Code 95 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Failure...now what?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

ALWyzBrknSHO

SHO Member
Joined
May 18, 2003
Messages
431
Reaction score
0
Location
Springfield, MO
Ok, as the title says, pulled a code 95. Secondary Fuel Pump Circuit Failure-ECA to Ground. So whats this mean? Where can I go from here?

All kinda makes sense considering the pump isn't kickin on.
 

ALWyzBrknSHO

SHO Member
Joined
May 18, 2003
Messages
431
Reaction score
0
Location
Springfield, MO
Says check pump relay (replaced), Inertia switch (replaced), and the harness (O great this sucks). I guess I'm gettin a little closer...
 

ALWyzBrknSHO

SHO Member
Joined
May 18, 2003
Messages
431
Reaction score
0
Location
Springfield, MO
Also found this on midwest SHO...

95 - Fuel pump: open bad ground or always on AIR not Diverting (AIRD) (M) Possible bad fuel pump ground or open between fuel pump and pin 8 at PCM (Fuel Pump Monitor signal)

So does this all mean something in the wiring? Thats probably a duh question but I'm tryin to figure this all out.
 

projectSHO89

SHOless In St L
Joined
Nov 7, 2001
Messages
6,116
Reaction score
160
Location
St. Louis, MO
ALWyzBrknSHO:
Well I don't have a voltmeter so I don't know how your write up will be able to help me.
Bluntly:

Then you might as well pi$$ your time and money into the wind and keep on guessing.

Your other choice is to spend $20 at Sears or Radio Shack to buy a meter then troubleshoot it properly.

Steve
 

autobahnsho

SHO Victim
Joined
Nov 21, 2002
Messages
852
Reaction score
0
Location
NY for now, WY for real
Are there any other relays that are tied to this?

I was at the garage last week and the guy was talking about troubleshooting a BMW- the ignition relay went out so the pump wasn't working. They're tied together.

I realize this is apples and lemons (BMW being the lemon :D ), but shrug
 

ALWyzBrknSHO

SHO Member
Joined
May 18, 2003
Messages
431
Reaction score
0
Location
Springfield, MO
Ok I got my voltage meter now. But where exactly am I hooking up the red or black "needles" to check the voltage? I think I'm gonna start at the back at the thing that plugs into the top of the pump...
 

F-22 Raptor SHO

New Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2001
Messages
2,788
Reaction score
71
Location
7015 feet above Sea Level
Sounds like you have the pump and tank down already, but you could check the voltage at the shutoff switch in the trunk without dropping the tank. Least that will tell you whether the voltage is making it to the tank or has been interupted up stream. You should have 12V at the two pink and black wires on the solenoid when the ignition is first turned on (have someone turn it on while you have the red and black pins shoved into the connector that goes to the solenoid.

If you have 12 there, then you can check the wires in the tank. If you dont have 12 there, then your problem lies in the front of the car. Project SHO's troubleshooting list is quite detailed.
 

ALWyzBrknSHO

SHO Member
Joined
May 18, 2003
Messages
431
Reaction score
0
Location
Springfield, MO
F-22 Raptor SHO:
Sounds like you have the pump and tank down already, but you could check the voltage at the shutoff switch in the trunk without dropping the tank. Least that will tell you whether the voltage is making it to the tank or has been interupted up stream. You should have 12V at the two pink and black wires on the solenoid when the ignition is first turned on (have someone turn it on while you have the red and black pins shoved into the connector that goes to the solenoid.

If you have 12 there, then you can check the wires in the tank. If you dont have 12 there, then your problem lies in the front of the car. Project SHO's troubleshooting list is quite detailed.
Awesome thanks, actually that explains things a bit better for me. :D
 

projectSHO89

SHOless In St L
Joined
Nov 7, 2001
Messages
6,116
Reaction score
160
Location
St. Louis, MO
All voltage tests on a car, unless specifed otherwise, are always measured with the black meter lead connected securely to a good ground. The red lead is used to probe the circut under test.

Steve
 

ALWyzBrknSHO

SHO Member
Joined
May 18, 2003
Messages
431
Reaction score
0
Location
Springfield, MO
Ok stupid question, when trying to check the voltage on the IRCM pins 5 and 10, do I just touch the red needle to whichever pin, and the black one to a good ground, this is im assuming with the IRCM box unplugged.
 

