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ecoboost_xsport Consolidated Build/Maintenance Thread
- Thread starter Ecoboost_xsport
- Start date
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Badass John!!!!!!!!!!!! It’s going to fly
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
Weight Reduction: Roof Rack Delete
I wanted to get rid of the roof rack for awhile now as I never use it and feel like it might be another few pounds that can be shaved. I was thinking it would look a bit more clean and give it an even lower visual appearance by bringing the overall height down a bit.
The majority of Explorers come with the roof rack rails as a standard option with "slick top" variants normally being the PIU versions. I used a lot of the information contained within this post:
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/roof-rack-rail-removal.383226/
...and it was an awesome resource. Thank you to those that posted information on ways to make this happen. I won't rehash much of what was covered in it except for some things I may have done a bit differently.
Here's the before photo (it was dirty, don't judge me! LOL):
First step is popping off the end covers to access the bolts that hold down the rails.
Front/Rear:
And once those are off, it's pretty much self-explanatory from that point. Here's the entire roof rack system removed from the vehicle and weighed it on the scale:
I saved a whopping additional ~19lbs!
Starting with the rear portion, here's the bolt holes with all the dirt and grime cleaned up and ready for some new hardware to block the water:
I made a personal decision that I didn't really care to add the length of channel stripping as I wasn't really that concerned about it. I did want it to look good, but wasn't too worried about the top portion, so I decided just to block of the holes with straight hardware. What I did decide to do was go with some pretty good quality (translation: expensive) 316 stainless steel hardware and some weather-resistant rubber sealing washers, along with RTV for good measure. Here's a parts list that I ordered from McMaster-Carr:
Yes, those low profile bolts are pricey, but they will work great. The OEM ones will work fine as well, this is just a bit extra. Here's the hardware in action:
I doubled-up on the rubber washers to ensure it sealed against the contours of the bolt hole area. And also used some of this RTV for the extra measure:
And the RTV applied:
And the final installation for the rear area:
I will concede that it looks much better with the weather stripping that is used to install in that channel. I just opted not for simplicity's sake. It's not all that noticeable and I still used the front short rail sections anyway.
Now, onto the front area. Here's the parts needed:
I got everything from Sewell Ford as pricing (to include shipping) was the best I could find:
I made some changes with the sealing foam that came on all the pieces. I decided I didn't like it so I removed it all as I was going to use RTV and those rubber sealing washers for a more positive seal. I've seen that foam stuff go bad over time, so felt my option would last longer. Only time will tell...
Foam removed. Side note: For those that don't know, WD-40 is the most perfect chemical to get rid of adhesive "boogers" and residue...it practically wipes off. It's great when removing decals and weather-stripping as well.
Also removed the foam from the retaining clip:
Difference between a standard socket cap screw and the low profile ones I went with:
Here's why:
Bolts, washers and RTV on the cover:
Installed:
After look:
Comparison shot:
And there ya go. What you guys think?
Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~280.0 lbs
I wanted to get rid of the roof rack for awhile now as I never use it and feel like it might be another few pounds that can be shaved. I was thinking it would look a bit more clean and give it an even lower visual appearance by bringing the overall height down a bit.
The majority of Explorers come with the roof rack rails as a standard option with "slick top" variants normally being the PIU versions. I used a lot of the information contained within this post:
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/roof-rack-rail-removal.383226/
...and it was an awesome resource. Thank you to those that posted information on ways to make this happen. I won't rehash much of what was covered in it except for some things I may have done a bit differently.
Here's the before photo (it was dirty, don't judge me! LOL):
First step is popping off the end covers to access the bolts that hold down the rails.
Front/Rear:
And once those are off, it's pretty much self-explanatory from that point. Here's the entire roof rack system removed from the vehicle and weighed it on the scale:
I saved a whopping additional ~19lbs!
Starting with the rear portion, here's the bolt holes with all the dirt and grime cleaned up and ready for some new hardware to block the water:
I made a personal decision that I didn't really care to add the length of channel stripping as I wasn't really that concerned about it. I did want it to look good, but wasn't too worried about the top portion, so I decided just to block of the holes with straight hardware. What I did decide to do was go with some pretty good quality (translation: expensive) 316 stainless steel hardware and some weather-resistant rubber sealing washers, along with RTV for good measure. Here's a parts list that I ordered from McMaster-Carr:
Yes, those low profile bolts are pricey, but they will work great. The OEM ones will work fine as well, this is just a bit extra. Here's the hardware in action:
I doubled-up on the rubber washers to ensure it sealed against the contours of the bolt hole area. And also used some of this RTV for the extra measure:
And the RTV applied:
And the final installation for the rear area:
I will concede that it looks much better with the weather stripping that is used to install in that channel. I just opted not for simplicity's sake. It's not all that noticeable and I still used the front short rail sections anyway.
