So what did you do to your SHO today!?

[kryptto]

Working on the windows now, I think I want to keep the SHO touch of chrome...time will tell if it looks silly once the window trim is done, but so far liking it

haha I could sold you mine already blacked trim around that piece...

 

[kryptto]

as u can see even in my thumbnail, went PI and no model shown

 

[jrembold1120]

as u can see even in my thumbnail, went PI and no model shown

Yeah I do like yours, I'm going to let the SHO hang for a little before I decide if I want that gone too

 

[dallsbeep]

Swapped these out for the AD mounts. Was a bit of a pain in the butt, but got it done.

So far what I've noticed... Sounds louder/meaner in the cabin. I'm not mad at it. It also feels more analog in steering wheel with me. Can feel more vibration. It's not terrible but I definitely feel a little more of that rumblyness. It's idling right at around 5-600rpm so that might be doing it

Shifts feel smoother but wasn't able to truly get on it from a stop to try out a big 1-2 shift.

This car is starting to feel like a performance vehicle to me now. Next stop lower chin spoiler and lower engine splash shield replacement, have ordered whiteline sway bar that gets here tomorrow, and I got a good deal on some barely used bc coilovers as well. Waiting for my ppe downpipes to be made and shipped and will do intercooler and downpipes at the same time.

To be honest, I'm kind of tempted to try meth injection And do it at the same time as everything is going to be off for the IC and downpipes already. Thoughts?

 

[kryptto]

Swapped these out for the AD mounts. Was a bit of a pain in the butt, but got it done.

So far what I've noticed... Sounds louder/meaner in the cabin. I'm not mad at it. It also feels more analog in steering wheel with me. Can feel more vibration. It's not terrible but I definitely feel a little more of that rumblyness. It's idling right at around 5-600rpm so that might be doing it

Shifts feel smoother but wasn't able to truly get on it from a stop to try out a big 1-2 shift.

This car is starting to feel like a performance vehicle to me now. Next stop lower chin spoiler and lower engine splash shield replacement, have ordered whiteline sway bar that gets here tomorrow, and I got a good deal on some barely used bc coilovers as well. Waiting for my ppe downpipes to be made and shipped and will do intercooler and downpipes at the same time.

To be honest, I'm kind of tempted to try meth injection And do it at the same time as everything is going to be off for the IC and downpipes already. Thoughts?

I agree with your assessment of the feel spot on. that connected feeling I got over pretty quickly. yes most daily drivers would shiit if they felt the slight vibration, thus the sloppy mounts they install.

meth would be good but bang for buck and to address the heatsoak issues the IC. if you take my journey update the fuel system and and work toward e30. I am sure someone will argue its a cheap bang for the buck to go with meth.

you know I started laughing because I was talking to @802SHO and others how AI engines are making these discussions easier to have, here is the response;

Choosing the best "quick performance upgrade" for a stock 3.5L Ford EcoBoost engine depends on a few factors, including budget, desired power increase, and willingness to tune the engine. Let's break down the options you've listed: methanol injection (meth), a better intercooler, and an E30 upgrade.


1. Methanol Injection (Meth)

• How it works: Methanol is injected into the intake charge. When it vaporizes, it dramatically cools the air, making it denser. This denser, cooler air allows the engine to make more power. Methanol also has a very high octane rating, which helps prevent detonation (knock) and allows for more aggressive timing and boost.

• Pros: Significant power gains are possible, especially on a tuned engine. It's a great way to combat the heat soak issues common in turbocharged engines. It can also act as an octane booster, allowing you to run more aggressive tunes on pump gas.

• Cons: Requires a dedicated system with a pump, tank, and nozzles. It's an ongoing expense as you need to refill the methanol/water mix. It's a "band-aid" solution for heat and octane, and the system must be reliable—a failure could lead to engine damage if the tune is aggressive. Requires a proper tune to be effective and safe.
• Verdict: High potential for power but requires a more complex setup and a tune. It's not as simple as just "adding meth" without other considerations.

