idle problem

[thecrew2999]

having a idle problem and of course right after i paint the intake.

i cleaned the DIS plate and intake tube, the bolts that hold the intake tube on and the brackets along with those bolts, cleaned up some runner to head bolts and the bolt holes, cleaned the bolts themselves, all vacuums are hooked up along with the ground wire in the back, all wires hooked up, cleaned the MAF and the sensor in the air box, checked all the vacuum lines on the car, checked plug wires and the injector wires.

ok the car idles up and down sometimes, other times just dies out after dropping kinda slow on idle. if you start the car without touching the gas it starts then dies instantly and the olny way to keep it running is by reving it some and slowly letting it drop but then it still dont idle long by itself.

i found out my BBB were stuck open before and i cleaned them up and rebuilt them so they move with ease now.

i dont know if the butterflies being stuck would have anything to do with it which i doubt but anyways i have the battery off for awhile so it woulda reset the idle and all that good stuff anyways.

i wanna check the whole intake for leaks and i heard about using a propane torch without being lit of course to check for leaks. if theres a leak will it idle louder or bog down more so i know where it would be if there is a leak?

any other ideas let me know. ill pull codes later right now im cooling down from being ****** at it because it ran fine before all this of course.

thanks in advance

 

[sdpatt]

Did you remove the connector from the idle air control valve?

 

[Mr95Gl]

Did you remove the connector from the idle air control valve?

X2. Either the IAC/IAB valve isn't connected, or its bad. If it is connected, try swapping it out with a known good one.

 

[thecrew2999]

got ya. ill give remove the IAC and see what happens i got a spare in a spare intake box outback. one thing i dont have a spare is the IAB which i did remove for painting the intake

 

[thecrew2999]

i changed the IAC and no difference.
i tried running the car without the IAB connected and it seemed worse so i got the IAB off and sprayed some carb cleaner in it (can said it was ok ) and then it seemed to run a little better at first and seemed like it was gonna idle higher like normal so it can warmup then it bogged back down and died, everytime i start it same deal but if i hit the gas to about 1800 or more rpms it feels fine but about anything lower it gets real weak then dies out.

im gonna get another IAB and find out if thats it.

o yeah also i tested the tps and it read fine (i did how i was told by area91) at idle it should be around .96 or somewhere in there volts then slowly hit the throttle and keey reading and if theres a dead spot its bad. well no dead spots.

i really think its IAB so ill post back when i figure it out

 

[SASHO91]

there is no need to adjust the TPS...

It sounds as if there is a vacuum leak.... could be a number of things.... but as you said, get a propane torch (or carb cleaner/starting fluid) and start looking for leaks.... the idle raises, you've found your leak....

Have you pulled the codes yet? or are you still "cooling down"

 

[thecrew2999]

id like to check the codes but my cars been getting weird. at first it worked for everything then its just became the key on engine off now it sometimes goes half way threw reading the codes and stop and i hear the fuel pump prime again or it just dont even try..
usually it works half way when i unhook the battery and hook it back up
i got half my codes but they are nothing important... this code checking problem been getting worse.

i cleaned the pins with wd-40 and pushed the paper clip up and down a few times to make sure its clean but it dont make a difference


the olny codes i got was atx codes (cars mtx now) and EGR (mtx intake also) it died halfway threw one code and the fuel pump primed again telling me basicly it didnt wanna do it anymore

 

[thecrew2999]

could there possibly be a problem like the paper clip isnt thick enough or long enough ? its olny a tiny paper clip and it has coating on it that i removed at the ends

 

[SASHO91]

i doubt it... but just for kicks, get a piece of wire....

Otherwise, i say it may be something with the EEC. But, could also be as simple as a ground issue.

 

[thecrew2999]

i dont know. its been fine until i painted it and its done this ******** code pulling deal before, car is mad at me i think... **** i swear it probley plans over night what its gonna do to me the next time i mess with it.

if i dont get this figured out im gonna go to the junkyard and grab a comp, i hear theres a yard somewhere near me with a bunch of SHOs but the guy didnt sound to sure he knew what they were even.

 

[Axianator]

could there possibly be a problem like the paper clip isnt thick enough or long enough ? its olny a tiny paper clip and it has coating on it that i removed at the ends

If the good ol' paper clip just ain't cutting it, you might try a piece of electrical wire with flat-tipped blades on the end. If you do it right, then the blades should fit snugly inside the EEC test connector with just a little bit of initial resistance.

In addition to intake system leaks, I would also go back and double-check each and every sensor plug and terminating connection on your wiring harness to ensure that you don't have a broken, melted or grounded connection somewhere. If you recall, Beth had a similar problem on her '91 after a clutch job when one of the EGR system connectors had been accidentally trapped and grounded inside the transmission casing itself. Although her situation was somewhat unique, it's very possible that the resulting part swapping and replacement from your ATX-to-MTX conversion work within the engine bay may have forced something similar to happen to you.

 

[SASHO91]

i dont know. its been fine until i painted it and its done this ******** code pulling deal before,.

are you sure all of your grounds are clean? Just double checking.

 

[thecrew2999]

hmm well i finally got it to work... well finish the codes it should have.

i did the key on engine off and i got nothing but 1 egr code and the rest atx codes.

when it was going back threw the codes a second time it died instead of the first time threw

edit
i used a thick wire this time about 5 inch long..

 

[thecrew2999]

ill check around sometime for anything grounded that shouldnt be or bare wire.

i know i did ground one thing i didnt need to ground... the eatc ground wire, when you ground it everything comes up in C instead of F, i ended up relearning my conversions that way.
you would be suprised how many wires there are in the dash compaired to under the hood.

 

[thecrew2999]

it was IAB/IAC sensor... i switched it with a known working one and its running as good as it ever was.