Which clutch should I go with this time?

[92ShoOff]

Okay so my Fibertuff 9-puck evidently lasted me a good 5k miles. I absolutely HATED the thing while it was in though. It chattered at idle with the clutch pedal out, and it was grabby as **** you when starting off in first gear. I don't want a clutch like this anymore.

I like to be ******* my SHO at times and I need a clutch that can handle that. I don't mind if the pedal becomes a little stiffer.... but I just don't want a clutch that's going to chatter, and more importantly be as grabby as my Fibertuff. I'm also on somewhat of a budget, so now $700 discs. I already have a heavy duty pressure plate and ceramic coated TOB release shaft bushing, so all I should need is the disc. What would you guys recommend??

I'm sure similar discussions have already been posted, but for certain things I like to get personal opinions... especialyl being that I'm sure there are some new discs on the market since I bought my Fibertuff last summer.

Thanks!,
Andrew

 

[Shoaz]

If your engine doesn't have a ton of mods (i.e., makes less than 300hp) I'd suggest a stock disk. They're economical, the don't grab like a high-performance clutch (and all hi-po clutches _should_ do that), and they last a long time.

 

[MOSHO92]

I would not suggest using the old PP... That is most likely the culprit to your dead disk.

 

[DHMag]

i second the choice for a stock disc. many SHOs are running ~75 shot of NOS on a stock clutch and it holds fine.

i also second the notion of inspecting the pressure plate.

 

[92ShoOff]

So looks like I might go with the stock disc. But the pressure plate was installed the same time as the clutch.... only 5k miles ago. Regardless, I'll have it inspected but I don't think it's the issue. Thanks guys! Keep your opinions coming!

 

[shopartsnw]

I installed a SPEC stage 3 and love it. It is a 6 puck design and is supposed to be really grabby and chatter, but I see little of that. It is definitely an on or off clutch, but once you are used to it, it is great. It also has a light stock pedal feel.

If you are not highly modified, You could choose the Stage 2.

In any case, the whole kit (disk, PP, and TOB) cost about $440.

Hope you find what you are looking for. There are a lot of options, and even more opinions.

- Mike

 

[Dan H]

I recommend the Spec stage 2 (kevlar disk)

or the Spec stage 3 (6 puck disk)

The stage 2 has a light pedal and smooth engagement, and I agree with Mike, the stage 3 although more agressive than the stage 2 was nowhere near as grabby and chattery as people will lead you to believe. It is quite streetable. Spec will sell you just the disk if you contact them directly.

 

[SHOMeInPhx]

anyone used Clutchmasters' kit? $203 plus shipping..... i need to do a clutch too, new SHO owner, so want to avoid mistakes the FIRST time... thanks in advance!

 

[Racer X]

anyone used Clutchmasters' kit? $203 plus shipping..... i need to do a clutch too, new SHO owner, so want to avoid mistakes the FIRST time... thanks in advance!

$203? Link?

 

[SHOMeInPhx]

$203? Link?

http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/?...+++++++++++++360086&FromYear=1989&ToYear=1990

this one???

 

[shopartsnw]

Warning... Warning...

That clutch kit is listed for the 89-90 models which used the smaller flywheel and lighter duty pressure plate (remember recall?) - Ebay has a bunch of them dirt cheap too. The 91-95 kit is priced at $311 and that is the one you want. If you do in fact have an 89 or 90 with the original flywheel. Do yourself a huge favor and upgrade to the 91-95 flywheel so you can use the better clutch packs. I think I paid $280 at NAPA for a new stock clutch kit (PP, disk, TOB) if you want to save money.

My .02 (make that a full 25 cents), sorry for the bit of a rant, but I really don't think you want the 89-90 clutch.

- Mike

 

[Mike Kopstain]

We have the stock replacment Clutcmasters kit on the site. They break down like this:

Stage 0 - Stock replacement - $299.99
Stage I - Steel backed organic disc/ HD pressure Plate (perfect for 90% of the aggresively driven cars and takes care of some serious stock defects) - $389.99
Stage III - Kevlar disc/ Dual diaphram Clutch (Takes anything and everything) - $589.99

All include Rev B TOB except Stage III which receives a Revision A TOB (Works better with the DD PP)

 

[SHOMeInPhx]

Warning... Warning...