2. Better Intercooler

• How it works: The intercooler's job is to cool the air that has been compressed by the turbochargers before it enters the engine. The stock intercooler is often a weak point on these engines, especially in warmer climates or during prolonged high-load driving. A larger, more efficient aftermarket intercooler can significantly drop the intake air temperatures (IATs).

• Pros: Directly addresses the fundamental issue of heat soak. Lower IATs mean denser air, which leads to more power without a tune (though a tune will optimize the gains). It's a "set and forget" modification with no ongoing maintenance. It improves power and consistency and is an excellent foundation for future mods.
• Cons: The initial cost can be higher than a simple E30 upgrade. The installation can be more involved than some other mods.
• Verdict: This is arguably the most sensible "first mod" for a performance-minded EcoBoost owner. It's a foundational upgrade that improves the engine's efficiency and reliability, especially under load. It will provide a noticeable performance benefit, especially on hot days, and will make any future tuning or power upgrades safer and more effective.

3. E30 Upgrade (Ethanol Blend)

• How it works: E85 (85% ethanol) has a much higher octane rating than gasoline. Mixing it with gasoline to achieve a blend of about 30% ethanol (E30) raises the overall octane. This higher octane allows a tuner to be more aggressive with timing and boost, resulting in more power.
• Pros: High octane for a relatively low cost per gallon compared to race gas. Ethanol also has a cooling effect on the intake charge. The power gains can be very substantial with a proper tune. It's a straightforward "fuel swap" with a tune.
• Cons: Requires access to an E85 pump. You need to be careful with the blend ratio (a flex-fuel sensor is a great idea for this, but adds cost). The fuel mileage will decrease as ethanol has less energy content than gasoline. The high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) may be a limiting factor on some engines and may require an upgrade for higher ethanol blends.

• Verdict: This is a fantastic performance upgrade for the money, but it absolutely requires a custom tune. Without a proper E30 tune, running this fuel can be dangerous for the engine. If you have reliable access to E85 and are willing to get a tune, this offers some of the best "bang for the buck" power.

Conclusion:​

If you are looking for the absolute quickest and safest path to a more reliable, consistent, and slightly more powerful engine, the better intercooler is the best choice. It addresses a core weakness of the engine and requires no tuning to provide a benefit. It is the best foundational upgrade.


If you are looking for the most power for the least amount of money and are willing to get a custom tune, the E30 upgrade is likely the best choice. The power gains can be dramatic, but it absolutely requires a proper tune and careful fuel blending.


Methanol injection is a great option for high-end builds or for people who are pushing the limits on pump gas, but it's a more complex and maintenance-heavy solution. It's a great tool, but probably not the first thing to add unless you're already maxed out on other components.


So, to summarize:

1. Best First Step & Reliability: Intercooler
2. Best Power for the Money (with a tune): E30 Upgrade
3. High-Power & Advanced Solution (with a tune): Methanol Injection

 

[SM105K]

Swapped these out for the AD mounts. Was a bit of a pain in the butt, but got it done.

So far what I've noticed... Sounds louder/meaner in the cabin. I'm not mad at it. It also feels more analog in steering wheel with me. Can feel more vibration. It's not terrible but I definitely feel a little more of that rumblyness. It's idling right at around 5-600rpm so that might be doing it

Shifts feel smoother but wasn't able to truly get on it from a stop to try out a big 1-2 shift.

This car is starting to feel like a performance vehicle to me now. Next stop lower chin spoiler and lower engine splash shield replacement, have ordered whiteline sway bar that gets here tomorrow, and I got a good deal on some barely used bc coilovers as well. Waiting for my ppe downpipes to be made and shipped and will do intercooler and downpipes at the same time.

To be honest, I'm kind of tempted to try meth injection And do it at the same time as everything is going to be off for the IC and downpipes already. Thoughts?

