Catch can worth it?

[Zpak]

 

[bpd1151]

However, with your early EPP style intake I don’t think you have the bung for the WOT vacuum connection.

Yea, I'm not sure. I'd have to look 'em over and double check.

I agree about the myriad of complaints revolving around that vendor you cite, and their 1 can set up.

Which is why I presented the questions that I had/have.

Thank you for the help. Hopefully others chime in too.

I relied way to heavily on a certain vendor, who claimed for years that one wasn't needed, only to have them backpedal and in a complete 180, say that one was/is needed, and how their's is claimed to be the best. All in the name of the almighty dollar. Ugh. Alas, I digress.

But no longer will I follow blindly and be so naive.

Looking forward to more assistance from the masses.

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[RonPorter]

I've owned many vehicles as well, but I don't post them in the gen 4 sho section.

I used to be a people person until people ruined it for me.

Maybe I'm wrong but I thought the point of the thread was if a catch can was worth it on a sho. At any rate, derail away.

Getting back to my point. From some experience, turbo and s/c engines dump more oil into the intake. Someone mentioned that they barely get any at oil change time. My basic point is that my n/a engine puts out a lot more after just under a 1,000 miles, so something doesn't look right for the other guy.

 

[High on Ethanol]

The system is designed for what occurs with some climates being more lucky than others.

FORD does an amazing job with most of their engineering, cutting costs, and balancing epa and performance to fit every location and most scenarios.

Are catch cans needed? Well it depends... one way to find out, get one and check it, keep a log, take samples before and after....then figure if it was necessary or not. For me it isn't, but for some it absolutely is.

 

[LilCop2002]

Getting back to the thread topic, I do have a question though for the masses here.....

I am contemplating a catch can set up myself, as part of my rebuild.

1st off, I'm not sure which kit, or which vendor to purchase from?

2nd, since I have the EPP hotpipes, and the front of my motor has the VTA breather on it.....

Which type of kit would be best for mine? I.E. like how many hoses, which hoses would run where, etc.??

Appreciate any help on the subject matter. TIA.

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I'm not nearly as modified as you (read: at all) but I've been searching high and low for this answer. Thanks for asking it.

 

[Zpak]

Judging strictly on personal experience with my UPR dual valve can VS my buddies cheep one on his 3.5 EB F150, I consistently catch far more oil. His, like the LMS version doesn’t have the extra hose from the intake to oil cap to can.

I can say the UPR is very well made, the continental hoses and fittings are excellent quality, and the billet oil cap is a nice upgrade from stock. They are pricey but it’s literally an ounce or more of oil that is kept Away from my valves every 1,000 miles.

My only complaint honestly is I wish I could empty it without removing the can entirely. Oh, and the hose on the oil cap is a little inconvenient. But I mean, come on.

 

[Wsho]

Well honestly I could say I catch oil in my can and my thing is it was cheap enough it couldn't hurt..

 

[stripSHO]

The difference between a regular vs dual port catch can is that it provides more venting of the crankcase. Comparing oil accumulation of one vs the other doesn't necessarily indicate that the one with less oil is letting vapors blow through it. It probably just shows that there's less passing through it to begin with.

 

[SaveMelMac]

It was my understanding that the jlt type setup only circulates during engine vacuum not boost. The dual type setup circulates under vacuum and boost. If you’re driving under boost most of the time the jlt isn’t going to have much of a chance to pick up vapors.

 

[RonPorter]

Well, the pcv valve works under crankcase pressure, as well as intake vacuum. It's just a simple one-way valve, that allows fumes out, but won't let something like pressure from the intake side blow back into the crankcase.

Semi off topic, but years ago, I believe that it was Smoky Yunick that came up with a pump to suck out of the crankcase, providing negative pressure and supposedly increasing hp with less drag.

 

[802SHO]

UPR Dual Valve CC on mine and I upgraded the check valve to a high pressure check valve to ensure no blow back under BOOST! Ordered in Satin and somehow I thought it would arrive Black but its not...Satin Aluminum?