Now, onto the front area. Here's the parts needed:
I got everything from Sewell Ford as pricing (to include shipping) was the best I could find:
- DB5Z-7851728-AA Molding, Roof Side Trim $47.77 Qty: 1
- DB5Z-7851729-AA Molding, Roof Side Trim $47.51 Qty: 1
- FB5Z-7850002-A Retainer $6.80 Qty: 1
- FB5Z-7850002-B Retainer $6.80 Qty: 1
I made some changes with the sealing foam that came on all the pieces. I decided I didn't like it so I removed it all as I was going to use RTV and those rubber sealing washers for a more positive seal. I've seen that foam stuff go bad over time, so felt my option would last longer. Only time will tell...
Foam removed. Side note: For those that don't know, WD-40 is the most perfect chemical to get rid of adhesive "boogers" and residue...it practically wipes off. It's great when removing decals and weather-stripping as well.
Also removed the foam from the retaining clip:
Difference between a standard socket cap screw and the low profile ones I went with:
Here's why:
Bolts, washers and RTV on the cover:
Installed:
After look:
Comparison shot:
And there ya go. What you guys think?
Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~280.0 lbs
Last edited:
Angrymongoose
SHO Member
Looks much cleaner without the roof rack for sure.
Wsho
SHO Member
Definitely cleaner and smoother lines should reduce drag by 2% LOL
limited02
SHO Member
Beautiful! I did the same to my 2002 Explorer and it certainly changes the look!
High on Ethanol
Just Ain't Care
Ehhh... Idk on this one. Maybe if you go widebody and lose the steps.... Hmmm. I'm split 50 /50 on it.... In current form.
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
I feel you...I'm hard stuck n those steps...only real reason is without them there is too much...open space...down there and makes it look too high. I don't have the luxury of being able to use side skirts or a body kit...speaking of which, I'd **** for a wide body kit on this thing, as far as looks.
But yeah, if there was some sort of off the shelf not-so-crazy-looking body kit, I'd go with that...but until then...keepin the steps, LOL...
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
man, that thing would look killer if it had a bit of a drop on it...
High on Ethanol
Just Ain't Care
Yeah, I think you are a pioneer with that. Most people try to lift those things lol
limited02
SHO Member
Thank you! There wasn’t any springs to lower it that I’m aware of and I actually trimmed the coils when I installed new shocks. It was a touch lower than stock, but not as low as I’d like. Owned it 10 years and put 145,000 miles on it (that picture it had about 212,000 on it and I sold it right after). If I miss anything about it besides the perks of an SUV, the V8 roar with the 70 series Flowmaster and K&N CAI (91 tune) was perfect.
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
Fuel Pump Voltage Booster (aka Boost-A-Pump) Part 01
I've always felt the weak link in the fueling system of our platform is the in-tank (or low pressure fuel pump - LPFP). This isn't normally an issue with mild to semi-aggressive builds as the addition of a higher output HPFP and injectors along with an ethanol blend and maybe even some methanol injection have been able to keep up with the majority of the demands of the platform.
However, the reality of it is that no one has really taken this platform to extremes quite yet. Those extremes include running straight e85 and/or wheel horsepower levels exceeding the 650-700 mark. It's those areas were serious fuel demands come into play and simply installing larger injectors and HPFP just won't do the trick. In order to address this high fuel demand issue, we need to look at the very first step of the fuel system, the in-tank pump. My breakdown of it is that, with those other components, you've basically got yourself a firehose nozzle attached to standard garden hose bib. At the extreme ends of the spectrum, you'll just never be able to feed that nozzle what it needs to truly shine.
I've recently began running straight e85, and already the cracks are starting to show in the armor. According to my tuner, we'd like to see a low pressure side reading of at least 80psi. Well, at WOT, we were seeing dips down into the 60psi range, and the HPFP would follow with a dip in output and/or increase in duty cycle.
