Brake Discussion

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PonySHO

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This thread is branching out from "so, lets talk bigger turbo's????????"

Josh (typhoon5000), like they say, hindsight is 20/20. I haven't taken my R to an open track event in a while. If I ever start going again, I'll be getting some NACA ducts for the fog light openings. Those will probably give the best return benefit wise. The cross drilled rotors do look soooo cool though! They would look really neat on the SHO, especially with a really open wheel design.
 
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Good idea on the new thread Mike, it'll help keep things in order later on when searching for info.

I'd like to know from current owners, or people that have test driven the 2010, any complaints about the brakes? How hard have you used them? Any pedal fade/self destruction?

IMHO, before the car goes faster, as with any car, it needs to be able to handle the speed in the form of brakes, suspension, etc. Build a good foundation and then make it absurdly fast.
 

PonySHO

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IMHO, before the car goes faster, as with any car, it needs to be able to handle the speed in the form of brakes, suspension, etc. Build a good foundation and then make it absurdly fast.

I would say you hit the nail on the head. You're probably gonna go faster in the end focusing on brakes and suspension and then power.
 

frosho

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I'd like to know from current owners, or people that have test driven the 2010, any complaints about the brakes? How hard have you used them? Any pedal fade/self destruction?

Didn't Kirk say he already "melted" the pads?


For sure we can make the car better (much better with a Tune and Exhaust) but Ive always said that making the car go fast is simple making the car stop is another. Ive already melted my front brake pads in testing 80-0 runs so after my tune is squared away im heading to the brake Dept..

Ill be testing some pads for somone in the next week or so and ive been working on the SS brake lines. Ill get the stock system better then over the winter ill get some huge brakes on for the track.
 
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Yeah, but Kirk is way harder on cars than most people. That's why I like designing stuff around his needs, if Kirk can't break it, it ain't breakable. lol
 

RonPorter

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IIRC, Kirk's plan was to try some different pads and the SS lines. I'm not an SS line fan, but pads can make a HUGE difference. I have twin-piston front calipers on the LGT, and with good pads, I'm happy. I would have to get way more serious about the track before I upgrade calipers/rotors.
 

OSU 4 SHO

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I am not sure if they make these for the new SHO yet or if they even will, but a company called Tyrol makes caliper bushings. They are a VERY popular product in the R32/GTI scene to stiffen up the brake pedal and increase feel. They are about $90.

Along with the tyrol bushings, SS lines, high temp fluid and Hawk HP+ pads are the combo for HARD street use on the GTI's. I imagine a similar setup on the SHO would be enough for almost anyone (besides me and apparently Kirk).

I am going for 2008 R32 brakes with the above products since I am so ******* my brakes.
 

typhoon5000

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I just went and got new blank rotors for my vic yesterday. This discussion reminded me about how bad they pulse now and that I needed to get them cut or replaced. I also went to NAPA and they don't turn rotors, at least at my closest location. They also said, even if they did, they don't think you could cut slotted ones. I figured I would just cut my losses with the crappy Powerslot. NAPA had new ones for only $37 a piece for the fronts, which is much cheaper than anyone else and they were made in the USA (even though he said all new rotors will be from China as NAPA just bought their own plan in China for them :mad:).

I was looking at some by a company called Command Automotive that makes HD cryogenically treated rotors for police vehicles. They are supposed to be unwarpable for the entire usable life of the rotor (down to min thickness) plus decrease braking distances. Then I found out the price was $60 a rotor without shipping, so I just went with the NAPA's.

I'll be putting them on tomorrow or this weekend. now I just have to remember how to bed them properly.

I am going for 2008 R32 brakes with the above products since I am so ******* my brakes.

Just to be clear, you're putting R32 brakes on your GTI, not a SHO, right? There was no mention of what car this was for, so I just wanted to make sure this was right.
 
