Iac

[Phokus]

I want to clean it to see if my idle will go down to normal. It sits around 1200+ all the time

Where the heck is it? I read in a thread that it looks like a roll of quarters but I found nothing like that other than the curly spring for the throttle cable

 

[FastAndFurious]

I did google search and found the picture! Here you go!

 

[Phokus]

That's supposed to look liek a roll of quarters? >_>

Thanks!
Now off to fiddle with it til it comes out and try to clean it with some spray carb cleaner

 

[FastAndFurious]

That's supposed to look liek a roll of quarters? >_>

Thanks!
Now off to fiddle with it til it comes out and try to clean it with some spray carb cleaner

It kind of looks like a roll of quarters. haha

Have fun! Hopefully that solves the idling problem!

 

[frosho]

Don't pull it out if you haven't tried to reset the idle yet. You can do more harm than good.

HERE is the idle reset procedure.

 

[Phokus]

I suppose it's tried to reset its idle when the battery was drained and killed by the stupid crap amp that was hooked up in the back that didn't do anything a while back.

It's been like this for over 3000 miles.

I got it and poked the springy thing inside. It looked pretty clean and it moves around freely and easily.

While I was fiddling around under there I noticed the throttle cable adjustment screw threaded rod thing seems to have been turned.
I moved it a bit and it idles nicely! at about 800-900 wow what a difference for driving about.
I made it show 5 threads on the engine side
Could you guys count how many threads are showing on the engine side for me please? T

 

[lowc]

dont try to take it off with out pulling the intake. i did it with out pulling the intake and it was not fun at all it was a major pita. I have a few extra if you end up needing one just give me a call

 

[Phokus]

^ could you count how many threads are showing on the throttle cable adjustment screw/threaded rod thing on the engine side?

I think my IAC works. It idles cold at like 1500or so and drops down to 1100-1200

and I did try to take it off without taking the intake.. the bottom screw was

 

[frosho]

You really shouldn't mess with that screw. It's not there for setting the idle, it's there to keep your throttle body operating correctly. You don't have a spare throttle body, do you?

 

[Phokus]

Nope I don't have a spare anything other than a 3.2 engine sitting around. The screw was pre messed with thaqts why I'm asking how many threads you guys have showing

 

[Devin]

Here's the way to check properly:

Unplug spout line and verify that ignition timing is base +/- 2 degrees BTDC.
Remove PCV hose from throttle body and plug it. Remove canister purge hose from throttle body and connect Rotunda tool T89P-9600-AH (0.200 inch diameter orifice) between PCV and CANP ports.
Disconnect Idle Speed Control Air Bypass Solenoid.
Place automatic transmission in NEUTRAL.
Start engine and run at idle.
Check/adjust idle rpm Turn the throttle plate stop screw to 800 +/- 30 rpm.
Shut engine OFF and disconnect battery for 5 minutes minimum.
Remove CANP hose from PCV connector of throttle body and reconnect it to its CANP fitting. Unplug PCV hose and reconnect it to its PCV fitting.
Reconnect Idle Speed Control Air Bypass Solenoid, verify the throttle is not stuck in the bore and linkage not preventing throttle from closing.
Start engine and stabilize for 2 minutes then goose the engine and let it return to idle, lightly depress and release the accelerator let engine idle. If idle problem still exists check for other possible causes.

 

[Phokus]

I don't have that Rotunda tool whatever it is?

I drove around the city with a cold start a few hours after tweaking the screw. Car runs and feels leaps and bounds better than before, no strange activity from the engine is a good sign right?

It also seems like my temperature gauge started to work more correctly now too. But that just might be an unrelated issue.

 

[lowc]

ray i have a extra tb here at the shop if you need it