Now, I have been preaching that the low-pressure pump is the weak link and to that end, I have explored many, many different options (surge tanks, larger in-tank pumps, etc.). None quite off the table, but most of them are very complex problems to solve and, frankly, exceed my limits of advanced fuel system knowledge. So, to that end, after speaking with Uwe over at XDI who was attempting to install a larger Bosch 400 into a stock fuel bucket I had sent him and found that it just wasn't quite possible reminded me of an old trick that may be able to be revived and used in our platform.
Enter the fuel pump voltage booster, known to many as a Boost-A-Pump, or BAP (although that title is usually in reference to the Kenne Bell version of the device). The theory here is, the more voltage to the pump, the more work it can do. Pretty simple, right? Well, it's a bit more involved than that...so here goes.
The OEM fuel system in our platform is a returnless, pulse-width modulated, direct injection system. What that basically means is, there is a fuel pump driver module (FPDM) that is sending PWM signals to maintain a system pressure that the HPFP can use to push the rail pressures to above the 2000psi mark. It isn't like the old school pumps that just ramp up and down in speed to maintain that pressure, but rather, turn off and on at an incredibly fast rate. This means, you can't simply interrupt the voltage signal going directly to the pump, you need to interrupt the signal pre-FPDM.
So, on the advice of Carl over at Vapor Worx, I decided to go with the JMS version instead of the Kenne Bell or MSD. The JMS version has a reputation for having the cleanest output signal and has some pretty cool ramp in/out features that I found I'd like to use as well as being able utilize a 0-5vdc trigger if required.
It all began with the arrival of the pump:
It comes with everything you need to get this thing up and running. That includes a Hobbs switch for using boost as a reference if you are so inclined...
However, I really wanted to utilize the 0-5vdc trigger feature of this device as it allows you to fine tune a ramp in/out rate if you desire (and I do). So where do I get a 0-5vdc reference? Hmmmmm...well, you really DON'T want to tap into the MAP sensor signal as the act of tapping it can sometimes introduce noise into the system and have weird effects on the vehicle. You also don't want to tap into the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) as that can open and close at various positions not equating to actual fuel demand. I guess I could install a second, dedicated MAP sensor, but that would be over-engineering the solution. Why not just go with a solution that JMS already had in-place. Use of the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor. Because I like plug-n-play, along with the ability to "EDIT/UNDO", I opted for an off-the-shelf solution from JMS. They had a Ford wire harness for purchase:
But if you want to keep it on a budget and not purchase the adapter harness, simply splice into wire #2...
...of the connector C2040:
The accelerator pedal connection before installation:
After installation:
Since I was going to use the pedal position as my 0-5vdc reference, I had to see what the actual range of output was. Just because it is a 0-5vdc output doesn't mean it's at that exact range. Below is a photo of the voltage at rest (left) and the voltage value when the pedal is floored, simulating WOT (right):
This test was done key-on, engine-off.
Next was accessing the FPDM. Even though it is underneath the c-pillar cover, because of the way Ford decided to assemble this car, you have to remove almost the entire rear interior, lol....ugh.....
Here is everything off but placed loosely back into position, other than the c-pillar cover:
It was at this point that I did some data collection on what the FPDM is seeing. I have two Fluke meters so I decided to also see how that voltage compares to what the pedal sensor is putting out. Here's a video compilation:
I have plans to wire this in such a way that I can remove the BAP and put it back to stock relatively easily. This requires the use of my extensive Deutsch connector set:
Here is the JMS "wiring" guide and which wire is needed to be intercepted:
I've always felt the weak link in the fueling system of our platform is the in-tank (or low pressure fuel pump - LPFP). This isn't normally an issue with mild to semi-aggressive builds as the addition of a higher output HPFP and injectors along with an ethanol blend and maybe even some methanol injection have been able to keep up with the majority of the demands of the platform.
However, the reality of it is that no one has really taken this platform to extremes quite yet. Those extremes include running straight e85 and/or wheel horsepower levels exceeding the 650-700 mark. It's those areas were serious fuel demands come into play and simply installing larger injectors and HPFP just won't do the trick. In order to address this high fuel demand issue, we need to look at the very first step of the fuel system, the in-tank pump. My breakdown of it is that, with those other components, you've basically got yourself a firehose nozzle attached to standard garden hose bib. At the extreme ends of the spectrum, you'll just never be able to feed that nozzle what it needs to truly shine.
