Sure, if you're interested - will do.
914-SHO Project Thread
- Thread starter 3d914
- Start date
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Well the RSX got pushed off for a couple of weeks. My daughter will be in town next weekend and I'm not certain I'll have it all done by then for her to use. It looks like all the valve train on the K20A3 has to come off to remove the head. You'd think you could leave it all in tact. And I may have to pull the engine anyway to get the timing chain off. So this job could turn into a couple weekends.
Anyway, got to spend time today on the reinforcement for the inner suspension. Made up the patterns, cut them out of 14ga steel, then spent a bunch of time getting the four pieces to fit. Lots of bends in varying directions. At least the patterns I cut for the left side match the right perfectly - so that's one less step.
Anyway, got to spend time today on the reinforcement for the inner suspension. Made up the patterns, cut them out of 14ga steel, then spent a bunch of time getting the four pieces to fit. Lots of bends in varying directions. At least the patterns I cut for the left side match the right perfectly - so that's one less step.
Got the welding done - well 98% of it. I left the radius at the bottom of each support until I get the car up on the rotisserie and can get at them from the side instead of below. I don't really like welding over my head. Reasonably happy with the results. Got a little tight in a view places. Need to look around and see if anyone makes a smaller gun for a wire/gas welder. Of course that won't help in places where my big head and helmet get in the way!
Left side
Right side
Left side
Right side
Off Road SHO
Moderator
Gerard,
Get one of those welding goggles thingy from Miller. Auto darkening but no hard shell, just leather.
Tom
Get one of those welding goggles thingy from Miller. Auto darkening but no hard shell, just leather.
Tom
Really - they make auto-darkening goggles! Cool, I'll check it out. Thanks.
Needed to update the scope of metal work left on the under body and track what's getting done:
Inner suspension (dog-ear) reinforcementModel pieces and weld while on dollyLimit material thickness to 0.075"Remove Doorway supports & keep doors- Repair small sections in floor pan
- Install engman inner long kit while on dolly
- Weld outer body patch panels - currently exposing wheel wells (L & R)
- Cement L side to FG flare
SHOdded was interested in the work I was doing on the RSX, so here's where I'm at.
Started with the intent to replace seals & gaskets down to the head gasket and restore the stock air intake. This is the K20A3 2.0L motor used in a couple of hondas. So this is what I'm starting with. First thing you'll notice is this wanna-be cold air intake added by a previous PO before two of my kids owned it.
So to start, off comes the following:
What remained then was the:
So here's where my plans changed. In order to remove the head - you can only get to the head bolts by removing the OH valve train assembly - which means removing the timing chain & tensioner - which means removing the cover for these - which means removing the drive belt & crank pulley - which basically leads to removing the engine. However, this is one of the few 4-cyl motors I've encountered that are removed from below, not above. I had no intent in tackling that without a lift.
On inspection of the drive belt, it was still in decent shape and the tensioner for it was within the allowable range. So when that needs replaced and if I have a lift by that time, then maybe I'll do the head.
So instead I'll continue to replace seals and gaskets for the valve-cover and outer parts. I also needed to replace the exhaust header since the stock one had developed some leaks. So it may have lost its not-so-cool CAI, but it did gain some exhaust bling.
OK, got the factory air box, that I found used on ebay, in. Had to buy the mounting hardware from the dealer though - recycler didn't have it (or didn't want to mess with it). Just as well - what was there was rusted so it got replaced too.
Bad news though - the air tubing that routes from the TB to the air box is not the correct one. Must have been from another model. Soooo - off I go to hunt down the correct one.
Started with the intent to replace seals & gaskets down to the head gasket and restore the stock air intake. This is the K20A3 2.0L motor used in a couple of hondas. So this is what I'm starting with. First thing you'll notice is this wanna-be cold air intake added by a previous PO before two of my kids owned it.
