Unknown_Driver
V6TwinTurboAWD
Start By Removing the Trunk interior Panels
to start, lift the (trunk opening scuff plate) black plastic where the trunk latch is up towards the sky it will pop out fairly easily, next unscrew every sticking out plastic tab on the sides near the tail lights and the trunk net hooks now take a grommet removal tool and pry on every flat body panel grommet (some are very difficult to remove fully) you will also need to fold down the rear seats to access 2 grommets,
next step door sill plate... you will need to lift up the door sill plate firmly they are very difficult
now grab your power wire and find out which grommet in the firewall you want to pass it through, this is entirely your decision but everyone has chosen a different route (the one i used is not recommended and won't be mentioned in this post
) the best route is located just below the drivers side wiper 
if you own an older model amplifier that requires a remote turn on 12 volt positive signal, under the steering wheel well above the brake pedal (way up in there) you will find a fuse box thats not easily accessible by anyone taller than 4'6 and a body contortionist ex upside down pole dancer, in your manual you will find a mini fuse labeled "delayed accessory fuse" this is where you will be adding a tap-a-fuse, add-a-circuit connector thing. run your remote wire to this
, for added safety i also added another low amperage inline fuse closer to the amp (do not use any fuses with more than 10 amps with any tap-a-fuse type of connector)
now to grab that audio signal...
don't touch anything here its hopeless
you will need to pull down on the liner covering the subs in the trunk, just pull down firmly, you will find velcro and a few useless body clips keeping it in place, take any line converter the best choice would be an Audiocontrol LC2i, i went with a Scosche 2 channe LOC80 rebranded as E2 at canadian tire which handles 80 watts per channel, wrapspeaker wire on the terminals of the factory subwoofers (this allows you to keep factory bass going, no neeed to splice any factory wire) now twist the other end of the speaker wire to the line converter wire and wrap with electrical tape or shrinkwrap (soldering would be awesome) now grab some 2 way adhevsive sticky tape and stick your line conveter somewhere onto the side (probably close to the tail light access flap screws so you can make adjustments down the road)
now to find a grounding location for that negative wire this is entirely up to you, some people sand a random metal spot and bolt it or if you were me, attach it to the grounding plate where the factory amp was
now perform a quick test with everything wired properly don't forget you must have a fuse close to the battery on the positive side of the main power wire, please use the proper wire gauge for power do not use anything smaller than 8 gauge for whatever reason as it may result in a fire.
everything run fine? tuck the wire in the door sills reconnect the panels and tune to your ears content
congrats you now have king kong in your trunk
Tools you will need:
Electricians Pliers
Wire Cutters
Sharp Scissors
Digital Multimeter
Panel Removal Tool
10mm wrench
More Pictures ASAP i was too busy driving around
couldn't believe i spent most of my time checking the voltage of every connector/fuse/light socket just to find a 12 volt remote signal
thank god for having an event tent it was 32c today :sun:
EDIT: UPDATE MORE PICS
this is the fuse panel below the steering column where the add-a-circuit or tap a fuse is located
to give you a better idea the red wire with the blue connector is the add-a-circuit
you may want to add another ground point for the battery to chassis connection
although the rear grounding plate works well just for added safety i added another ground point using an M8 bolt with washer and nut you will need to sand down some paint for a proper ground.
you can also see the location of the line converter
the line converter was added by twisting on wire to the factory speaker terminals (no splicing to any factory wiring was necessary)
to start, lift the (trunk opening scuff plate) black plastic where the trunk latch is up towards the sky it will pop out fairly easily, next unscrew every sticking out plastic tab on the sides near the tail lights and the trunk net hooks now take a grommet removal tool and pry on every flat body panel grommet (some are very difficult to remove fully) you will also need to fold down the rear seats to access 2 grommets,
next step door sill plate... you will need to lift up the door sill plate firmly they are very difficult
now grab your power wire and find out which grommet in the firewall you want to pass it through, this is entirely your decision but everyone has chosen a different route (the one i used is not recommended and won't be mentioned in this post
) the best route is located just below the drivers side wiper if you own an older model amplifier that requires a remote turn on 12 volt positive signal, under the steering wheel well above the brake pedal (way up in there) you will find a fuse box thats not easily accessible by anyone taller than 4'6 and a body contortionist ex upside down pole dancer, in your manual you will find a mini fuse labeled "delayed accessory fuse" this is where you will be adding a tap-a-fuse, add-a-circuit connector thing. run your remote wire to this
, for added safety i also added another low amperage inline fuse closer to the amp (do not use any fuses with more than 10 amps with any tap-a-fuse type of connector)now to grab that audio signal...
don't touch anything here its hopeless
you will need to pull down on the liner covering the subs in the trunk, just pull down firmly, you will find velcro and a few useless body clips keeping it in place, take any line converter the best choice would be an Audiocontrol LC2i, i went with a Scosche 2 channe LOC80 rebranded as E2 at canadian tire which handles 80 watts per channel, wrapspeaker wire on the terminals of the factory subwoofers (this allows you to keep factory bass going, no neeed to splice any factory wire) now twist the other end of the speaker wire to the line converter wire and wrap with electrical tape or shrinkwrap (soldering would be awesome) now grab some 2 way adhevsive sticky tape and stick your line conveter somewhere onto the side (probably close to the tail light access flap screws so you can make adjustments down the road)
now to find a grounding location for that negative wire this is entirely up to you, some people sand a random metal spot and bolt it or if you were me, attach it to the grounding plate where the factory amp was
now perform a quick test with everything wired properly don't forget you must have a fuse close to the battery on the positive side of the main power wire, please use the proper wire gauge for power do not use anything smaller than 8 gauge for whatever reason as it may result in a fire.
everything run fine? tuck the wire in the door sills reconnect the panels and tune to your ears content
congrats you now have king kong in your trunk
Tools you will need:
Electricians Pliers
Wire Cutters
Sharp Scissors
Digital Multimeter
Panel Removal Tool
10mm wrench
More Pictures ASAP i was too busy driving around
couldn't believe i spent most of my time checking the voltage of every connector/fuse/light socket just to find a 12 volt remote signal
thank god for having an event tent it was 32c today :sun:
EDIT: UPDATE MORE PICS
this is the fuse panel below the steering column where the add-a-circuit or tap a fuse is located
to give you a better idea the red wire with the blue connector is the add-a-circuit
you may want to add another ground point for the battery to chassis connection
although the rear grounding plate works well just for added safety i added another ground point using an M8 bolt with washer and nut you will need to sand down some paint for a proper ground.
you can also see the location of the line converter
the line converter was added by twisting on wire to the factory speaker terminals (no splicing to any factory wiring was necessary)
Last edited:
