking on a solid wood door) and it doesn't sound like it's coming from the top of the engine, then you are most likely looking at rod bearings.

I will now commence getting into my white SHO with my 268k miles. Oh wait...

 

[sdpatt]

Mikeys_Taurus:
Last time I looked in the mirror I wasn't Scott and my car is a bit slower, but probably handles a lot nicer.

Anyhow, it's hard to hear and diagnose noises over a 1/2" thick T3 line. What you can do to help Scott or any of us is determine where the sound is coming from. Start the car and pop the oil cap off. If you can hear the noise coming from in there then it's a valve out of spec or possibly a shim ejected from a lash cap. If you didn't hear the sound from there, proceed to your toolbox and get a long screw driver. Place the end of the screw driver on the rear valve cover and the handle to your ear. Is the sound coming from here? If it is, then the same problems could be at fault. If the sound is a bit beefier (sounds like knocking on a solid wood door) and it doesn't sound like it's coming from the top of the engine, then you are most likely looking at rod bearings.

I will now commence getting into my white SHO with my 268k miles. Oh wait...

Well said.

Oh, but why do you think your car handles "a lot nicer" than mine? I'll bet that the Eibach springs, TPR bushings, 7.5" wide wheels wearing Bridgestone RE730 tires and rear strut tower brace over your equipment might have a small effect on the handling. wink Maybe.

<small>[ January 07, 2003, 11:40 AM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[Jon Klein]

The noise at idle is a ticking that is syncronized with the engine revolutions...it appears to go above idle. when your standing in front of the car it sounds like it is comming from the back valve cover, almost by the chain tensioner. when your out side the car with the hood closed it sounds like its comming out of the drivers side wheel well, unless your leaning under the front bumper then it sounds like its comming from the lower part of the engine. Also, when its cold in the morning, 20-30 degrees F., the car sounds like a diesel when reving it, but at idle there are no noises when its cold and the engine sounds tighter. On top of that, if you nail the throttle from under the hood, you can hear a loud nasty CLACK. Sorry for the long post...I hope this helps...thank you so much...any input would be great...

Jon

 

[Mike Kopstain]

sdpatt:

Mikeys_Taurus:
Last time I looked in the mirror I wasn't Scott and my car is a bit slower, but probably handles a lot nicer.

Anyhow, it's hard to hear and diagnose noises over a 1/2" thick T3 line. What you can do to help Scott or any of us is determine where the sound is coming from. Start the car and pop the oil cap off. If you can hear the noise coming from in there then it's a valve out of spec or possibly a shim ejected from a lash cap. If you didn't hear the sound from there, proceed to your toolbox and get a long screw driver. Place the end of the screw driver on the rear valve cover and the handle to your ear. Is the sound coming from here? If it is, then the same problems could be at fault. If the sound is a bit beefier (sounds like knocking on a solid wood door) and it doesn't sound like it's coming from the top of the engine, then you are most likely looking at rod bearings.

I will now commence getting into my white SHO with my 268k miles. Oh wait...

Well said.

Oh, but why do you think your car handles "a lot nicer" than mine? I'll bet that the Eibach springs, TPR bushings, 7.5" wide wheels wearing Bridgestone RE730 tires and rear strut tower brace over your equipment might have a small effect on the handling. wink Maybe.

Hmmmmm. I didn't know all that, but I still have the poly bushings, tokicos all around, strut tower brace, 235 tires up front, 24&26mm sway bars (I can brag about that because my car came with 19" sway bars stock ), but you have the Eibachs. Damn the Eibachs. Ahhhhh, but you have something I don't have... power. In the turns that's a no-no. Are you going to the convention this year Scott? I'd love to see your car anyhow and I'd love to get my butt handed to me on the track.

Jon, do the screwdriver thing. You have to pin point where it is coming from with the hood open. Start the car and drop to the ground and see if it's coming from the block. It's completely different problems depending on where that noise is coming from.

 

[Jon Klein]

thanks for the info. Where should I put the screwdriver to tell if it really is the bearings for sure? Thanks again.

Jon