cook93SLOSHO
1CRZYMTHFKR
So, I've noticed chatter about this. At what point do they need it? Why? How's it done? Have to pull the engine or is it doable with the engine in car.?
TIA ~ Matt.
TIA ~ Matt.
3.0 rod bearings. What's that all about?
- Thread starter cook93SLOSHO
- Start date
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Rod bearings: SHO Source
They should be replaced around every 120-150k. Mine went out at 200k with track time.
The engine is ******* the bearings and the wear out over time. oil type and frequency affects this as well.
You can do it with the engine in the car, just drop the oil pan.
They should be replaced around every 120-150k. Mine went out at 200k with track time.
The engine is ******* the bearings and the wear out over time. oil type and frequency affects this as well.
You can do it with the engine in the car, just drop the oil pan.
You have almost 100K on the car now, do you know the service history? Definitely don't wait till you start hearing a lot of knock. Relatively cheap insurance. If the oil pressure light also starts flickering, you could be in deep trouble. Bearings vary in their lifetime, some go out early, some seem to last forever. When replacing the bearings, use a plastigauge for clearances. You may find physical challenges with the way the oil pan/pump is designed to get to the bearings, but with a little cussing and a little perseverance ...
I have been told that the manufacturing process for the newer replacement bearings is significantly better than it was 20 years ago, and should work better/last longer. I sure hope so
I have been told that the manufacturing process for the newer replacement bearings is significantly better than it was 20 years ago, and should work better/last longer. I sure hope so
cook93SLOSHO
1CRZYMTHFKR
Alrighty, thanks y'all...
cook93SLOSHO
1CRZYMTHFKR
Would it be prudent or a good idea to just install a mechanical oil pressure gauge and monitor it? If the pressure starts to drop off I'll know it needs attention.
OR, is it a type of a situation where they just go all of a sudden or is it that all of them may be fine but one or two and watching a gauge would do no good?
What makes these engines so different than others?
OR, is it a type of a situation where they just go all of a sudden or is it that all of them may be fine but one or two and watching a gauge would do no good?
What makes these engines so different than others?
Warren
New Member
Well how many miles does your engine have on it? I bought by 1994 MTX SHO from the second owner of the car. When my oil light started flickering due to my cooling fan not working I decided to check the rod bearings to be safe and sure enough they were the original ones from factory and needed to be done and a few were dangerously close to spinning and causing a thrown rod and that would have pretty much totaled the engine. granted I had almost 200k miles on the engine. I would do it. It isnt hard to do and your connecting rods will thank you for it lol
I bought mine from RCM Automotive and they shipped it next day after I paid.
http://rcmautomotive.com/id19.html
I bought mine from RCM Automotive and they shipped it next day after I paid.
http://rcmautomotive.com/id19.html
Last edited:
cook93SLOSHO
1CRZYMTHFKR
Oops, sorry. It has 98K miles on it and it was babied. An old man owned it and most likely drove like an old man....
Warren
New Member
Sounds good, as long as he changed the oil regularly and didnt use cheap shit you should be ok.
I disagree with Warren completely. I would change them asap.
The reason is that an old man will have driven it like an old V8, and upshift way too soon. The SHO motor does not like to run under load at less than 2000 rpms, so it is very likely that the p.o. "drove it like an old man" and upshifted too soon and ran it under load at way less than 2k rpm, therefore causing lack of oil pressure and flow to the rod bearings. This is one of the sure ways to destroy the rod bearings.
The reason is that an old man will have driven it like an old V8, and upshift way too soon. The SHO motor does not like to run under load at less than 2000 rpms, so it is very likely that the p.o. "drove it like an old man" and upshifted too soon and ran it under load at way less than 2k rpm, therefore causing lack of oil pressure and flow to the rod bearings. This is one of the sure ways to destroy the rod bearings.
vortex2450
Buying Parts...
Also, a mechanical oil pressure gauge will do you no good. Reasons being:
A) the tubing you run to the gauge allows a few feet of "buffer" so you won't pick up quick drops or spikes in pressure but just the overall average. YOu owuld need an electronic sender type gauge for usable accuracy and response.
B) You can loose oil pressure at the crank and still have good pressure at the pressure sensor fitting.
I had a mech oil pres gauge on my cammed 3.2l always gave me good numbers until I had the #5 bearing eat itself.
-josh
A) the tubing you run to the gauge allows a few feet of "buffer" so you won't pick up quick drops or spikes in pressure but just the overall average. YOu owuld need an electronic sender type gauge for usable accuracy and response.
B) You can loose oil pressure at the crank and still have good pressure at the pressure sensor fitting.
I had a mech oil pres gauge on my cammed 3.2l always gave me good numbers until I had the #5 bearing eat itself.
-josh
pjtoledo
'ol man in the SHO
You fellas should ask Ron, Off Road SHO, and myself how "old guys" drive. Trust us, our cars are not babied. (Garage Queens excluded)
Perry
Perry
cook93SLOSHO
1CRZYMTHFKR
Alrighty, sounds like a good winter project. Maybe do some other "fun" stuff too while I'm at it, such as a SHO Source Y pipe...
I qualify for "old guy" status too, but I know how to drive a dohc Yamaha motor - most old guys do not. I sadly know this from watching a bunch of other old guys drive...