If you like to let your car idle(warm up) a lot it really fills up quick.

 

[bpd1151]

@ 802......

The UPR set up you describe, with all the upgrades available, is actually the one system I am spying.

Seriously so.

So I am glad to see you post about yours, and include the image that you did/have.

Pricey, but seems to be the most inclusive out of all the setups I've seen available for purchase thus far in my research.

Any other tips, hints, tricks, experiences you care to share?

PM me if need be. TIA.

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[802SHO]

Good choice! Yes when I bought it a couple years ago, it came with no instructions and it does come with a check valve. I noticed on their website they offered a high pressure check valve and I called them to inquire if that's what came with it. It didn't, they said the check valve that came with it was good but then asked me what my plans were for the car. "Run laps at the dragstrip". They said I should get the high pressure check valve so that under high boost the vapors caught in the can won't blow back into the engine. I think its more for high boost applications, 20+? Not 100% sure but I didn't want to wonder, so they got me for another $50! If course I let them know politely, that it's absurd they sell it with a low quality check valve and that for the price it should be included. That was 2 years ago now so I'm not sure if they include it or not.

The Can sits right in the same area as your mini windshield washer tank since your OEM windshield washer tank is your meth tank. In a pinch, I ended up removing the screws holding my mini windshield washer tank to the exterior of the passenger strut and let it hang off to the side...doesnt go anywhere but in (in a pinch) it worked. That allowed enough room for the catchcan, but then I couldn't secure the mount hardware for the can bc the mini WW tank is still in some of the way. This was fine for me but for you, you'll want to either relocate the mini WW tank and/or modify the catch can mounting hardware to reach something nearby so its secure.

So first see how the can will sit. Then run all the lines without the can there, its so much easier. Then when you're done you just connect them to the can, secure the can.

After installing and about 3k miles later, it didn't look like I caught much...still some but not like some of these other guys. Then last winter I kept taking my car out of the garage and let it idle for like 30 min each time....someone told me it's bad to turn a vehicle on that's being stored and then turn it right back off...so I tried it. Well this year I looked in that catch can and it had more than I've ever seen. Perhaps more is associated with more idling and taking it easy on the ol girl?

Let me know if you want more pics of how its installed/setup

 

[SHOdded]

Idling creates a hot environment (heat cycling) for the engine as well as puts more fuel in the oil. Bonanza!

 

[Majestic]

We mostly used a catch can back in the old days of turbocharged Lima engines when the rings were getting worn or we were running much higher boost. I've checked the ic hose of my SHO and it is clean. Tailpipes suggest a different story, though.

 

[bpd1151]

Let me know if you want more pics of how its installed/setup

Yes please.

The more the merrier.

Appreciate it!

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[jgonza5]

Past commentary from UPR regarding their Dual Valve (Single) Can vs Twin Can systems:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...atch-can-vs-single-and-twin-catch-cans.14451/

Also, remember that the Clean Line and WOT Line are each installed with their inline check valve arrows pointing away from the can.

 

[jgonza5]

Judging strictly on personal experience with my UPR dual valve can VS my buddies cheep one on his 3.5 EB F150, I consistently catch far more oil. His, like the LMS version doesn’t have the extra hose from the intake to oil cap to can.

I can say the UPR is very well made, the continental hoses and fittings are excellent quality, and the billet oil cap is a nice upgrade from stock. They are pricey but it’s literally an ounce or more of oil that is kept Away from my valves every 1,000 miles.

My only complaint honestly is I wish I could empty it without removing the can entirely. Oh, and the hose on the oil cap is a little inconvenient. But I mean, come on.

Does your can have the tapped hole & plug on the bottom? maybe you could add the drain line kit. (I recently purchased my UPR can, along with the drain line kit, based on the commentary received on this forum!)

 

[bpd1151]

All great info.

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[Wsho]

So would it be a good idea to put it in a check valve in my catch can? Also would be a good idea to drill a hole put a drain on the bottom cuz that thing is a pain in the ass to take out. Looks like more customizing for me LOL