ALWyzBrknSHO

SHO Member
Joined
May 18, 2003
Messages
431
Reaction score
0
Location
Springfield, MO
O yea and I checked the voltage at the inertia switch and got zero voltage. So like it said up above, that means its something at the front of the car....
 

ALWyzBrknSHO

SHO Member
Joined
May 18, 2003
Messages
431
Reaction score
0
Location
Springfield, MO
Ok I was kinda doodlin around, and I put the black needle on the positive side of the battery, and put the red needle in the test connector for the fuel pump. I read 12 volts, I don't know if it means anything, but its somethin. O yea this was with the key in the on position.

I also already tried stickin some wire in the test connector single input, and the fuel pump connector to see if it would run and it didn't. I'm gonna go back to doodling now and try and use this guide lol.
 

ALWyzBrknSHO

SHO Member
Joined
May 18, 2003
Messages
431
Reaction score
0
Location
Springfield, MO
Ok I was kinda doodlin around, and I put the black needle on the positive side of the battery, and put the red needle in the test connector for the fuel pump. I read 12 volts, I don't know if it means anything, but its somethin. O yea this was with the key in the on position.

I also already tried stickin some wire in the test connector single input, and the fuel pump connector to see if it would run and it didn't. I'm gonna go back to doodling now and try and use this guide lol.

O wait forgot to add, I guess I did it right, but I tried checking the voltage at ICM pin 5 and 10, and I still got zero voltage.

So then I'm now assuming by reading the guide that this is whats left to check...

5. Measure ICM pin 10. If reading is full battery voltage, the FP relay in the ICM is bad. Replace or repair ICM. If reading is 0 volts, check the voltages on both leads of dropping resistor. If the readings are both 0 volts, there is an open circuit between the reistor and Fuse Link J. If one lead of
the resistor measures 0 volts and the other side reads battery voltage, the resistor is open. You can temporarily jump the resistor to see if the pump will run.


Ok, so if this is the case and im doing this all right. Is there anything on the 91's I can check since there is no external resistor?
 

projectSHO89

SHOless In St L
Joined
Nov 7, 2001
Messages
6,116
Reaction score
160
Location
St. Louis, MO
Okay, I will see if I can fill in the blanks, including for the 91.

First, you should be making ALL measurements with the key turned to RUN, the jumper installed EXACTLY as in step 1, and NOT unplgging anything unless the instructions tell you to. Again, see my last post for specific instructions on HOW to measure voltages and, please, quit ddodling around.

Fuel Pump Troubleshooting for the 91

1. Ground the FP test point on the EEC-IV connector. See the EEC self-test section of the FAQs at http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3eeccodes.html All voltage readings are referenced to a good chassis ground, unless otherwise specified. This activates the FP Relay.

2. Fuel pump SHOULD be running. If not, go to Step 3.

3. Measure at pin 5 of the ICM (PK/BK)to ground. You should measure battery voltage. If so, go to step 4. Otherwise, if reading is 0 volts, GO TO STEP 5.

4. Check inertia switch, reset as needed. Measure voltage on both leads. A good switch will have the same voltage on both leads as measured in step 3 above. If not, jumper across the switch and see if the FP runs. If so, replace the switch. Measure the voltage at the FP terminals. If you measure the same voltage at the input and the ground is good (verify it), replace the FP. If the voltage is lost at some point, you have an open circuit between that point and the previous point that did have voltage.

5. Measure IRCM pins 10 & 12. If reading is full battery voltage, the FP relay(s) in the IRCM is (are) bad. Replace or repair IRCM. If the readings are both 0 volts, there is an open circuit between the IRCM and the battery. Install a fused (10A) jumper to see if the FP kicks in. If so, sheck for an open GREEN Fuse Link H.

Some of this is supposition as I am relying on a combination of the Mitchell's and the 92 circuit. I do not have a 91 EVTM.

Follow the steps in order, exactly as given. If you don't understand something, ask. Don't putz around.

Good luck

Steve

<small>[ March 27, 2004, 09:21 PM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>
 

gun metal slicer

New Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2003
Messages
20
Reaction score
0
Location
bristol, ri
I have a '95, and it appears I threw the same code, 542 for me (fuel pump secondary circut failure). What would the process be for me to find the actual problem?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,087
Messages
1,181,313
Members
16,153
Latest member
lapochkarr

Members online

Back
Top