Might as well be a restoration at this point

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PastaPirate13

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Alright, quick background. I aquired this raggedy old 1995 mtx last summer, previous owner installed a new transmission and differential, MAF sensor and TPS. I got the car home and discovered the ball joints were shot and replaced the LCAs and outer tie rod ends. A few weeks later it develops a sudden misfire shortly after leaving for work one afternoon, I get the car home and discover oil in the #5 plug hole so I assume it just needed the upper 60k. I replaced the plugs and wires and did an oil and filter change to only short lived success. It started up and ran great for less than a minute before the misfire returned, which turned out to be a DIS failure as well as an IAC sensor issue. After replacing the DIS and the IAC sensor the car ran great at night and in colder weather, but during the afternoon or in warmer weather it would occasionally stutter and surge a bit and the check engine light would now throw a MAF sensor code. I eventually tracked that down to a broken MAF plug that I broke while removing the intake manifold for the first time. I spliced in a new plug and it once again ran great, this time for a couple days. Eventually though the sputtering and surging slowly came back and got worse than before, once it completely cut power for three or four seconds and i pulled over onto the shoulder unsure when I'd get any power back. I eventually made it to work, and the drive home that night went relatively well with it only sputtering a couple times. The next morning I pulled the codes again and came up with an IAC sensor code, which is odd since that part was new. It's been parked since late November while I've been gathering parts and knowledge on what to do next, and battling with the weather as I'm doing this outside in my driveway.


Fast forward to today, I've gained quite a lot of knowledge on how to do most of what I'm trying to do though it's a bit intimidating doing most of this work on my own. Most of the parts I believe I need to at least have a mechanically solid SHO have arrived and I'll be ordering a bit more tonight. So far I've gotten 24/26mm sway bars with poly bushings, new end links front and rear also with poly bushings. 3rd gen rear subframe bushings, poly front and rear tension strut rod bushings, stainless steel brake lines along with new pads and rotors. As far as engine maintenance goes, I've gotten an intake gasket and coupler set, new drive belts, a new timing belt, new water pump, CPS and front main seal. I also got new rod bearings but these came from rock auto so I wasn't sure if these were correct or not. I ordered new spark plugs as well since I had to drive for a couple months with the MAF sensor issue. Tonight I plan on ordering the valve adjustment kit, brake bias plugs and I have a feeling I'm gonna need way more poly grease than I currently have. I'm doing my best but I am disorganized as fork so if there's anything else I should get before I really get started on this project I would greatly appreciate the advice. Also I'm a bit lost as to what order I need to do this stuff in, the Chilton repair manual I have helps, but as I'm sure many of you know has it's limitations.

IMG 20220131 134113737 HDR
Left and right rear tension strut rod bushings, looks like they're the original ones. These were by far the worst but the others were all showing various levels of dry rot.
IMG 20220325 151056763IMG 20220325 151120312

IMG 20220407 125332036
IMG 20220409 153416037IMG 20220409 153506781IMG 20220409 181327660
 

zoomlater

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I haven't used the Chilton's manual, but have one (came with one of my cars). I use the Helm's manual that I had to order from the dealership at the time. I think you have the links to the SHO Phoenix Project site that has pictures for doing the front 60K and upper 60K. Here is another link that has a lot of photos/instructions as well: Thank you to itwonder


At least now, you will know all the maintenance that has been done on the car.
 

SHOCH

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Welcome to the cult!
True love hate with these.
Doubt rod bearings are correct.
I’m sure you’ve read of crank cancer, if you’re going in deep take a good look.
We’re here to help, thanks for running codes and not shooting in the dark.
I’d find the stalling issue first.
We’ll be in Nashville in 99 days, cheers.
 

luigisho

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Same, not many parts I've gotten from rock auto have been correct.
YEah I did a big suspension overhaul many years ago and got most of it from rock auto. Alot of shipping wrong stuff back and forth. Not going to do that again. Alot of bs for small parts that held up the whole thing
 

PastaPirate13

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I'd like to also replace these springs and struts with something better but I have a feeling I'll just have to piece something together. I got some pics with the part numbers for reference.

Here's the left and right rear, looks significantly more worn out than the front.
IMG 20220411 141221684 HDRIMG 20220411 141142833 HDRIMG 20220411 141207381

Here's the front left and right, these two look relatively new.
IMG 20220411 141024500IMG 20220411 141130226
IMG 20220411 141114239
 

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FastCAD

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Alright, quick background. I aquired this raggedy old 1995 mtx last summer, previous owner installed a new transmission and differential, MAF sensor and TPS. I got the car home and discovered the ball joints were shot and replaced the LCAs and outer tie rod ends. A few weeks later it develops a sudden misfire shortly after leaving for work one afternoon, I get the car home and discover oil in the #5 plug hole so I assume it just needed the upper 60k. I replaced the plugs and wires and did an oil and filter change to only short lived success. It started up and ran great for less than a minute before the misfire returned, which turned out to be a DIS failure as well as an IAC sensor issue. After replacing the DIS and the IAC sensor the car ran great at night and in colder weather, but during the afternoon or in warmer weather it would occasionally stutter and surge a bit and the check engine light would now throw a MAF sensor code. I eventually tracked that down to a broken MAF plug that I broke while removing the intake manifold for the first time. I spliced in a new plug and it once again ran great, this time for a couple days. Eventually though the sputtering and surging slowly came back and got worse than before, once it completely cut power for three or four seconds and i pulled over onto the shoulder unsure when I'd get any power back. I eventually made it to work, and the drive home that night went relatively well with it only sputtering a couple times. The next morning I pulled the codes again and came up with an IAC sensor code, which is odd since that part was new. It's been parked since late November while I've been gathering parts and knowledge on what to do next, and battling with the weather as I'm doing this outside in my driveway.


