You know your starter is bad when....

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CPUNeck

Glow-plug Detox
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Replaced clutch this weekend. Now the d*&% thing won't start.

Symptoms:
Sometimes you get initial engine turn over
Usually you get varying degrees of "click", but not always
If you hold the key in the "start" position your interior lights will dim and "flicker"


Tested:
Checked tightness of the double Pos connection on the starter-->>Good
Checked tightness of Pos Signal from ignition-->> Good
Checked batt connections -->> Good
Batt is an Ultima Red top, tested good @ Autozone. Lights are bright, horn good, etc.
Bought new starter (told the punk behind the counter it didn't look right, as usual I was right, and IT was wrong) changed the solenoids on the starters thinking it could be that, same symptoms.
Checked current draw on Neg batt lead during start function, over 230Amps:oogle: (I have no idea if that is out side of spec or not. Not mentioned in the manual and I have no experience with gassers.... My Powerstroke easily could draw 300+ :evilgrin:)

Is this how you know you have a bad starter?:shakehead
 

93rev2sev

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In more than one..

You betcha!

In completely other words...
Take it apart and clean it, reinstall it and take your time buying a new one.
 

CPUNeck

Glow-plug Detox
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Well here's the update:

O'Rileys had one in stock. It was a reman, but has a LLTW. I'll get one from a junk yard and have a rebuilder do the right thing for the future. It really turns over now, much faster than my buddy pushing the car:laugh_ti::laugh_ti:.

I'll also post what the new Amp reading is for a new/good unit. I've found that while it is important to be able to measure voltage, amperage is very important also.

I have a Fluke 336 meter that is awesome.
http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/specifications.htm?cs_id=30405(FlukeProducts)&category=ELW(FlukeProducts)
 

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