I've recently began running straight e85, and already the cracks are starting to show in the armor. According to my tuner, we'd like to see a low pressure side reading of at least 80psi. Well, at WOT, we were seeing dips down into the 60psi range, and the HPFP would follow with a dip in output and/or increase in duty cycle.
Now, I have been preaching that the low-pressure pump is the weak link and to that end, I have explored many, many different options (surge tanks, larger in-tank pumps, etc.). None quite off the table, but most of them are very complex problems to solve and, frankly, exceed my limits of advanced fuel system knowledge. So, to that end, after speaking with Uwe over at XDI who was attempting to install a larger Bosch 400 into a stock fuel bucket I had sent him and found that it just wasn't quite possible reminded me of an old trick that may be able to be revived and used in our platform.
Enter the fuel pump voltage booster, known to many as a Boost-A-Pump, or BAP (although that title is usually in reference to the Kenne Bell version of the device). The theory here is, the more voltage to the pump, the more work it can do. Pretty simple, right? Well, it's a bit more involved than that...so here goes.
The OEM fuel system in our platform is a returnless, pulse-width modulated, direct injection system. What that basically means is, there is a fuel pump driver module (FPDM) that is sending PWM signals to maintain a system pressure that the HPFP can use to push the rail pressures to above the 2000psi mark. It isn't like the old school pumps that just ramp up and down in speed to maintain that pressure, but rather, turn off and on at an incredibly fast rate. This means, you can't simply interrupt the voltage signal going directly to the pump, you need to interrupt the signal pre-FPDM.
So, on the advice of Carl over at Vapor Worx, I decided to go with the JMS version instead of the Kenne Bell or MSD. The JMS version has a reputation for having the cleanest output signal and has some pretty cool ramp in/out features that I found I'd like to use as well as being able utilize a 0-5vdc trigger if required.
It all began with the arrival of the pump:
It comes with everything you need to get this thing up and running. That includes a Hobbs switch for using boost as a reference if you are so inclined...
However, I really wanted to utilize the 0-5vdc trigger feature of this device as it allows you to fine tune a ramp in/out rate if you desire (and I do). So where do I get a 0-5vdc reference? Hmmmmm...well, you really DON'T want to tap into the MAP sensor signal as the act of tapping it can sometimes introduce noise into the system and have weird effects on the vehicle. You also don't want to tap into the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) as that can open and close at various positions not equating to actual fuel demand. I guess I could install a second, dedicated MAP sensor, but that would be over-engineering the solution. Why not just go with a solution that JMS already had in-place. Use of the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor. Because I like plug-n-play, along with the ability to "EDIT/UNDO", I opted for an off-the-shelf solution from JMS. They had a Ford wire harness for purchase:
But if you want to keep it on a budget and not purchase the adapter harness, simply splice into wire #2...
...of the connector C2040:
The accelerator pedal connection before installation:
After installation:
Since I was going to use the pedal position as my 0-5vdc reference, I had to see what the actual range of output was. Just because it is a 0-5vdc output doesn't mean it's at that exact range. Below is a photo of the voltage at rest (left) and the voltage value when the pedal is floored, simulating WOT (right):
This test was done key-on, engine-off.
Next was accessing the FPDM. Even though it is underneath the c-pillar cover, because of the way Ford decided to assemble this car, you have to remove almost the entire rear interior, lol....ugh.....
Here is everything off but placed loosely back into position, other than the c-pillar cover:
It was at this point that I did some data collection on what the FPDM is seeing. I have two Fluke meters so I decided to also see how that voltage compares to what the pedal sensor is putting out. Here's a video compilation:
I have plans to wire this in such a way that I can remove the BAP and put it back to stock relatively easily. This requires the use of my extensive Deutsch connector set:
Here is the JMS "wiring" guide and which wire is needed to be intercepted:
Last edited:
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
Fuel Pump Voltage Booster (aka Boost-A-Pump) Part 02
And here is the OEM wiring schematic along with connector C3239 pinout, the wire of concern here is wire #1:
Tape peeled back and power wire exposed (Purple/Green Stripe...Incredible Hulk colors, how appropriate for the POWAH wire, LOL):
Using a specific Deutsch crimper...
...you can make these male/female ferrule crimps:
One side done. Just one wire from the FPDM to this connector:
Other side done. As you can see it has 2 wires, one going to an existing ground. When it's connected in OEM configuration, it goes nowhere, but when it is connected in BAP configuration, it will be the ground for the BAP wire.
