85k and spun two rod bearings - What to do?

[FAST4DR]

Can you believe that? 85,000 miles and the engine started knocking. My car is in tip top shape. Mobil 1 since new changed regularly, Mobil 1 and K&N oil filters used, 60 k done, new water pump, all new sensors, gaskets, etc. I replaced stuff that didn't really need replaced. I even already had the rod bearings, since I was planning on changing them soon as preventative maintenance. Well, I guess I didn't change them soon enough. When it started making the noise or actually when I realized that it was, it sounded like it was coming from down low and I figured rod bearing, but didn't really want to accept it. So I dropped the pan and the oil pan had a lot of copper shavings in the bottom of it. It spun the 3rd bearing over from the flywheel and the 5th, counting from the flywheel side. The 3rd one over left marks on the crank that you can feel with your finger, but the 5th one over had just begun to spin and was very smooth. I figured what do I have to loose, so I got some crocus cloth and tried to polish the crank, but it didn't seem to do much. I decided to put new bearings in all of them. I plastigaged the spun bearings and they were actually in spec. Got it all back together and when I started it up, it was very smooth and I thought allright!, maybe that will last for a while. Yeah, It lasted for about 20 miles and started knocking again. Soooo, I guess I need a new engine.

So that's my question, what to do?

1. Put in another crank without problems?
2. FPS has a <12000 mile 3.0 motor ($2000) or they have a rebuilt and bored 3.3 motor $3000 for just the short block.
3. Junkyard 3.2 and change everything over.
4. $1200 ebay motor with less than 52,000(so they say)

Talked to somebody and they said don't regrind the crank, because it is hardened and won't last long if you regrind it and put in undersize bearings. Is this true?

My car is too nice to not fix it up right. I kinda like the idea of new stuff, since just about everything else on the car is new.

What should I do?

Will

 

[artsho]

Fix Fix Fix Fix

 

[SASHO91]

there is a crank on ebay right now.... just fyi....

 

[BlackandBlue]

I had a 3.2 built by FPS (HC, JE, etc...). I loved how free reving the engine was. I would go for the 3.3.
Eric

 

[jedhead]

$3000 for a 3.3 short block is too much money. You can do it for far less yourself. I would contact Brian,GoofSHO, and see if he can give you a better price. A good machine shop can turn your crank and re-harden the surface. The cam grinder reharden the cam surface after machining.

Bob

 

[sho_sc]

It all has to do with how much $$ you want to spend.

Yes, cranks can be turned (that's why they make undersized bearings) .. I ran a blower SHO for 30K miles with 0.10 under bearings.

Cheapest thing would be pull the engine and have a machine shop machine the crank and do a basic rebuild. Don't be surprised if you need a rod or two, they get hot and warp when the bearings turn. That's where most people go wrong, they don't realize that the rods warp due to heat. Watching where you purchase your parts, and you doing the wrenching it can be done for around $800-$900. *note - Boring it to a 3.3 would basically cost you the pistons and the machine work.

With a Junkyard 3.2, you will need to do the bearings and bottom end gaskets likewise, so that adds about $200 to the cost.

Purchasing from FPS, you will still need headgaskets and do the wrenching.

 

[shomesomesho]

For cost-effectiveness, I would go with a 3.2L with refreshed gaskets/seals/rod bearings, etc. with 3.0 heads/cams. It may not be the cheapest route but is the most bang for the buck IMHO.

The slightly bigger capacity 3.2 oil pump may help preserve the rod bearings in the long run. You just don't hear of as many 3.2's throwing rod bearings as much as 3.0's. Because of the bigger oil pump or because 3.2's/ATX's aren't driven as hard?? who knows..

3.3L if money were no object.

3.0's are just too slow NA.

 

[SHOtimer]

what to do?

...stop using Mobil 1.

I would either pick up the j/yard 3.2, or the low mileage 3.0 - the 3.3 seems way to pricey to me. And you won't be able to reuse the rods, so swapping the crank would seem like too much work to me.

Doug

 

[SolidState]

that's FPS, for ya...3g, eh? I can probably count many of them they are going to sell on less than one hand.

I say...now is a good time to consider a nice motor upgrade. I'd bore the 3.0L to a 3.2L and put some high compression pistons in it. Find a new crank, check the rods, add some +20 cams....I bet it would cost a touch more than 3g with you wrenching, and will be one stout motor when finished!

I bet the >12k mile engine is a bondurant motor...and personally, I wouldn't just slap one of those into my car without a tear down and rebuild....