Those mounts will break in and vibration will lessen. If you are tuned, go into the tuning device and raise your idle rpm by 100 -150 rpm and that will help as well.

 

[SM105K]

Swapped these out for the AD mounts. Was a bit of a pain in the butt, but got it done.

So far what I've noticed... Sounds louder/meaner in the cabin. I'm not mad at it. It also feels more analog in steering wheel with me. Can feel more vibration. It's not terrible but I definitely feel a little more of that rumblyness. It's idling right at around 5-600rpm so that might be doing it

Shifts feel smoother but wasn't able to truly get on it from a stop to try out a big 1-2 shift.

This car is starting to feel like a performance vehicle to me now. Next stop lower chin spoiler and lower engine splash shield replacement, have ordered whiteline sway bar that gets here tomorrow, and I got a good deal on some barely used bc coilovers as well. Waiting for my ppe downpipes to be made and shipped and will do intercooler and downpipes at the same time.

To be honest, I'm kind of tempted to try meth injection And do it at the same time as everything is going to be off for the IC and downpipes already. Thoughts?

Also something to think about......

So from my research most stock SHO's put about 290 HP and 300 TQ on average.

Full disclaimer: Brad from AJP Turbo is the only person who has tuned my car.

When I first tuned the car (plugs, K&N drop in) on 91 it made 366 HP and 414 TQ in 105 degree heat. so +76 HP and +114 TQ over stock.

Next was the E30 tune. Car made 391 HP and 470 TQ on 91 octane with Torco T85 E30 mix in 90 degree heat. E30 added +25 HP and 56 HP for a +101 HP and +170 TQ over stock.

Literally just the AJP Turbo E30 tune was the biggest bang for the buck in my build.

Then came the GH IC. The car actually lost power in cooler temps with a revision. The GH IC was a bit too big for my particular turbos. Car made 388 HP and 463 TQ on two less PSI of boost. So -3 HP and -7 TQ made +98 HP and +163 TQ over stock. Brad did state in an email this could happen, because he was seeing boost tapering bad on my car in the logs.

Next my full exhaust mod. Revised AJPTurbo E30 tune on stock HPFP, Gearhead Intercooler, PPE Catted Downpipes, Custom Magnaflow Resonator. DP's and Custom Magnaflow Resonator, going throught stock mufflers netted me +3 HP and +24 TQ bringing up the numbers to +101 HP and +194 TQ over stock.

Finished the cycle with the FS HPFP (who I bought from BPD) and removed the GH IC and replaced with a stock unit. I documented it in detail earlier in this thread. Brad sent me a revision for the HPFP and stock IC. Car was on 91 mixed with pump E54 for pump E30. Car actually made 414 HP on the first pull but TQ didn't register because of the connection to the MSD coils. He fixed the issue and the second pull netted 411 HP and 546 TQ. However if you look at the dyno sheet, he didn't actually get the true peak. It is probably in the 555 to 565 TQ range because it was already falling before the dyno recorded. So +20 HP and +52 TQ finishing the numbers at +121 HP and +246 TQ over stock.

After thinking about it more my top three mods would be:

HPFP with whatever octane tune you can run
H&R Springs
AD TQ Mounts

That would give the owner the ultimate foundation. Good HP and TQ, better handling, almost eliminate wheel hop.

A good set of tires would be next, however most people don't think of those as a mod.

 

[dallsbeep]

Also something to think about......

So from my research most stock SHO's put about 290 HP and 300 TQ on average.

Full disclaimer: Brad from AJP Turbo is the only person who has tuned my car.

When I first tuned the car (plugs, K&N drop in) on 91 it made 366 HP and 414 TQ in 105 degree heat. so +76 HP and +114 TQ over stock.

Next was the E30 tune. Car made 391 HP and 470 TQ on 91 octane with Torco T85 E30 mix in 90 degree heat. E30 added +25 HP and 56 HP for a +101 HP and +170 TQ over stock.

Literally just the AJP Turbo E30 tune was the biggest bang for the buck in my build.