And here it is in full OEM configuration. I can easily connect/disconnect as needed:
Now onto the BAP connector itself. The wires are just cut wild when you get it from JMS, but I took a page out of the MSD book and used a DTP Deutsch connector end here as well:
Now to make the harness that connects the BAP to the FPDM using more DTP Deutsch connectors:
Going to leave one end wild for the time being until I identify where the BAP will be physically mounted so I can figure how long the other end needs to be.
For the time being, onto the mounting location and brackets. I decided I would secure the device to the roll bar that is in the cargo area. Thought it would look pretty trick and also be close to the FPDM.
For the base brackets, I used some 1" by 0.25" aluminum bar stock I had laying around. I cut two pieces 4.125" long and started measuring them up for some mounting holes:
I'll round the edges and make it look nice and likely powdercoat these as well.
And here is the OEM wiring schematic along with connector C3239 pinout, the wire of concern here is wire #1:
Tape peeled back and power wire exposed (Purple/Green Stripe...Incredible Hulk colors, how appropriate for the POWAH wire, LOL):
Using a specific Deutsch crimper...
...you can make these male/female ferrule crimps:
One side done. Just one wire from the FPDM to this connector:
Other side done. As you can see it has 2 wires, one going to an existing ground. When it's connected in OEM configuration, it goes nowhere, but when it is connected in BAP configuration, it will be the ground for the BAP wire.
And here it is in full OEM configuration. I can easily connect/disconnect as needed:
Now onto the BAP connector itself. The wires are just cut wild when you get it from JMS, but I took a page out of the MSD book and used a DTP Deutsch connector end here as well:
Now to make the harness that connects the BAP to the FPDM using more DTP Deutsch connectors:
Going to leave one end wild for the time being until I identify where the BAP will be physically mounted so I can figure how long the other end needs to be.
For the time being, onto the mounting location and brackets. I decided I would secure the device to the roll bar that is in the cargo area. Thought it would look pretty trick and also be close to the FPDM.
For the base brackets, I used some 1" by 0.25" aluminum bar stock I had laying around. I cut two pieces 4.125" long and started measuring them up for some mounting holes:
I'll round the edges and make it look nice and likely powdercoat these as well.
Last edited:
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
Fuel Pump Voltage Booster (aka Boost-A-Pump) Part 03
For the roll bar attachment, I got 2 of the 1.50" Longacre mounts:
There was one small issue. The roll bar wasn't an exact 1.50", it was more like 1.55". Not much, but enough for it to not fit properly. I was going to have to do a little bit of grinding on it...so I conveniently had a spacer laying around that was 1.50" with a shoulder of 1.60". It worked out pretty nicely to give me an edge to go off of:
I'll likely powdercoat these along with the above brackets. In addition to the brackets, I used some of these rubber isolators to give it some vibration dampening:
Here's the device mocked up:
Now I can start making the connecting wire harness. It's running behind the wheel well panel cover and up to the c-pillar:
After marking where I need to trim and where the terminal ends need to go, here's the final piece to the puzzle:
So, JMS calls for replacement of the FPDM fuse and upgrade it to a 30A fuse. Well, it just so happens, the fuse for our platform's FPDM is already 30A (the only green fuse in the photo). It's found in the Battery Junction Box under the hood, position F65:
Once that is done, now it's time to crank it up, do some testing setup and test this puppy out! This is a hot mess as I'm simply doing setup/testing to make sure everything works:
So, what settings am I using, you ask? Well, According to Deatschwerks, the pump is good for spurts of 18.0vdc. The highest I saw this at WOT was about 14.8vdc. I want to ease into it for now, so I'm not going to go over 17.0vdc.
So, I got it setup for maximum voltage boost of 17.0vdc. Using the pedal position sensor, I want to ramp it in using the largest ramp the unit allows for, a 1.2vdc sensor ramp. I have it set to begin boosting at a sensor reading of ~1.40vdc (~20% "throttle"), which means it is at full 17.0vdc at ~2.60vdc (~55% "throttle").
During testing at idle, it sees standard vehicle voltage, but as soon as the pedal is depressed, once it gets to the 1.4vdc value, you can see the FPDM voltage increasing. Now to take it on the road and see how it responds...
...road testing turned out interesting and I'm actually very pleased at the improved pressure readings. I did a log both before and after. Here are the results, all else was equal including the tune. This was a 3rd gear run from 2k RPM all the way to 6k RPM.
