$500 reward!!!
- Thread starter CWhalenSHO
- Start date
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Marccus
New Member
Soak the bolt / thread area with Wurth Rost-Off (a German company product- buy at carcareonline.com) a penetrating lubricant that has never failed me even for exhaust studs. Surpasses PB Blaster in its ability to losten frozen bolts.
Then freeze the bolt with a freeze spray for mechanics. If you can't find it in a auto parts store, go to an electronics store like Fry's Electronics and buy a similar product that is used to find electrical circuit faults. This will cool the bolt to -30F.
Then hit it again with the starter bump method. Freezing to -30F should break even any "welding" that may have occurred between the threads and the bolt.
If that doesn't work, try freezing to -30F, then heating with a torch, freezing, heating, etc., several times, then bump it again.
If that fails, then someone has pulled a fast one on you and installed left hand threads.
Then freeze the bolt with a freeze spray for mechanics. If you can't find it in a auto parts store, go to an electronics store like Fry's Electronics and buy a similar product that is used to find electrical circuit faults. This will cool the bolt to -30F.
Then hit it again with the starter bump method. Freezing to -30F should break even any "welding" that may have occurred between the threads and the bolt.
If that doesn't work, try freezing to -30F, then heating with a torch, freezing, heating, etc., several times, then bump it again.
If that fails, then someone has pulled a fast one on you and installed left hand threads.
CWhalenSHO
New Member
My only concern with this would be that once the Bolt gets that cold, it would cause it to become brittle and I could possibly break it once I apply force.
You are now at the point that the bolt cannot be saved, so a new one will be needed. As far as getting the old one out, I have a simple and effective way to get it out.
Get yourself a 1/2 inch hole saw. This will just fit over the head of the bolt and will cut the flat "washer" part of the bolt. Once you cut through the ****** and meet the dampener, it should thread wright out. I have done this more than once when the starter bump methoid has failed, or the head of the bolt is damages beyond saving.
Have you tried having someone stand on a 4ft cheater bar and hit the end of it with a 12 pound sledge hammer?
CWhalenSHO
New Member
This I haven't done. SHO ROLLER and I did use a LONG piece of pipe for a cheater bar. I'm concerned that if I keep trying to use a socket and breaker bar, I'm going to end up just stripping the bolt or breaking it.
Then I'm going to be up to my elbows in a motor swap and that's not something I would feel comfortable undertaking.
Off Road SHO
Moderator
Two things wrong with that suggestion; One the breaker bar needs to go up since the motor is still in the car. Two, the impact is lessened when you use a longer arm. The hammer method might work if you could get a good swing at a short, super thick bar fastened really well to the socket.
Just wait for my tool. It works 100% of the time.
Tom
NEp8ntballer
cyber ninja
I could have a field day making innuendous comments out of that...
Off Road SHO
Moderator
Oh well, thankfully THAT tool still works, most of the time...
Tom
Tom
38SHO
#1 Oil Abuser
make sure you use a good socket too
I would get a snapon socket for this operation, something that is stuck so good that it requires more then normal force, requires more then normal tools....
if you get the locking tool on, and you have a big ass pipe on there, one of a few things is going to happen
the bolt will come off.....
the bolt will break(I'm sure its happened, but thats a strong ass bolt)
the socket doesn't fit well and with the increased torque is just rounds the edges of the bolt off
or
your cheap socket cracks down the side, opens up and... rounds the bolt edges.....
I still like the air gun idea better, because its impacts that really break things loose.... if your set on using a pipe, maybe take a socket, put it on the crank pulley bolt head, and wack the socket with a hammer a few times...... the guy mentioned above about using the proper gun with the proper sized hose... and the action of the intial impact while the air hose is full of pressure, breaks things loose very good. I have a strong 1/2" air gun, I love it... and its about the strongest 1/2" gun you will normally see....
every now in then I run into something I can't get off... I don't care if you let that 1/2" gun hammer on there for 30 seconds, its not doing it......
break out the 3/4, with the right socket(extensions, adapters, and deep sockets bring your power down), plug in the bigger air hose for it... and then I tap the trigger for a second..... it breaks it loose so easily you won't believe it
proper methods and tools for certain jobs like this make your life 1,000 times easier....
I would get a snapon socket for this operation, something that is stuck so good that it requires more then normal force, requires more then normal tools....
if you get the locking tool on, and you have a big ass pipe on there, one of a few things is going to happen
the bolt will come off.....
the bolt will break(I'm sure its happened, but thats a strong ass bolt)
the socket doesn't fit well and with the increased torque is just rounds the edges of the bolt off
or
your cheap socket cracks down the side, opens up and... rounds the bolt edges.....