Then came the GH IC. The car actually lost power in cooler temps with a revision. The GH IC was a bit too big for my particular turbos. Car made 388 HP and 463 TQ on two less PSI of boost. So -3 HP and -7 TQ made +98 HP and +163 TQ over stock. Brad did state in an email this could happen, because he was seeing boost tapering bad on my car in the logs.

Next my full exhaust mod. Revised AJPTurbo E30 tune on stock HPFP, Gearhead Intercooler, PPE Catted Downpipes, Custom Magnaflow Resonator. DP's and Custom Magnaflow Resonator, going throught stock mufflers netted me +3 HP and +24 TQ bringing up the numbers to +101 HP and +194 TQ over stock.

Finished the cycle with the FS HPFP (who I bought from BPD) and removed the GH IC and replaced with a stock unit. I documented it in detail earlier in this thread. Brad sent me a revision for the HPFP and stock IC. Car was on 91 mixed with pump E54 for pump E30. Car actually made 414 HP on the first pull but TQ didn't register because of the connection to the MSD coils. He fixed the issue and the second pull netted 411 HP and 546 TQ. However if you look at the dyno sheet, he didn't actually get the true peak. It is probably in the 555 to 565 TQ range because it was already falling before the dyno recorded. So +20 HP and +52 TQ finishing the numbers at +121 HP and +246 TQ over stock.

After thinking about it more my top three mods would be:

HPFP with whatever octane tune you can run
H&R Springs
AD TQ Mounts

That would give the owner the ultimate foundation. Good HP and TQ, better handling, almost eliminate wheel hop.

A good set of tires would be next, however most people don't think of those as a mod.

Thank you. This is an interesting read as I live in a place that is usually only 50-65 degrees out during summer and wintertime it's 30s or lower all winter so I always wondered if I'd need intercooler or if it could make me lose power if it ran too cool. It's sitting in my garage now though so..


The problem is I literally have no e85 up here at all. Or 93 octane. Also I don't have access to a dyno so it would all have to be by feel.

I got a good deal on bc coilovers with swift springs that is getting mailed up to me, have the whiteline rear sway bar coming, and have a nice set of tires on her. (That's was the first thing I bought tbh)

 

[dallsbeep]

I get what you're saying about E30 tune though so have been looking at ways to easily replicate higher octane fuel without absolutely getting murdered with shipping. I guess I could order 5 gallon containers of t85 but that's like 50-60 bucks plus shipping each fill-up. That seems a little wild

 

[SM105K]

I get what you're saying about E30 tune though so have been looking at ways to easily replicate higher octane fuel without absolutely getting murdered with shipping. I guess I could order 5 gallon containers of t85 but that's like 50-60 bucks plus shipping each fill-up. That seems a little wild

You could order a 55 gallon drum of E85. I personally use Torco. I pay $480 for 55 gallons.

Torco Race Fuels

Torco Racing Fuel, best quality Fuels and Additives for high-performance motorsports. Torco Accelerator is not an Octane Booster, it is a Race fuel Concentrate.

torcoracefuel.net

There are two distributors in Alaska.

I would get a 91 tune for winter, and ask your tuner for E30 tune for the summer. That will cut down on your fuel costs, and you don't want the extra power during the winter.

When using e85 a good rule of thumb is 2 gallons of 91 to 1 gallon of E85 will net you close to E30. That is what I run in my Mercedes.

 

[dallsbeep]

Slapped on new bottom engine shield and valance that it attaches to. Fixed all trunk leaks...

I put on new end links and whiteline rear sway bar. Car feels way better. Like....much better in turns. I need to adjust muscle memory to how to drive it right now because I was clearly compensating for body roll I think.


Still waiting for downpipes to arrive. But look what we have here that just arrived in the mail...
Bought a set of used bc racing coilovers with swift springs that had 4k miles on them and he was gracious enough to agree to ship to Alaska.