Before BAP:
Brown = Low Pressure Desired
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Before BAP:
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Blue = High Pressure Actual
Before BAP:
Yellow = High Pressure Desired
Blue = High Pressure Actual
With BAP (no tune revision):
Brown = Low Pressure Desired
Green = Low Pressure Actual
With BAP (no tune revision):
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Blue = High Pressure Actual
With BAP (no tune revision):
Yellow = High Pressure Desired
Blue = High Pressure Actual
For the roll bar attachment, I got 2 of the 1.50" Longacre mounts:
There was one small issue. The roll bar wasn't an exact 1.50", it was more like 1.55". Not much, but enough for it to not fit properly. I was going to have to do a little bit of grinding on it...so I conveniently had a spacer laying around that was 1.50" with a shoulder of 1.60". It worked out pretty nicely to give me an edge to go off of:
I'll likely powdercoat these along with the above brackets. In addition to the brackets, I used some of these rubber isolators to give it some vibration dampening:
Here's the device mocked up:
Now I can start making the connecting wire harness. It's running behind the wheel well panel cover and up to the c-pillar:
After marking where I need to trim and where the terminal ends need to go, here's the final piece to the puzzle:
So, JMS calls for replacement of the FPDM fuse and upgrade it to a 30A fuse. Well, it just so happens, the fuse for our platform's FPDM is already 30A (the only green fuse in the photo). It's found in the Battery Junction Box under the hood, position F65:
Once that is done, now it's time to crank it up, do some testing setup and test this puppy out! This is a hot mess as I'm simply doing setup/testing to make sure everything works:
So, what settings am I using, you ask? Well, According to Deatschwerks, the pump is good for spurts of 18.0vdc. The highest I saw this at WOT was about 14.8vdc. I want to ease into it for now, so I'm not going to go over 17.0vdc.
So, I got it setup for maximum voltage boost of 17.0vdc. Using the pedal position sensor, I want to ramp it in using the largest ramp the unit allows for, a 1.2vdc sensor ramp. I have it set to begin boosting at a sensor reading of ~1.40vdc (~20% "throttle"), which means it is at full 17.0vdc at ~2.60vdc (~55% "throttle").
During testing at idle, it sees standard vehicle voltage, but as soon as the pedal is depressed, once it gets to the 1.4vdc value, you can see the FPDM voltage increasing. Now to take it on the road and see how it responds...
...road testing turned out interesting and I'm actually very pleased at the improved pressure readings. I did a log both before and after. Here are the results, all else was equal including the tune. This was a 3rd gear run from 2k RPM all the way to 6k RPM.
Before BAP:
Brown = Low Pressure Desired
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Before BAP:
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Blue = High Pressure Actual
Before BAP:
Yellow = High Pressure Desired
Blue = High Pressure Actual
With BAP (no tune revision):
Brown = Low Pressure Desired
Green = Low Pressure Actual
With BAP (no tune revision):
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Blue = High Pressure Actual
With BAP (no tune revision):
Yellow = High Pressure Desired
Blue = High Pressure Actual
Last edited:
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
Fuel Pump Voltage Booster (aka Boost-A-Pump) Part 04
As you can see, the low-side actual pressure was quite a bit better than the run without the BAP. This tells me there is a bit more flow. It could still use some help at the end, but it's markedly better.
So, now that testing is done, onto final assembly...
Here are those brackets rounded out:
And all the small pieces soda-blasted. I'm leaving it raw aluminum but may end up powder coating them once I get enough other stuff to make a decent size run:
Secured the wire harness behind the interior panel:
Final position of the BAP:
And I decided to leave that small c-pillar panel off permanently for weight savings! No, seriously, I'm going to leave it off as I may need to access this area from time to time. One issue is the seatbelt goes through it. I've got the airbag seatbelts so it took a few steps trying to figure out how to get that big click connector through the hole without cutting the panel.
Separate the plastic halves. They just pry apart:
You'll have to push down on the spring metal tab under this side of the pin and pull the pin out. The tab holds the pin in place:
Here is the pin removed, and you can see how it holds everything together:
And here you see everything separated. Just pull the belt through the hole of the c-pillar cover and re-assemble the seatbelt...too easy:
The trigger wire that goes to the pedal position sensor I am running down the other side of the vehicle. Here's the other interior panel off:
Running it down the rear passenger door sill:
Front driver doorsill:
And up into the foot pedal area:
Cool little cheap tool I learned to use when I worked at a car stereo install shop...a very large HVAC zip-tie (36" long or so) with the head cut off. This is an AWESOME tool for feeding wires through places...get em from your big box hardware store. It's definitely one of my "must-have" tools as it's been indispensable throughout the years.
