Won't start after replacing timing belt

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psix

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Hey!
Well, the dancing continues. I removed the crankshaft sensor, it was covered in dirt, oil and sand. I installed a spare one, the tachometer needle stopped jumping and spun briskly, but the spark was gone.
 

psix

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did you try starting it with the cam sensor unplugged
before that, yes, nothing changed, and I tried three sensors, but it didn’t give any results. The error 214 could also be in the crankshaft sensor, I read it on neighboring forums.
 

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In general, I removed the manifold again, checked everything, you can’t screw it in crookedly. Power comes to the injectors. I assemble it and see that the tachometer needle has stopped working.
I checked all the wires, everything is ok.
and of course it won't start.
 

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after replacing the crankshaft sensor, the difference was that the tachometer needle did not twitch, but rose smoothly and there was a spark.
remove and install the manifold, the tachometer needle does not work. Most likely the wiring harness needs to be looked at? Most likely the one that goes to dis.
 

zoomlater

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Did you gap the crank sensor when you replaced it according to the manual and use the same screws that were there before
 

psix

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Did you gap the crank sensor when you replaced it according to the manual and use the same screws that were there before
I have it on one screw, but it’s original. I checked the ground and the power that goes to the sensor, everything is there.
I'm checking the ignition module now, maybe you know what the resistance should be? It shows approximately 12.5 at all.
 

zoomlater

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There are two screws so it doesn't move, I don't know if you can get away with just one without running into issues sooner or later. The screws are stainless if I recall and for a reason due to the operation of the sensor. If the sensor moved or is not gapped correctly, it can get destroyed by the rotating vanes.
 

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There are two screws so it doesn't move, I don't know if you can get away with just one without running into issues sooner or later. The screws are stainless if I recall and for a reason due to the operation of the sensor. If the sensor moved or is not gapped correctly, it can get destroyed by the rotating vanes.
yeah, you were right. shit
 

psix

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There are two screws so it doesn't move, I don't know if you can get away with just one without running into issues sooner or later. The screws are stainless if I recall and for a reason due to the operation of the sensor. If the sensor moved or is not gapped correctly, it can get destroyed by the rotating vanes.
 

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psix

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There are two screws so it doesn't move, I don't know if you can get away with just one without running into issues sooner or later. The screws are stainless if I recall and for a reason due to the operation of the sensor. If the sensor moved or is not gapped correctly, it can get destroyed by the rotating vanes.
I installed the old sensor, there was a spark on it and the tachometer worked, tightened the two bolts and checked that it was level. In general, the tachometer does not work and there is no spark. Now you need to look at the entire circuit, as I understand it? Any ideas? Thanks in advance. ****, I don’t know anymore what to expect from her.
 

zoomlater

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So your first sentence says something opposite to your second sentence.

Did you check if you had fuel pressure at the Schraeder valve on top of the intake?
You should try and get back to where it was turning over and trying to start. Does it try to start at all anymore?
 

psix

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So your first sentence says something opposite to your second sentence.

Did you check if you had fuel pressure at the Schraeder valve on top of the intake?
You should try and get back to where it was turning over and trying to start. Does it try to start at all anymore?
there is no start, the spark is gone and the tachometer does not work. The fuel pump works.
 

psix

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So your first sentence says something opposite to your second sentence.

Did you check if you had fuel pressure at the Schraeder valve on top of the intake?
You should try and get back to where it was turning over and trying to start. Does it try to start at all anymore?
The bolts I already have are not original, the original ones have mysteriously disappeared. Perhaps because of this, the sensor is positioned a little differently and it will no longer read?
Although it’s strange, it worked on one bolt, but it was original.

the whole problem is that I do this without removing the crankshaft pulley, the bolt that holds it is licked and tightly tightened. I planned that as soon as I started the car, I would go remove the pulley and assemble everything normally.
 

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read through this post, they use stainless steel screws for a reason so you will need to find replacements in order to work properly with the crank position sensor (hall effect sensor). You need to provide the correct gap when you install the sensor, that is why the mounting holes are elongated. Get a Ford manual and follow the correct procedure for installing the sensor.

 

psix

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read through this post, they use stainless steel screws for a reason so you will need to find replacements in order to work properly with the crank position sensor (hall effect sensor). You need to provide the correct gap when you install the sensor, that is why the mounting holes are elongated. Get a Ford manual and follow the correct procedure for installing the sensor.

I broke the second sensor, congratulations. I love this car. As soon as I find a sensor with bolts, I'll try to move the camshaft 180 forward.
 
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