914-SHO Project Thread
- Thread starter 3d914
- Start date
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That radiator fan makes a great cooling fan if you have a spare 12V 2A charger laying about
Off Road SHO
Moderator
2 Amp?
Yeah, why?
Off Road SHO
Moderator
Is that all those fans draw? I thought they draw more like 30-50 amps.
Tom
Tom
I'm sure they can draw a lot more, but when using them to ventilate your garage you don't want them running at full speed!
Unless you want a new hairstyle!
Unless you want a new hairstyle!
Off Road SHO
Moderator
If they only drew 2 amps they would be fed by little 24 gauge wires. Instead they are fed by 10 gauge wires, protected by a huge 40 amp fuse. At only 12 volts, it takes a lot of current to move air.
Tom
Tom
Maybe I am being unclear...
You CAN run it at 2 A, which is what I do, when I connect it to my charger in my garage to ventilate the garage. Feel free to do the same and feed it 50 A.
You CAN run it at 2 A, which is what I do, when I connect it to my charger in my garage to ventilate the garage. Feel free to do the same and feed it 50 A.
Off Road SHO
Moderator
Ah, I see what you're doing now.
Tom
Tom
Still working on the car & the cabinets. Mostly grinding welds on the car - and there are lots of em. Will get some pics once I get it done and primed.
Decided how to finish the cabinet doors. Didn't want to spend an arm & a leg for hardwood, but needed something straight. My neighbor had some 12-foot 1x6s he was willing to sell so I started with those. They're kiln-dried #2 so they have more knots than I'd like, but their straight - so I'll live with it. After all they'll be painted garage cabinet doors - so I'm trying to keep my perspective and not go overboard.
The real challenge was finding 3/8 panels to fit in the style & rails. I went to one HD and two Lowes before I could find some straight sheets. I decided on these siding panels with grooves & decided to run the grooves horizontally - just to be different.
Here's some pics of the rough fit before any sanding.
Decided how to finish the cabinet doors. Didn't want to spend an arm & a leg for hardwood, but needed something straight. My neighbor had some 12-foot 1x6s he was willing to sell so I started with those. They're kiln-dried #2 so they have more knots than I'd like, but their straight - so I'll live with it. After all they'll be painted garage cabinet doors - so I'm trying to keep my perspective and not go overboard.
The real challenge was finding 3/8 panels to fit in the style & rails. I went to one HD and two Lowes before I could find some straight sheets. I decided on these siding panels with grooves & decided to run the grooves horizontally - just to be different.
Here's some pics of the rough fit before any sanding.
Still doing welding and grinding on the 914 longs in the wheel-wells. Also spent one whole day ripping, cutting and grooving all the panels, rails, and styles for the remaining 18 doors.
Fortunately there are only a couple pieces that I'll need to replace since they're slightly curved. The rest are nice and straight, so assembly can commence later next week. I've got training certification I need to complete nights next week - so no garage time until Friday.
Fortunately there are only a couple pieces that I'll need to replace since they're slightly curved. The rest are nice and straight, so assembly can commence later next week. I've got training certification I need to complete nights next week - so no garage time until Friday.
Been working on cabinet doors when I can. Been too cold to do much on the car. Laid out the scope of metal work left on the under body though:
Move body to rotisserie
- Inner suspension (dog-ear) reinforcement
- Model pieces and weld while on dolly
- Limit material thickness to 0.075"
- Remove Doorway supports & keep doors
- Repair small sections in floor pan
- Install engman inner long kit while on dolly
- Weld outer body patch panels - currently exposing wheel wells (L & R)
- Cement L side to FG flare
Move body to rotisserie
- Inner suspension (lower) reinforcement
- Finish fitment with body on rotisserie
- Cut, shape and weld pieces
See image: http://www.shospeed.com/gallery/gallery/image.php?album_id=98&image_id=2974
See image: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads19/70+Porsche+914+6+GT+Project+Photo+1571317748740.jpg - Rear jack points (left & right)
Order parts from Restoration Design
Need body on rotisserie to complete welding - Repair pedal cluster area in floor pan
- Close-off remaining floor pan stamped holes
- Seal under-body and wheel wells as needed with undercoating
Haven't been working much on the car lately - been really burnt out. Getting ramped back up though as the weather starts to improve some. Decided to do something constructive and non-maintenance - so I hung up my schematics that I mounted on some thin fiber board. There are two pages for the 914 wiring and two for the SHO motor wiring.
I expect to reference these a great deal as I rewire the car and the engine.
I expect to reference these a great deal as I rewire the car and the engine.
Definitely all new wiring. What would be gained by upping the wire gauge beyond OEM?
Been decent weather this weekend so spent some time on the cabinet doors. Not happy with a couple of the smaller doors - they have slight warp to them. Will likely take both apart and try to reassemble if pieces aren't too bad. Otherwise they'll get redone.
Finally got all the rough and finish grinding done on the wheel well reinforcements. If I take this kind of job on again, the fenders are coming off completely. Makes everything else more work with them on. I'll get some pics up once I get them primed - hopefully this week if I have any daylight after work.
Next weekend the RSX gets a 160K mile service. Gonna tear it down past the heads to check valves, replace seals, gaskets, belts, etc.
Next weekend the RSX gets a 160K mile service. Gonna tear it down past the heads to check valves, replace seals, gaskets, belts, etc.