So to start, off comes the following:
- Battery & harnesses
- air intake
- drain oil & coolant
- disconnect throttle & cruise cables
- throttle body
- engine covers, etc
What remained then was the:
- injectors and fuel rail
- intake manifold
- Coil Over Plug assemblies
- Plug wiring harness
- valve cover
So here's where my plans changed. In order to remove the head - you can only get to the head bolts by removing the OH valve train assembly - which means removing the timing chain & tensioner - which means removing the cover for these - which means removing the drive belt & crank pulley - which basically leads to removing the engine. However, this is one of the few 4-cyl motors I've encountered that are removed from below, not above. I had no intent in tackling that without a lift.
On inspection of the drive belt, it was still in decent shape and the tensioner for it was within the allowable range. So when that needs replaced and if I have a lift by that time, then maybe I'll do the head.
So instead I'll continue to replace seals and gaskets for the valve-cover and outer parts. I also needed to replace the exhaust header since the stock one had developed some leaks. So it may have lost its not-so-cool CAI, but it did gain some exhaust bling.
OK, got the factory air box, that I found used on ebay, in. Had to buy the mounting hardware from the dealer though - recycler didn't have it (or didn't want to mess with it). Just as well - what was there was rusted so it got replaced too.
Bad news though - the air tubing that routes from the TB to the air box is not the correct one. Must have been from another model. Soooo - off I go to hunt down the correct one.
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Great place for the CAI to draw air fromToo bad the heads have to wait another day, do like the shiny exhaust header. Aftermarket, I presume?
Yeh, I stumbled across the header on ebay. They're made primarily for the track crowd, but fortunately they fit like stock and are better material at lower price. That's the pain with something that has the Acura name vs Honda - automatic price hike. Fortunately this motor is used in hondas also.
Nope. Its running great though. Intermittent hesitation is gone, its much quieter without exhaust leak, and it has much better throttle response.
Spent yesterday building a base and mounting bracket for a bird house my wife has. She got my daughter (the artist) to paint it - came out real nice. Any excuse to melt-metal is OK with me.
Spent part of the time deciding how I was going to handle the rust areas on the 914 left floor. Got it cleaned up enough to tell that it was mostly surface rust as first suspected. There are a couple of thru holes though, so I got around to cutting those out today. Couldn't cut from the inside, so I drilled holes at the corners of my cutouts, and used those as a guide to cut from underneath. Cutting, shaping, and fitting wasn't too bad - since the parts are small and relatively easy shapes.
These floors are less than 16ga, so butt-weldings gonna be a challenge - especially where they're located. I'd like to just get them tacked in and finish them once the car's on the rotisserie. I have some reinforcement panels that go in the cockpit along the longitudinals and back cross-member first though - while its still on the dolly. I'll need to sort out if there's any interference with these patches before I decide how far to take the welding.
Here's the back-left cutout.
And the front-left cutout.
Got the pieces fit and ready to spot weld.
Spent part of the time deciding how I was going to handle the rust areas on the 914 left floor. Got it cleaned up enough to tell that it was mostly surface rust as first suspected. There are a couple of thru holes though, so I got around to cutting those out today. Couldn't cut from the inside, so I drilled holes at the corners of my cutouts, and used those as a guide to cut from underneath. Cutting, shaping, and fitting wasn't too bad - since the parts are small and relatively easy shapes.
These floors are less than 16ga, so butt-weldings gonna be a challenge - especially where they're located. I'd like to just get them tacked in and finish them once the car's on the rotisserie. I have some reinforcement panels that go in the cockpit along the longitudinals and back cross-member first though - while its still on the dolly. I'll need to sort out if there's any interference with these patches before I decide how far to take the welding.
Here's the back-left cutout.
And the front-left cutout.
Got the pieces fit and ready to spot weld.
Had some time this weekend to work on two 914's. My son wants to get his running and take over to CA. It's now in the garage on stands and getting prepped for some minor maintenance, gas tank replacement, and maybe fuel lines.
I dug out the Engman reinforcement kit I bought for the inner longitudinals in the cockpit. There are three pieces that cover three sides - left, back, & right. I wanted to check the fit for the left side and see whether it would block access to the patch I need to weld. . .
Yep, it does.
That means I'll have to do at least the side welding from the outside before I put the reinforcement piece in. I need to be able to get a copper backing plate behind the weld when working on the thin flooring material. Not what I was hoping for - but gotta be done that way.
Here's shots of test fit for left, back & right sides. All the seam sealer had to be cleaned away from bottoms and corners so pieces fit flush. I'll get all the rust on the floors along these pieces cleaned and treated before starting to weld - since the corners won't be as easily accessible afterward.
I dug out the Engman reinforcement kit I bought for the inner longitudinals in the cockpit. There are three pieces that cover three sides - left, back, & right. I wanted to check the fit for the left side and see whether it would block access to the patch I need to weld. . .
Yep, it does.
That means I'll have to do at least the side welding from the outside before I put the reinforcement piece in. I need to be able to get a copper backing plate behind the weld when working on the thin flooring material. Not what I was hoping for - but gotta be done that way.
Here's shots of test fit for left, back & right sides. All the seam sealer had to be cleaned away from bottoms and corners so pieces fit flush. I'll get all the rust on the floors along these pieces cleaned and treated before starting to weld - since the corners won't be as easily accessible afterward.
OK - one more thing to cross off the list of what's getting done:
Now its on to rust treatment of the floor before I start more welding.
Inner suspension (dog-ear) reinforcementModel pieces and weld while on dollyLimit material thickness to 0.075"Remove Doorway supports & keep doorsRepair small sections in floor pan- Install engman inner long kit while on dolly
- Weld outer body patch panels - currently exposing wheel wells (L & R)
- Cement L side to FG flare
Now its on to rust treatment of the floor before I start more welding.
OK, got the floor rust treated and started cleanup of the dried glue from the factory rubber panels. Also figured that the primer will have to be limited to just the rust areas until I'm done with the rotisserie work. There are some areas that need too much work (heat and hammering) in order to straighten.
Also - I need to figure out my seating arrangement. I'm not using the stock seats, but may use the stock seat track. I'm also looking at other options. The wife's Mini has nice seat adjuster for distance and height/angle. Maybe even the stock SHO's manual seat adjuster might be worth looking into. I would need some diagrams or pictures to tell. Since I have the 944 seats - its just a matter of coming up with an adapter to mount them.
Also - I need to figure out my seating arrangement. I'm not using the stock seats, but may use the stock seat track. I'm also looking at other options. The wife's Mini has nice seat adjuster for distance and height/angle. Maybe even the stock SHO's manual seat adjuster might be worth looking into. I would need some diagrams or pictures to tell. Since I have the 944 seats - its just a matter of coming up with an adapter to mount them.
Had some time during the week to make some metal plates to replace the dried out rubber ones that cover the four oval openings in the longs. I spot welded the rear ones in place and ground the welds down so they won't interfere with the reinforcement pieces. For the fronts, I'm going to widen the cutouts in the reinforcements so these plugs can be cemented or screwed in. This will allow me to use these in the future if I want to route coolant hoses from the front and thru the longs.
I also sprayed primer along the bottom edges where the longs meet the floor before I attach the reinforcements. It will difficult to get primer up in there once they're welded on. Now I just need to redrill some holes, add my cutouts, grind some edges, and clean the reinforcement pieces. I found some nice welding clamps at HF to use to hold pieces in place to start welding. I'll spread my welds out to tack each side down, then continue from there.
I also sprayed primer along the bottom edges where the longs meet the floor before I attach the reinforcements. It will difficult to get primer up in there once they're welded on. Now I just need to redrill some holes, add my cutouts, grind some edges, and clean the reinforcement pieces. I found some nice welding clamps at HF to use to hold pieces in place to start welding. I'll spread my welds out to tack each side down, then continue from there.
Got the mods to the left reinforcement piece done this evening. I added a cutout at the forward oval section to provide access to the heater tube inside the long. This will get a metal plate to fit that I'll cement or screw on. I also scribed two lines to improve the bends for the recessed portion of the long - which provides access to the e-brake handle. And my seatbelt attachment point didn't fit centered in the slot intended for it so a notch was needed.