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jedhead

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typhoon5000

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One thing that isn't covered in either Stoptech's or Baer's procedures is how to bed new rotors with already bedded pads, which is what I need to do. I already have good and bedded Hawk Ferro-Carbon pads that I plan on reusing. Should I just follow the procedure anyways to make sure all of my bases are covered?
 
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jedhead

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You can season the rotors with new or bedded pads. I just follow the seasoning instructions then not perform the bedding instructions if the pads were already bedded.

Bob
 

SHODWN

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Pads Arrived today..

3 sets of fronts
IIRC.

1.better than stock
2.Autocross
3 track day

Rear im unaware, assumeing that they are
1. Better than Stock
2. Autocross Rear.

I cant say who made them yet, but will get them installed, next week and follow thier rulles of testing. Will video tape it as well.

As far as the Hawk pads go, IMO they are not great- at least for me. I use a full set up in one day and they fade on me. Now this is on my 95 with 3.3 putting down 270ish hp I forgot the actual dyno numbers. The set I put on for this years convention went away on me in the first session and never came back. Thank god for the qualife and sticky tires!
 

typhoon5000

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hmm, seasoned rotors, my favorite gourmet meal LOL. That was the first thing I though of when reading that.
 

beefcake

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Pads Arrived today..

3 sets of fronts
IIRC.

1.better than stock
2.Autocross
3 track day

Rear im unaware, assumeing that they are
1. Better than Stock
2. Autocross Rear.

I cant say who made them yet, but will get them installed, next week and follow thier rulles of testing. Will video tape it as well.

As far as the Hawk pads go, IMO they are not great- at least for me. I use a full set up in one day and they fade on me. Now this is on my 95 with 3.3 putting down 270ish hp I forgot the actual dyno numbers. The set I put on for this years convention went away on me in the first session and never came back. Thank god for the qualife and sticky tires!

keep us updated
 

thebigjimsho

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In addition to SS lines, track pads and Motul600 fluid, I also run Ti brake shims. Every little bit helps...especially on a 4300 sled...
 

PonySHO

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At the risk of getting off on another tangent :p... thebigjimsho, what are you caddy guys saying about the new SHO?
 

RonPorter

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In addition to SS lines, track pads and Motul600 fluid, I also run Ti brake shims. Every little bit helps...especially on a 4300 sled...

If you want to run Motul 600, go ahead, but you are wasting your money.

Motul 600 is good for heavy NASCAR cars running 500 mile races at 180 mph, but for track events, Valvoline Synthetic is MORE than adequate for anything you do, including track events. Some folks like the ATE fluids, but at 2x the price of Valvoline, they offer little gain over it.

EDIT: Here's the list:

DRY WET
Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 311
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 290
Performance Friction 550 284
Valvoline Synthetic 3/4 502 343
ATE Super Blue Racing 536 392
ATE TYP 200 536 392
ATE SL DOT 4 500 329
Motul Racing 600 585 421
Prospeed GS610 626 417
Castrol SRF 590 518

If you are cooking Valvoline at a typical DE track event, you aren't driving right.
 
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thebigjimsho

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At the risk of getting off on another tangent :p... thebigjimsho, what are you caddy guys saying about the new SHO?

There are a ton of former SHO owners with Vs. Most of us appreciate Ford bringing back the SHO...even if it's nothing like the original. Then there are Ford haters, in general who will hate anything Ford. Some respect the performance and some hate how huge it is and think it's a waste of an engine.

Hard to peg down a dominant faction...
 

thebigjimsho

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If you want to run Motul 600, go ahead, but you are wasting your money.

Motul 600 is good for heavy NASCAR cars running 500 mile races at 180 mph, but for track events, Valvoline Synthetic is MORE than adequate for anything you do, including track events. Some folks like the ATE fluids, but at 2x the price of Valvoline, they offer little gain over it.

I boiled my ATE fluid at VIR running Hawk Blue pads with my Hoosier GAC slicks on a 95 degree day. The V's brakes are pretty potent and after almost losing it entering Turn 1 at VIR, I'm willing to throw anything I can at it to keep the brakes working...
 

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