Anyway, once the wires were run up into that area, everything was reconnected and tested. All the interior panels where put back together and all is done! Now to go get some datalogs!
So, some results after a tune revision (btw, I'm still dialing this tune in with Brad, so this isn't the final tune).
With BAP (with tune revision):
Brown = Low Pressure Desired
Green = Low Pressure Actual
With BAP (with tune revision):
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Blue = High Pressure Actual
With BAP (with tune revision):
Yellow = High Pressure Desired
Blue = High Pressure Actual
As you can see, the low-side actual pressure was quite a bit better than the run without the BAP. This tells me there is a bit more flow. It could still use some help at the end, but it's markedly better.
So, now that testing is done, onto final assembly...
Here are those brackets rounded out:
And all the small pieces soda-blasted. I'm leaving it raw aluminum but may end up powder coating them once I get enough other stuff to make a decent size run:
Secured the wire harness behind the interior panel:
Final position of the BAP:
And I decided to leave that small c-pillar panel off permanently for weight savings! No, seriously, I'm going to leave it off as I may need to access this area from time to time. One issue is the seatbelt goes through it. I've got the airbag seatbelts so it took a few steps trying to figure out how to get that big click connector through the hole without cutting the panel.
Separate the plastic halves. They just pry apart:
You'll have to push down on the spring metal tab under this side of the pin and pull the pin out. The tab holds the pin in place:
Here is the pin removed, and you can see how it holds everything together:
And here you see everything separated. Just pull the belt through the hole of the c-pillar cover and re-assemble the seatbelt...too easy:
The trigger wire that goes to the pedal position sensor I am running down the other side of the vehicle. Here's the other interior panel off:
Running it down the rear passenger door sill:
Front driver doorsill:
And up into the foot pedal area:
Cool little cheap tool I learned to use when I worked at a car stereo install shop...a very large HVAC zip-tie (36" long or so) with the head cut off. This is an AWESOME tool for feeding wires through places...get em from your big box hardware store. It's definitely one of my "must-have" tools as it's been indispensable throughout the years.
Anyway, once the wires were run up into that area, everything was reconnected and tested. All the interior panels where put back together and all is done! Now to go get some datalogs!
So, some results after a tune revision (btw, I'm still dialing this tune in with Brad, so this isn't the final tune).
With BAP (with tune revision):
Brown = Low Pressure Desired
Green = Low Pressure Actual
With BAP (with tune revision):
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Blue = High Pressure Actual
With BAP (with tune revision):
Yellow = High Pressure Desired
Blue = High Pressure Actual
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Michigan-SHO
SHO Member
A couple things:
First off, this is a terrific write up and a solution that really showcases your talent and ingenuity.
Second, do you work for NASA? Who has multiple Fluke readers and an entire tackle box of Deutsch connectors?
And finally, is there any seat of the pants feel to the tune revision? Does it “feel” stronger up top?
First off, this is a terrific write up and a solution that really showcases your talent and ingenuity.
Second, do you work for NASA? Who has multiple Fluke readers and an entire tackle box of Deutsch connectors?
And finally, is there any seat of the pants feel to the tune revision? Does it “feel” stronger up top?
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
Lol thanks for the compliments. But no, I'm just a self-taught gearhead with a severe OCD complex, lol. Locally, I'm actually known for my wire harness building as I do it alot for various things, mostly building harnesses for custom bikes. So I own alot of specialty crimping and pin removal tools as well as a wide selection of connector types, terminal ends and sheathing.
As for the tune, absolutely I feel a difference. I now having traction problems more than I've ever had. I really need to get some better tires....lol.
Michigan-SHO
SHO Member
Not sure if you know who Rywire is in the import scene, but, he made wiring harnesses too. But he turned it into a multi-national company, with a cult like following.
Trust me, if I could afford one I would get one for my Zenki 240sx and put an ls2 in ASAP.
FiveLeeter918
Ortiz Performance Sales
thanks for sharing! love the attention to detail.
Put me down for one of these! Will this be added to the X-Sport store? The weakest link in my fuel system is definitely the in tank pump DW300C. It became obvious how inferior it truly was once I added Xtreme-DI 2000cc injectors and EVO HPFP.
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