 

[FAST4DR]

Thanks for the suggestions. Yeah, I think 3k is a little much for the 3.3 also. I live out in a small town and am not familiar with the local machine shops. I have never rebuilt a motor before so I am green to that also. I will have to talk to a speedshop that I know about and see what they say. I definately think I will need a new rod because that one bearing spun a good bit inside of it. I can do all the wrenching, so that is not a problem, just takes me a little while, since I don't have a lot of time.

I could get a new crank and a couple rods and take my short block to the machine shop and tell them to bore it to 3.3 and put in new pistons, etc. Would I need to run a tweecer or anything to get it running right or will the stock computer compensate?

I have even thought to just buy a decent crank and change it out myself, with the motor still in the car and change the two rods that spun and put it all back together. I could do that right? Just pull the tranny out and the crank pully, etc. off. and then I could drop the crank right? That way I wouldn't have to mess with the heads and accessories, etc. Good idea or no?

Will
Will

 

[S&MSHO]

http://www.nesho.com/products.htm

they have some engines down twoards the bottom for yah

 

[sho_sc]

Thanks for the suggestions. Yeah, I think 3k is a little much for the 3.3 also. I live out in a small town and am not familiar with the local machine shops. I have never rebuilt a motor before so I am green to that also. I will have to talk to a speedshop that I know about and see what they say. I definately think I will need a new rod because that one bearing spun a good bit inside of it. I can do all the wrenching, so that is not a problem, just takes me a little while, since I don't have a lot of time.

I could get a new crank and a couple rods and take my short block to the machine shop and tell them to bore it to 3.3 and put in new pistons, etc. Would I need to run a tweecer or anything to get it running right or will the stock computer compensate?

I have even thought to just buy a decent crank and change it out myself, with the motor still in the car and change the two rods that spun and put it all back together. I could do that right? Just pull the tranny out and the crank pully, etc. off. and then I could drop the crank right? That way I wouldn't have to mess with the heads and accessories, etc. Good idea or no?

Will
Will

Yes, the crank can be replaced with the tranny out and the front of the engine removed .. and an extra person, it's heavy.

 

[Jonny Cash]

Can you believe that? 85,000 miles and the engine started knocking. My car is in tip top shape. Mobil 1 since new changed regularly, Mobil 1 and K&N oil filters used, 60 k done, new water pump, all new sensors, gaskets, etc. I replaced stuff that didn't really need replaced. I even already had the rod bearings, since I was planning on changing them soon as preventative maintenance. Well, I guess I didn't change them soon enough. When it started making the noise or actually when I realized that it was, it sounded like it was coming from down low and I figured rod bearing, but didn't really want to accept it. So I dropped the pan and the oil pan had a lot of copper shavings in the bottom of it. It spun the 3rd bearing over from the flywheel and the 5th, counting from the flywheel side. The 3rd one over left marks on the crank that you can feel with your finger, but the 5th one over had just begun to spin and was very smooth. I figured what do I have to loose, so I got some crocus cloth and tried to polish the crank, but it didn't seem to do much. I decided to put new bearings in all of them. I plastigaged the spun bearings and they were actually in spec. Got it all back together and when I started it up, it was very smooth and I thought allright!, maybe that will last for a while. Yeah, It lasted for about 20 miles and started knocking again. Soooo, I guess I need a new engine.

So that's my question, what to do?

1. Put in another crank without problems?
2. FPS has a <12000 mile 3.0 motor ($2000) or they have a rebuilt and bored 3.3 motor $3000 for just the short block.
3. Junkyard 3.2 and change everything over.
4. $1200 ebay motor with less than 52,000(so they say)

Talked to somebody and they said don't regrind the crank, because it is hardened and won't last long if you regrind it and put in undersize bearings. Is this true?

My car is too nice to not fix it up right. I kinda like the idea of new stuff, since just about everything else on the car is new.

What should I do?

Will

thats sucks.

Id go with number 3.

But going with bigger pistons and having the cylinders bored out isnt a bad idea either. I would talk to some machinists.

 

[SolidState]

personally, I don't see the point fo going to a 3.3...

 

[HoustinoJillian]

yeah isnt the 3.3 a 3.26 technically anyway (IIRC)? i've got a 3.2 MTX w/3.0 heads/cams. its got great pull. i'd say go that route

 

[SeanMc]

For me, $3600 = JE, HC, S2 cams, ported and polished heads = installed.