$500 reward!!!

[Off Road SHO]

I'm hoping he doesn't post a vid of the firemen cleaning up and putting away hoses...


Tom

 

[CWhalenSHO]

I'm hoping he doesn't post a vid of the firemen cleaning up and putting away hoses...


Tom[/QU

Nope....

 

[strings1732]

Have you tried putting the socket and ratchet on it with the ratchet towards the back of the motor(you can use a block of wood to hold it in place, and i highly recommend this), and using the starter bump method? To let it spin more freely, take out all the spark plugs so the motor isn't trying to make compression while you're doing this. even doing this with the typical starter bump method might work.

The other way I have in mind is starting the motor while an impact gun/socket and maybe an extension is on the bolt. The motor will spin the impact gun with ease. once the motor is idling, start the impact gun(obviously in reverse) and it should generate enough torque to loosen the bolt or stall the motor. If the motor stalls, try again with the motor revved up higher. Don't let the motor spin too much while the impact gun is hooked up as it may destroy the impact gun with prolonged exposure. You have to remember the motor will be spinning at over 1,000 rpms after you first start it. it might be a good idea to go buy a small compressor and impact gun of your own, or borrow one from a friend....

The first method I stated has worked well in the past, but the 2X4 holding the ratchet on is kind of a pain to figure out.

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

Sorry the video isn't up yet. The interwebz at the house went down. I'll try to post it today from work.


!

 

[Off Road SHO]

Well?????

 

[SHOmethewayhome]

vids or ban.

 

[CWhalenSHO]

Come on bro get those vids up...

:thankyou:

 

[JRA2000TL]

Damn has this bolt still not come off? This is the very reason I avoid working on my SHO and often give up quickly when I attempt it. I once spent a couple of hours hammering the **** out of a tie rod end trying to free it from the knuckle only to have someone come and assist me and after 3 whacks it broke free. I proceeded to say a few bad things.

 

[SHOmethewayhome]

Damn has this bolt still not come off? This is the very reason I avoid working on my SHO and often give up quickly when I attempt it. I once spent a couple of hours hammering the **** out of a tie rod end trying to free it from the knuckle only to have someone come and assist me and after 3 whacks it broke free. I proceeded to say a few bad things.

shoulda hit it with your purse

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

Ok, here ya go!!

Sorry guys, the internet at the house has SUCKED!!

First Video:





Second:




AND FINALLY!!

 

[kikkinasphalt]

well then......

 

[SHOmethewayhome]

Tom once again proves the reason why he is the head of a multi-hundred dollar corporation.

 

[Brett]

hahahaha! that's great.

 

[SolidState]

uh, well.

The purpose of Tom's tool was so that you didn't need to use a hole saw to remove he ******. It was to neutralize the crank so you can put a lot of torque on the bolt...

Good work, though.

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

uh, well.

The purpose of Tom's tool was so that you didn't need to use a hole saw to remove he ******. It was to neutralize the crank so you can put a lot of torque on the bolt...

Good work, though.

Well, we wanted to make our best effort. there was no WAY I was expecting it to make it that much easier.

Also, the only place to brace toms tool was the axle. It was a little, um, long. I didn't want to put too much pressure on the axle.


TOM! WE NEED A NAME FOR THIS TOOL OF YOURS!!!

 

[SHOmethewayhome]

how about... the 'Bringer of pain'

 

[Off Road SHO]

Why didn't you guys call me? The tool was designed to rest against the bottom of the front of the subframe, however, the axle is plenty strong if you followed my instructions of resting the tool's handle against it before applying force. Oh well.

I had made another crank holding tool years ago that used the flywheel's ring gear and anchored it to the block using the starter's mounting hole on block. But this method (that I copied from a VDub tool that I made back in 73) required removing the starter and the associated headaches that goes with it AND more importantly, the crank would absorb some of the twisting torque applied by the cheater bar. The crank would actually twist a little and I was worried about damaging something. That is why I came up with the new improved big tool of mine. We should have a naming contest. Maybe something like Tom's Johnson Tool.

Tom

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

Why didn't you guys call me? The tool was designed to rest against the bottom of the front of the subframe, however, the axle is plenty strong if you followed my instructions of resting the tool's handle against it before applying force. Oh well.

I had made another crank holding tool years ago that used the flywheel's ring gear and anchored it to the block using the starter's mounting hole on block. But this method (that I copied from a VDub tool that I made back in 73) required removing the starter and the associated headaches that goes with it AND more importantly, the crank would absorb some of the twisting torque applied by the cheater bar. The crank would actually twist a little and I was worried about damaging something. That is why I came up with the new improved big tool of mine.

Tom

We tried to place it on any part of the SF but it was just too long. We also made sure that any and all slack was gone. I wasn't going to play any games and that's when we decided to cut the ****** of the bolt too. Found another bolt on ebay and I'm absolutly sure that your tool would get the job done.


Where should we put the naming contest post? Calling it your tool is getting a little wierd. lol

 

[gmorrell]

So when do we get to see a close-up of Tom's massive tool?

 

[Brett]

So when do we get to see a close-up of Tom's massive tool?

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