That clutch kit is listed for the 89-90 models which used the smaller flywheel and lighter duty pressure plate (remember recall?) - Ebay has a bunch of them dirt cheap too. The 91-95 kit is priced at $311 and that is the one you want. If you do in fact have an 89 or 90 with the original flywheel. Do yourself a huge favor and upgrade to the 91-95 flywheel so you can use the better clutch packs. I think I paid $280 at NAPA for a new stock clutch kit (PP, disk, TOB) if you want to save money.

My .02 (make that a full 25 cents), sorry for the bit of a rant, but I really don't think you want the 89-90 clutch.

- Mike

cool! thanks for that, Mike. like i said, i am a newb to the SHO, and will take all that into consideration. probably upgrade, if i can find a flywheel...

 

[revhardSHO]

cool! thanks for that, Mike. like i said, i am a newb to the SHO, and will take all that into consideration. probably upgrade, if i can find a flywheel...

Im sure you have the 91-95 flywheel. Most 89s and 90s with the freakishly small and inadequate 9.25" disk didnt make it much past 10K before they were shot. Ford recalled all these, so you should have the new clutch / flywheel in there.

 

[SHOMeInPhx]

Im sure you have the 91-95 flywheel. Most 89s and 90s with the freakishly small and inadequate 9.25" disk didnt make it much past 10K before they were shot. Ford recalled all these, so you should have the new clutch / flywheel in there.

great! thanks again............. :wave:

i have a lot to learn.....................

 

[Dan H]

Don't go through all the trouble of a clutch job and put in a remanufactured stock unit. The stock PP is inadequate.

The cheapest quality replacement would be the Clutchmasters stage 1 from Mike at Midwestsho.

I went with the Spec stage 2 in my 95 is because I wanted a kevlar disk.

The Spec stage 3 is a great streetable clutch if you plan on forced induction or racing. (I recently removed one from my 92)

The Clutchmasters stage 3 is VERY agressive, definitely not for a typical daily driver. (Recently put one in my 92). My wife and I call it the beast, or Jekel & Hyde; If you forget its there it will surprise you. It is really teaching me what driving a race car on the street is all about. But I love it!

 

[Dan H]

And I highly recommend Josh's ceramic TOB with any and every clutch.

 

[ManySHOs]

The one important thing I don't see being discussed is what flywheel people are using with their clutch choices. I have noticed a trend of slipping and chattering 9 puck clutches that were used with aluminum or billet flywheels that use steel inserts. Those who are using the stock iron flywheel don't seem to complain about them as much. Steel is much smoother than iron and can create problems for clutch materials. I plan on using my SHOshop Al flywheel with a clutchmasters HD PP and organic disc (whatever Mike's middle setup is) because I "think" that may be the best setup for me. (street car, modded 3.2-I want grip but not chatter and I want longevity. I don't enjoy clutch jobs and I am getting less free time to work on the SHO as life goes on)

If anyone has an opinion on anything I just said, I'd love to hear it. I feel like I am taking some risks and gambles with my 3.2 project. I've thought about what I want as an end result but I won't know if I'll have that until I turn the key and start her up after the new motor is broken in.

Ian

 

[NotoriousSAD01]

What Clutch do you think could handle an aggresively driven street car? The MidwestSHO Clutchmasters or the stage 2 Spec Clutch, I'm also considering the stage 3.

 

[Cobraii976]

I'm running a Zoom kevlar clutch from NAPA PP TOB Disk was 325 out the door. The only really nice thing about it so far is it's NOT a puck clutch it's a full face kevlar clutch that grabs like **** does not chatter and can be driven to work everyday. it's been in now almost a year. figure it has atleast 15K hard miles on it and not a single problem to report. There's my .02