Shifty
New Member
A friend of mine (SHOmama) has been having a lot of trouble with his fuel pump. I joined the SHOforum for a couple of reasons: 1.) To learn more about a really cool car, and 2.) To see if I could help SHOmama out. I, personally, don't own a SHO, but wouldn't mind doing so someday.
But on to my question...
Does anyone here have a wiring diagram for the fuel pump electrical system? SHOmama and I may have traced at least one of the wires up to the ECM, but the only clue we have that it's the same wire that comes out of the fuel pump connector is the fact that it's pink. There could be any number of pink wires in there.
As described in one of SHOmama's messages, we tried testing for power at the fuel pump connector, and got different volt readings at each one. I assumed that the black wire was a common, and so put the negative (-) probe of my voltmeter on it. Here are the readings that resulted when I put the positive (+) probe on the other wires, with the ignition turned on:
Pink: 2.0 volts.
Yellow: 7.8 volts.
Orange: Nothing.
Is the orange wire supposed to be hot? Are those readings correct? And am I even testing it properly?
When you first turn the ignition on, you can usually hear the fuel pump "priming" the fuel system for a second or so... does this mean that the volt readings for at least one of the above combinations should be higher during that time? It wasn't, when tested. All of the above readings remained constant, as long as the ignition was set to "run".
And another question:
This is back before any of his problems started...
When dinking around with the battery connectors, SHOmama and I didn't have them tight enough to allow sufficient current flow to start the car for a couple of tries. So when we tried to start it, as soon as the key was pushed to the "start" position, there was a small "snap" noise, and everything went dead. I've had this problem before, and I simply went out and wedged the battery connectors down harder on the terminals. He tried starting the car again, and the same thing happened. This time, we got out a wrench and tightened the suckers down good, and the car cranked. But all it did was crank; it never started. After much puzzling, I suggested we disconnect the battery to reset the computer (ECM?) because all the recent "incontinuity" problems might have confused it. Sure enough, after about a 1-minute wait, we connected the battery (tight) and the car started fine. It later died, due to a dead battery (we think his battery is going) but started fine after a jump from another Taurus. Later that day, it refused to start for SHOmama; cranked, but no fuel pump noise, and no raw gasoline smell coming from the tailpipe.
Could we have fried the ECM with all of our messing with the battery?
I'll leave it at that-- this post is long enough already! I appreciate anyone who takes the time to read and respond to it! And of course, so does SHOmama. Thanks guys!
But on to my question...
Does anyone here have a wiring diagram for the fuel pump electrical system? SHOmama and I may have traced at least one of the wires up to the ECM, but the only clue we have that it's the same wire that comes out of the fuel pump connector is the fact that it's pink. There could be any number of pink wires in there.
As described in one of SHOmama's messages, we tried testing for power at the fuel pump connector, and got different volt readings at each one. I assumed that the black wire was a common, and so put the negative (-) probe of my voltmeter on it. Here are the readings that resulted when I put the positive (+) probe on the other wires, with the ignition turned on:
Pink: 2.0 volts.
Yellow: 7.8 volts.
Orange: Nothing.
Is the orange wire supposed to be hot? Are those readings correct? And am I even testing it properly?
When you first turn the ignition on, you can usually hear the fuel pump "priming" the fuel system for a second or so... does this mean that the volt readings for at least one of the above combinations should be higher during that time? It wasn't, when tested. All of the above readings remained constant, as long as the ignition was set to "run".
And another question:
This is back before any of his problems started...
When dinking around with the battery connectors, SHOmama and I didn't have them tight enough to allow sufficient current flow to start the car for a couple of tries. So when we tried to start it, as soon as the key was pushed to the "start" position, there was a small "snap" noise, and everything went dead. I've had this problem before, and I simply went out and wedged the battery connectors down harder on the terminals. He tried starting the car again, and the same thing happened. This time, we got out a wrench and tightened the suckers down good, and the car cranked. But all it did was crank; it never started. After much puzzling, I suggested we disconnect the battery to reset the computer (ECM?) because all the recent "incontinuity" problems might have confused it. Sure enough, after about a 1-minute wait, we connected the battery (tight) and the car started fine. It later died, due to a dead battery (we think his battery is going) but started fine after a jump from another Taurus. Later that day, it refused to start for SHOmama; cranked, but no fuel pump noise, and no raw gasoline smell coming from the tailpipe.
Could we have fried the ECM with all of our messing with the battery?
I'll leave it at that-- this post is long enough already! I appreciate anyone who takes the time to read and respond to it! And of course, so does SHOmama. Thanks guys!