I still like the air gun idea better, because its impacts that really break things loose.... if your set on using a pipe, maybe take a socket, put it on the crank pulley bolt head, and wack the socket with a hammer a few times...... the guy mentioned above about using the proper gun with the proper sized hose... and the action of the intial impact while the air hose is full of pressure, breaks things loose very good. I have a strong 1/2" air gun, I love it... and its about the strongest 1/2" gun you will normally see....
every now in then I run into something I can't get off... I don't care if you let that 1/2" gun hammer on there for 30 seconds, its not doing it......
break out the 3/4, with the right socket(extensions, adapters, and deep sockets bring your power down), plug in the bigger air hose for it... and then I tap the trigger for a second..... it breaks it loose so easily you won't believe it
proper methods and tools for certain jobs like this make your life 1,000 times easier....
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CWhalenSHO
New Member
They mobile repair guy that came over did have a bigger impact gun. Not sure if it was a 3/4' or 1" but that SOB was huge!!! Problem was, the impact socket was a 1/2" drive and he didn't have a reducer on his truck.
I would love to be able to use a big impact gun and with a proper sized hose...I simply don't have access to these tools so the pipe method is about the only choice I have short of cutting the bolt off as mentioned in a previous post. That is pretty much the last thing I want to do.
I'm going to wait and see what Tom has come up with and use that. He sent me a PM stating that it's on it's way...I'll keep everyone posted.
Thanks for all the advice everyone. :thankyou:
ckinney89sho
fo SHO
dude, oxygen and acetylene torches. get it till the bolt is glowing RED and i mean lava. it'll zing off with the impact. make sure you do just the head. do you have any heating and A/C buddies, they will have torches that you need.
1bad98SHO
New Member
I have a feeling this tool will take place of a spark plug for a little while!
Off Road SHO
Moderator
St Louis SHO
Rollin' coal
200 ft lb will break a piston.
When you get the tool from Tom, get your camera rolling so we can see the result when you go to break the bolt loose with your cheater pipe(s).
FWIW, if or when you strip the head of the bolt, the Craftsmans #13 bolt-out will remove the crank bolt for you. I used a 6-point impact socket on mine, had the pulley locked in place, used a 6-7 foot breaker bar (felt like 10 foot lol) and stripped the bolt head while flying myself into the hood and engine bay. I then went ahead and drilled in the ******, installed the bolt-out, tapped the impact, and was done with the removal when I decided to try the job a month later. It took about a year for me to get that bolt off, most of the time just deciding to put everything back together and keep adding oil to the ****! The impacts that also failed me were CP, Snap-On, and Craftsman, supplied with air from a huge shop tank that sits outside the shop (supply wasn't the problem). The bolt just wasn't coming out without being destroyed and ******* me off, so it stays in my sock drawer now so I can see it every morning and start my day off smiling because I let something that small and useless get to my head and it beat me up...
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F-22 Raptor SHO
New Member
Hmmm.....now that I am actually reading the forums more than once every 3 months, I now understand the call made to my house for some magical measurements Mr. Tom. I am going to file a patent for those measurements so the proceeds of this boondoggle go towards building the prison I'm locking my daughter in once she reaches the dating age.
CWhalenSHO
New Member
When you get the tool from Tom, get your camera rolling so we can see the result when you go to break the bolt loose with your cheater pipe(s).
FWIW, if or when you strip the head of the bolt, the Craftsmans #13 bolt-out will remove the crank bolt for you. I used a 6-point impact socket on mine, had the pulley locked in place, used a 6-7 foot breaker bar (felt like 10 foot lol) and stripped the bolt head while flying myself into the hood and engine bay. I then went ahead and drilled in the ******, installed the bolt-out, tapped the impact, and was done with the removal when I decided to try the job a month later. It took about a year for me to get that bolt off, most of the time just deciding to put everything back together and keep adding oil to the ****! The impacts that also failed me were CP, Snap-On, and Craftsman, supplied with air from a huge shop tank that sits outside the shop (supply wasn't the problem). The bolt just wasn't coming out without being destroyed and ******* me off, so it stays in my sock drawer now so I can see it every morning and start my day off smiling because I let something that small and useless get to my head and it beat me up...
I see myself or Tony flying into the windshield of my car while trying to remove the bolt....I thought he was going to fly into it last weekend but alas, no luck....I'll certainly have the video camera rolling on our next attempt. :laugh_ti:
BTW, anyone have a spare Crank Bolt laying around just in case my current one gets destroyed?
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