I am on the fence on if I want to wait to install these until after this upcoming winter.

Downpipes and intercooler too. I'm tempted to go for an E30 tune for summer months and buy a 55 gallon drum of torx.

I think that will just about conclude the work I would like to do in the near future.

My ac doesn't work and it's the compressor. I have a hard time spending money on stuff like that when there's performance upgrades to be done still

 

[Texas Marauder]

Fixed all trunk leaks...

Well, tell us the story.

 

[dallsbeep]

Well, tell us the story.

Ugh. Usual culprits were leaking. Plugged the taillights, spoiler bolts etc. I found an actual seam was seeping as well as the top left trunk lid. I finally broke down and sat in trunk with waterhose going. I parked it nose down and plugged everything, then nose up and made sure everything was plugged. So far so good. I feel intimately familiar with this cars trunk. It's been the bane of my existence so I'm looking forward to driving this thing in the rain guilt free for a week, and then getting angry when it turns into a swimming pool again next time I check

 

[dallsbeep]

Well, tell us the story.

Forgot to show her in all her glory. Look at that. bone dry.

Debating on getting that piece that goes over spare tire well as that was absolutely thrashed by previous owner and waterlogged/moldy/crumbling. Would pay a fair amount in shipping to get that up here. Kinda seems like I could be putting more money into performance/maintenance instead.

 

[dallsbeep]

While driving the sho around last night I had something strange happen. My brights were automatically turning on by themselves and I could t turn them off. They were randomly going on and off with my headlights on.

Fast forward to today. My windows wouldnt go down. Not just on driver's switch, but all switches.

I start checking fuses. Fuse number 38 I believe is one of the culprits. It was not under dash but under the hood. I swapped that bad fuse out and now all work except front passenger window. Not from front or drivers side switch. Not sure if the brights are a separate issue or not but it sure is an interesting one if they are independent.

I'm currently working on boat and have limited free time and tools. Just have the little fuses and nothing else so can't get too far into it. I'll tell you it's annoying the heck out of me though I hate when there's an issue I cant figure out/get to. It just nags me to death

 

[J persons]

Change the oil and filter. Finally accumulated almost 3K miles since my last oil change in February.
My GH IC arrived, now have to make some time to install it and the tune revision.

 

[SM105K]

While driving the sho around last night I had something strange happen. My brights were automatically turning on by themselves and I could t turn them off. They were randomly going on and off with my headlights on.

Fast forward to today. My windows wouldnt go down. Not just on driver's switch, but all switches.

I start checking fuses. Fuse number 38 I believe is one of the culprits. It was not under dash but under the hood. I swapped that bad fuse out and now all work except front passenger window. Not fro bits side or drivers side. Not sure if the brights are a separate issue or not but it sure is an interesting one if they are independent.

I'm currently working on boat and have limited free time and tools. Just have the little fuses and nothing else so can't get too far into it. I'll tell you it's annoying the heck out of me though I hate when there's an issue I cant figure out/get to. It just nags me to death

Battery.

 

[dallsbeep]

Battery.

You think a battery would blow that fuse and do that? I think it's only 2 years old but will check it when I get home in a few weeks. Stranger things have happened that's for sure haha. That fuse was definitely bad but I did have dome lights and such in interior.

 

[SM105K]

You think a battery would blow that fuse and do that? I think it's only 2 years old but will check it when I get home in a few weeks. Stranger things have happened that's for sure haha. That fuse was definitely bad but I did have dome lights and such in interior.

My SHO killed batteries every two years almost to the day. These cars esp do not like weak batteries.

 

[dallsbeep]

My SHO killed batteries every two years almost to the day. These cars esp do not like weak batteries.

Haha gotcha. Well I've spent worse things on cars than a new battery before an Alaskan winter. I know this car sat almost a whole year before I bought it so I'll swap her out when I get home.

Downpipes arrive in mail either today or tomorrow. Now you got me worried about installing GH intercooler with it not being hot here