Won't start after replacing timing belt

[psix]

Guys, hello everyone!
The situation is a little strange, perhaps someone has dealt with this, I would be grateful for a hint.
In general, the timing belt broke, installed a new one, everything is on the marks, the valves are all moving, there is compression in the cylinders, there is a spark, there is gasoline, the engine turns, grabs a little but does not start.
Before this, I removed the manifold to check the valves, maybe the system needs to be pumped with the starter to get it to start? Thanks in advance!

link to video, demo does not start:

IMG_5739.MOV

drive.google.com

 

[Irish Pride]

There are three things an engine need to run. Air, spark, and gasoline. If your car isn't starting then you are missing one of those three.

A no start situation after doing a timing belt is usually associated to the crank sensor not being installed correctly or a bad/missing ground during re-installation. Check the grounds on the DIS, the crossover tube on the intake that the DIS is mounted to, and the ground strap that connects to the back of the intake.

-Chad

 

[rubydist]

Agreed.

It does not sound to me like it it firing, so I suspect that there is no spark. What did you do that causes you to say there is spark?

 

[psix]

There are three things an engine need to run. Air, spark, and gasoline. If your car isn't starting then you are missing one of those three.

A no start situation after doing a timing belt is usually associated to the crank sensor not being installed correctly or a bad/missing ground during re-installation. Check the grounds on the DIS, the crossover tube on the intake that the DIS is mounted to, and the ground strap that connects to the back of the intake.

-Chad

I applied additional weight to the dis, rechecked all the wires, added another camshaft sensor. The belt broke, but I didn’t know about it, I did self-diagnosis, there was only error 551.

 

[psix]

you take out the ignition coil, attach a spark plug to it and apply it to the engine, turn the starter and watch for a spark)

Agreed.

It does not sound to me like it it firing, so I suspect that there is no spark. What did you do that causes you to say there is spark?

 

[psix]

There are three things an engine need to run. Air, spark, and gasoline. If your car isn't starting then you are missing one of those three.

A no start situation after doing a timing belt is usually associated to the crank sensor not being installed correctly or a bad/missing ground during re-installation. Check the grounds on the DIS, the crossover tube on the intake that the DIS is mounted to, and the ground strap that connects to the back of the intake.

-Chad

what kind of jumper is that on the intake manifold?

 

[psix]

I also removed the engine control unit, disassembled it, had an electrician look at it, everything was fine visually. According to the diagram, it is responsible for the moment the spark drops and the ignition angle.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

The only thing I can think of is that the timing belt is off a tooth. Realizing you said that 'everything is on the marks'

 

[Greg Corcoran]

There are three things an engine need to run. Air, spark, and gasoline. If your car isn't starting then you are missing one of those three.

A no start situation after doing a timing belt is usually associated to the crank sensor not being installed correctly or a bad/missing ground during re-installation. Check the grounds on the DIS, the crossover tube on the intake that the DIS is mounted to, and the ground strap that connects to the back of the intake.

-Chad

The piece I'm missing is how the intake removal lets you check the valves? I would think the compression check took care of that? But I'm thinking more he means removed the intake to remove the valve covers to watch the valves move? So that's a lot of disassembly that is not a typical part of a timing belt replacement... which offers a lot of chance for missing a piece of the process during reassembly.
I have encountered a vacuum leak large enough to prevent a V-8 pushrod motor from starting after a cam replacement. Even though I had fuel, spark and air, I had too much air and it kinda chugged but wouldn't catch. If Psix is 100% confident his fuel pressure is correct, his firing order is correct and spark is present that seems to exonerate the computer and the CCRM. So it has to be too much or too little air? It doesn't hurt to try spraying ether. With a helper cranking the engine spray ether at the intake and runner connections to see if there is a vacuum leak. That's how I found the vacuum leak and solved my no start on the 351C.

 

[Greg Corcoran]

I also removed the engine control unit, disassembled it, had an electrician look at it, everything was fine visually. According to the diagram, it is responsible for the moment the spark drops and the ignition angle.

I'm not sure what to make of this statement... If you mean the ECU/PCM behind the glove box what can an electrician tell you by "looking"? That is certainly not part of a timing belt replacement...

 

[BaySHO Performance]

My interpretation is that he checked the valve clearances.

 

[rubydist]

you take out the ignition coil, attach a spark plug to it and apply it to the engine, turn the starter and watch for a spark)

And what did you do that causes you to say that it has fuel? What do the plugs look like when you pull them out? (are they wet or dry?)

 

[psix]

The piece I'm missing is how the intake removal lets you check the valves? I would think the compression check took care of that? But I'm thinking more he means removed the intake to remove the valve covers to watch the valves move? So that's a lot of disassembly that is not a typical part of a timing belt replacement... which offers a lot of chance for missing a piece of the process during reassembly.
I have encountered a vacuum leak large enough to prevent a V-8 pushrod motor from starting after a cam replacement. Even though I had fuel, spark and air, I had too much air and it kinda chugged but wouldn't catch. If Psix is 100% confident his fuel pressure is correct, his firing order is correct and spark is present that seems to exonerate the computer and the CCRM. So it has to be too much or too little air? It doesn't hurt to try spraying ether. With a helper cranking the engine spray ether at the intake and runner connections to see if there is a vacuum leak. That's how I found the vacuum leak and solved my no start on the 351C.

Removing the valve cover made it clear that all the valves are moving. The actual compression measurement indicates that they are alive.

I sprayed with ether, shots appeared from the muffler, the last time I sprayed, I put the can on the air filter and ran to turn the starter, there was a huge explosion, the can flew up from the air filter, and white smoke came out, again from the air filter.))

 

[psix]

yes, but this is unlikely, the car was driving before the belt broke. I took it off just in case and checked it. The car shook violently when the belt broke.

I'm not sure what to make of this statement... If you mean the ECU/PCM behind the glove box what can an electrician tell you by "looking"? That is certainly not part of a timing belt replacement...

 

[psix]

And what did you do that causes you to say that it has fuel? What do the plugs look like when you pull them out? (are they wet or dry?)

noise from the fuel pump and splashes from the ramp when you press the ******. Tomorrow I’ll turn the starter and unscrew the spark plug to see if it’s in the gasoline or not.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

The easiest way to see if the fuel pump is working is to turn on the ignition to see if it runs for a second to prime the fuel rails.

 

[rubydist]

ok, just because the fuel pump runs does not mean there is gas going to the cylinders. Since the video does not sound like it is firing at all, I am guessing that it is not firing the injectors, or they are all clogged up. Let us know if the plugs are wet or dry.

 

[psix]

ok, just because the fuel pump runs does not mean there is gas going to the cylinders. Since the video does not sound like it is firing at all, I am guessing that it is not firing the injectors, or they are all clogged up. Let us know if the plugs are wet or dry.

guys, hello again everyone! In general, I managed to start it, the fifth time. It’s difficult to start when you press the gas pedal all the way, without it it doesn’t catch at all. The engine makes noise, smokes, and only works on the gas pedal. The tachometer needle doesn’t work. I changed the spark plugs 6 thousand ago.

 

[psix]

I couldn’t unscrew the spark plugs, the key broke. I did a self-diagnosis, later I read the codes. I’m attaching a video.

first start with the gas pedal depressed

IMG_5771.MOV

drive.google.com

during launch intervals

IMG_5772.MOV

drive.google.com

started

IMG_5775.MOV

drive.google.com

at work

IMG_5779.MOV

drive.google.com

 

[psix]

issued codes:

214
564
528
542