Fast forward to today, I've gained quite a lot of knowledge on how to do most of what I'm trying to do though it's a bit intimidating doing most of this work on my own. Most of the parts I believe I need to at least have a mechanically solid SHO have arrived and I'll be ordering a bit more tonight. So far I've gotten 24/26mm sway bars with poly bushings, new end links front and rear also with poly bushings. 3rd gen rear subframe bushings, poly front and rear tension strut rod bushings, stainless steel brake lines along with new pads and rotors. As far as engine maintenance goes, I've gotten an intake gasket and coupler set, new drive belts, a new timing belt, new water pump, CPS and front main seal. I also got new rod bearings but these came from rock auto so I wasn't sure if these were correct or not. I ordered new spark plugs as well since I had to drive for a couple months with the MAF sensor issue. Tonight I plan on ordering the valve adjustment kit, brake bias plugs and I have a feeling I'm gonna need way more poly grease than I currently have. I'm doing my best but I am disorganized as fork so if there's anything else I should get before I really get started on this project I would greatly appreciate the advice. Also I'm a bit lost as to what order I need to do this stuff in, the Chilton repair manual I have helps, but as I'm sure many of you know has it's limitations.

View attachment 83708
Left and right rear tension strut rod bushings, looks like they're the original ones. These were by far the worst but the others were all showing various levels of dry rot.
View attachment 83709View attachment 83710

View attachment 83711
View attachment 83712View attachment 83713View attachment 83714

Same, not many parts I've gotten from rock auto have been correct.
 

FastCAD

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Same, not many parts I've gotten from rock auto have been correct.
welcome. u didn't mention the mileage and from the pics it seems to be many 'salty' miles but u can correct most of that. those front struts appear to be oem ford. struts of any kind will only give u about 100k but u are on the right track and all of these guys here will help for sure.
with your 60k update u didn't mention 'plug well seals' (shosource). that could be your intermittent mis-fire?
with all the suspension upgrades u have planned I would suggest adding "sub-frame connectors" they make for a very positive handling addition and maybe after u get the yamahammer running right u might want or 'need' the '96 brake upgrade (or svt 12 inchers w/17" wheels) which goes a long way to keeping 'the shiney side up'.
best to ya and keep us posted.
 

PastaPirate13

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welcome. u didn't mention the mileage and from the pics it seems to be many 'salty' miles but u can correct most of that. those front struts appear to be oem ford. struts of any kind will only give u about 100k but u are on the right track and all of these guys here will help for sure.
with your 60k update u didn't mention 'plug well seals' (shosource). that could be your intermittent mis-fire?
with all the suspension upgrades u have planned I would suggest adding "sub-frame connectors" they make for a very positive handling addition and maybe after u get the yamahammer running right u might want or 'need' the '96 brake upgrade (or svt 12 inchers w/17" wheels) which goes a long way to keeping 'the shiney side up'.
best to ya and keep us posted.
When I did the plugs and wires I also changed the valve cover gaskets and plug well seals. Odometer reads around 263k but the previous owner told me it was "closer to 200k" though I'm not exactly sure what he meant by that.
 

FastCAD

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When I did the plugs and wires I also changed the valve cover gaskets and plug well seals. Odometer reads around 263k but the previous owner told me it was "closer to 200k" though I'm not exactly sure what he meant by that.
Good. my gen1 got new gaskets and oil plug seals last year and added a quaife limited slip. runs much better.
We have similar miles my odo reads 76K but is closer to 250k. I replaced my dash (cracked & dry) and the odo difference is from my donor sho which makes up the difference and my dash & interior look good.
Just a thought; my sho was cutting out on load recently and it was because I didn't keep my battery post clean enough. a good cleaning solved that.
I've had my '91 for 29yrs. and I've learned from all the maintenance that quality "sho" specific parts make the difference. not all suppliers specify "sho" or 'y' code parts, so be careful espescially with e**Y. If you can't verify 3.2L dohc try somewhere else. There's a wealth of info right here on the forum and they know what their talkin' about.
best to ya
 

JRA2000TL

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Welcome! One of the best purchases I made was a Ford factory shop manual. There is a wealth of knowledge on here, and some of us, like me, have been around these for 20+ years. There are also a couple of SHO FB groups where you can probably have questions answered even quicker. SHOPhoenix and WikiSHO are valuable resources.

RockAuto, as stated, often has incorrect parts. Be sure to cross reference to the Ford OEM or Motorcraft part # before you order from them.

Have fun! I've had my 2 recent SHOs for 11 and 12 years and both have turned into restoration projects.
 

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