Clutch or Pressure plate issues probably, 92 MTX

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RookieSHO

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I have been experience issues shifting on my SHO
  1. Couldn't change gear with the clutch pressed down
  2. it kinda felt like the clutch cable broke when press the peddle but I checked the cable and it's not broken
  3. the peddle felt easy to press
  4. my car would start moving right after I start the engine
I end up driving back home which was less than a mile away while without using the clutch and my gears didn't grind when I shift gears, I had to turn off my engine to put it in reverse to straighten up my car at my home and the weirdest part is that my shifting started working again :scratch:
 

luigisho

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Could be a clutch issue with the bearing or the fingers messed up. No nioses? There is a clutch adjustment mechanism (which is usually a mess at this age) but intermittent failure sounds like something wasn't lining up correctly or jammed.
 

RonPorter

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Sounds like the clutch is gone, either the fingers or the disc worn. As was mentioned, you can try the clutch adjustment ratchet to get the pedal up a bit.

Does the clutch slip under acceleration in any gear? With a few clutches I've worn out, it first starts slipping in 5th,
then
4th, and once it started slipping in 3rd, it was time to do something about it soon.
 

RookieSHO

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Could be a clutch issue with the bearing or the fingers messed up. No nioses? There is a clutch adjustment mechanism (which is usually a mess at this age) but intermittent failure sounds like something wasn't lining up correctly or jammed.
I kinda hear some whining noise when driving slow but it goes away when I press the clutch


Sounds like the clutch is gone, either the fingers or the disc worn. As was mentioned, you can try the clutch adjustment ratchet to get the pedal up a bit.

Does the clutch slip under acceleration in any gear? With a few clutches I've worn out, it first starts slipping in 5th,
then
4th, and once it started slipping in 3rd, it was time to do something about it soon.

It doesn't felt like the clutch is slipping but just unable to get out of gear with the clutch peddle pressed down, also when I turn off my engine I was able to change gears then starting the engine in reverse temporally fixes my issue
 

BaySHO Performance

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Thanks for the plug, Ron. The fingers are worn on the clutch to the point where it doesn't fully disengage, even with the pedal pressed all the way to the floor. You need a new clutch ASAP. You can raise the engagement point off the floor for the time being so that you can continue to drive it:

http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/Adjusting_the_clutch_cable
 

RookieSHO

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Give the clutch adjustment via the pedal a try, that could get you more time. @BaySHO Performance can help.
Thanks for the plug, Ron. The fingers are worn on the clutch to the point where it doesn't fully disengage, even with the pedal pressed all the way to the floor. You need a new clutch ASAP. You can raise the engagement point off the floor for the time being so that you can continue to drive it:

http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/Adjusting_the_clutch_cable

thanks for the info and I'll try that next time, I decided to buy a new 9.75" clutch from advance auto parts for $188.31 including tax and 25% off because of the lifetime warranty, part number MU122-1RK

I'm also thinking about ordering the SHO NUT Ceramic TOB from the shosource website or the tob from the kit will do just fine?

right now I'm using my family member's 94 sho for the time being until I get my car fixed since I can't change gears anymore with the engine running
 

luigisho

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Now I haven't used Josh's ceramic TOB, but be aware that it may make a little noise as I recall. So don't get freaked out by it if you get it installed.
I would get a Valeo or Sach's from Rock Auto ( Huge price difference) unless I knew the house brand was a good mfg. I like carquest stuff, not sure if I clutch like their stuff.
I don't beat on the tranny so I never needed the Cer TOB. Works good so far over 25+ yrs and several SHO's
 

RonPorter

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Yeah, the TOB is one of those $5 parts that takes $500 worth of labor to replace when it screws up. Put the good ceramic one in up front, and be done with it.
 

RookieSHO

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okay and thanks for the info, I decided to get the ceramic TOB
 

RookieSHO

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I was able to remove the engine out of my car and remove the old clutch off the flywheel with my family member's help, the clutch is bad
 

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zak

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You caught it just in time, tips on spring fingers about to break through
 

RookieSHO

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You caught it just in time, tips on spring fingers about to break through
yea, with all of the info I have been researching and from this form help and from what I have been experiencing with my car that I found my answer

Got any pics of the Carquest clutch before it goes in?

I got some pictures, I looked up the clutch part number and it's a Perfection brand



also here is my status update on my car repair
  1. replace the camshaft seal that's behind the sensor since it was leaking and brittle
  2. replaced the back crankshaft seal and gasket
  3. Replaced the 3/8" power steering Reservoir Line Hose
  4. replaced the tob sleeve (it was a pain to get off but the transmission wasn't harmed in the processes)
  5. installed the new clutch
 

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RookieSHO

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Looks good. up and running?
I finally got my car up and ruining this Friday, the new clutch fixed my issues and runs great but it's gonna take time for the clutch to break in so I'm gonna go easy on it

Yep, and the disc even looks an awful lot like the Sachs I just bought, but the Perfection is ~$50 cheaper.
I think it's the same design but different brand

at first the clutch peddle was very difficult to press and when I try to shift to reverse and then slowly release it but the car didn't move so I turned off my car and inspect the peddle, I pulled up the peddle and felt it reset then the clutch started working and now the peddle is easy to press on

also here is some progress pictures from last week
 

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