ATX TDC/Crank Alignment?

[93nighthawk]

Ok after doing numerous searches I have yet to find a definite answers so hear goes.

1. On an ATX you just line up the white line on the Balancer to the 0 on the timming cover correct? I have seen it referenced on many posts about rotating it twice on the 3.0L first.

2. How do you tell when you have the crank on the compression stroke compared to the exhaust stroke?

3. Does #2 really matter?

4. What would cause the engine not to start? (Fuel pump kicks in, engine turns over, tach moves, all I can think is that I have it on the exhaust stroke)

5. Am I over analyzing this?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Slo-Sho]

As long as the crank is at TDC and the cam marks are at TDC the engine is timed. You are refering to valve timing when you say "compression stroke". I'd say check for fuel at the schrader fitting on the rail, do you get a CEL light when the key is turned to "run"? Is the DIS grounded? Double and triple check all the weather packs you have disconnected while you serviced the motor.

 

[93nighthawk]

Sorry if I sound wacked, but it had been one of those days, I just needed some re-assurance.

Ok It does not matter as long as align all the marks, don't have to worry about which stroke it is oh

I'd say check for fuel at the schrader fitting on the rail,

I will do that tomorrow.

do you get a CEL light when the key is turned to "run"?

Yes along with all the other idiot lights.

Is the DIS grounded?

Yes

Double and triple check all the weather packs you have disconnected while you serviced the motor.

I am not sure what you mean by that?

 

[masho95]

1. On an ATX you just line up the white line on the Balancer to the 0 on the timming cover correct? I have seen it referenced on many posts about rotating it twice on the 3.0L first.

The references to rotating the crank around again is if the cam sprocket marks aren't aligned with the rear timing belt cover. Like the other post said if the cam sprocket marks are aligned and the crank is at 0 degrees then the engine is at TDC.

2. How do you tell when you have the crank on the compression stroke compared to the exhaust stroke?

3. Does #2 really matter?

As long as the previous procedure is followed then #2 is irrelevant. The only way you could have mixed up the compression and exhaust stokes if the engine is at TDC is to have changed the cams positions. (if you didn't remove the cams, and the cam marks are lined up it's impossible)

4. What would cause the engine not to start? (Fuel pump kicks in, engine turns over, tach moves, all I can think is that I have it on the exhaust stroke)

Most likely no spark. Check the plug wires for spark. Double check the rear ground on the passenger side upper intake mounting bracket. It's the only one that's held in by a stud. And the ground is attached over the stud with a nut. And make sure the two bolts holding the crossover tube are securely tightened.

5. Am I over analyzing this?

Yes. Check for the basics first. You hear the fuel pump (most likely you have fuel, unless the pump died since your service to the car). And again check for spark. If it's cranking and you see the tach move up, the only other thing you'll need is spark for it to ignite the air/fuel mixture.


Edit: If you have spark also, try pressing the gas pedal to the floor while trying to start it.

<small>[ March 22, 2004, 01:19 AM: Message edited by: masho95 ]</small>

 

[93nighthawk]

Oh, also any tips on how to rotate the crank on an ATX? Spare tire and 5th gear does not work to well on an ATX.

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Put the crank bolt in and use a 19mm socket and rachet.

 

[93nighthawk]

Well the timming is dead on and still no start. madflame

It has been sitting for about a year without being started, (It ran poorly before that due to crank cancer.) I did put new fluids in.

Check for the basics first. You hear the fuel pump (most likely you have fuel, unless the pump died since your service to the car).

I checked the shrader valve and fuel came out so I assume the pump is working. (it is practically brand new)

Double check the rear ground on the passenger side upper intake mounting bracket.

Done, good ground.

More questions:

1. Do the injectors need primed? And if so, how do you do it?

2. How do you check to see if the plugs are getting spark (safely)?

3. How do you tell if the DIS is bad?

4. What other idea's it could be and how to check?

Thank you for your help.

 

[projectSHO89]

93nighthawk:
Well the timming is dead on and still no start. madflame

It has been sitting for about a year without being started, (It ran poorly before that due to crank cancer.) I did put new fluids in.

Check for the basics first. You hear the fuel pump (most likely you have fuel, unless the pump died since your service to the car).

I checked the shrader valve and fuel came out so I assume the pump is working. (it is practically brand new)

Double check the rear ground on the passenger side upper intake mounting bracket.

Done, good ground.

More questions:

1. Do the injectors need primed? And if so, how do you do it?

2. How do you check to see if the plugs are getting spark (safely)?

3. How do you tell if the DIS is bad?

4. What other idea's it could be and how to check?

Thank you for your help.

1. They get "primed" automatically if you have fuel pressure and flow through them

2. Inductive timing light is easiest. A long screwdriver inserted into the plug wire then held next to ground while cranking is cheapest. Don't do this if you have raw fuel around.

3. If the DIS is good, you have spark at the correct time and you have a tach indication while cranking the engine.

4. Check the 10 A fuse in the engine compartment fusebox. If blown, unhook the coolant level sensor before replacing the fuse.

Steve

 

[masho95]

Did you check for spark??

Try starting the car with the gas pedal all the way to the floor.