what o2 sensor is good

[1993MTXSHO]

I think my car might need new o2's, so does it really matter which sensor I get. I was looking at the ones on rock auto and see the prices vary a lot. Can i get the cheapest ones and not worry about them for 50k miles or more? Or does getting the more expensive ones actually make a difference?:thankyou:

 

[hawkeye18]

Get Bosch 02s. They may cost a little more, but when you have to change the cheaper ones 40% sooner, the cost savings is kind of nullified.

Edit: Denso (NipponDenso) sensors are good too. If those are cheaper, get those.

 

[Mr95Gl]

X2 on Bosch, or set of Motorcrafts if you can find them. I've had nothing but issues with all the others.

 

[ManySHOs]

IIRC, Bosch made the MTX sets for Motorcraft and Nippondenso made the ATX sets.

I am currently running a pair of Bosch that I bought from NAPA a few years ago.

Ian

 

[rubydist]

I have Bosch o2 sensors in 2 of my SHOs from rockauto - that was the best choice for me.

 

[TopGunnYFZ]

Im running Bosch in my car, all is good so far!

 

[frosho]

Same here, Bosch. I've only had 'em in for about 2K, but no problems to report.

 

[AREA 91]

Bosch or Motorcraft.

 

[SHOZ123]

IIRC, Bosch made the MTX sets for Motorcraft and Nippondenso made the ATX sets.

I am currently running a pair of Bosch that I bought from NAPA a few years ago.

Ian

 

[Storm-Chaser]

IAB > then oxygen sensors

Motorcraft > Bosche

* REFERENCE THREAD * -- 172 176 and more really need soem help im at a loss
​

You need to address the IAB issue, first . . . .

And look at all the frustration it's causing you . . . . [ looks for South Park Emoticon that says, "Dude, you're bustin' my balls . . . ." ]

As posted in the other thread:

• change the IAB; clear codes, re-check codes
  
  
• if codes reappear, pull MAF sensor and clean; clear codes, re-check codes
  
  
• if codes reappear, re-wire/re-crimp oxygen sensor harness; clear codes, re-check codes
  
  
• if codes reappear, try wiggle-testing the TP harness/connector; clear codes, re-check codes
  
  
• if codes reappear, change oxygen sensors; clear codes, re-check codes

This is probably the least expensive way to get through the issues you've posted.

The engine only has 87k on it and everything looked great, and yes, I am trying to half ass it lol. I have NO money to spend on this if I really don't have to. Ill throw in the paper filter, i just swapped the mas for a known working one and ill try that out tomorrow. IF that doesnt work the cam sensor will take me maybe 15 minutes to get off and ill take a look/clean that off if I have to. BTW I only cleaned the IAC for the **** of it, I wasnt having any problems with it

* ORIGINAL POST *

ok guys Iv done all I can think of to do on this, and really need some input. As some of you know I just swapped the engine on my atx (old engine ran fine just the bearings were on their way out) I got he new engine in and it fired right up, first turn of the key almost instantly. The only thing I did to the new engine was replace the crank sensor wp, and plugs and of course retimed it. I drove it home, then took the dash apart to replace the CE light (burned out, gee guess it got a lotta use haha). Low and behold once I drove the car the light turned on. It turns on a few minutes after driving, and turns off every time I turn the car off but always comes back on. I ran codes and got 172 176 542 543. I had a feeling I mighta smashed the front 02 sensor and that was why I was getting codes, so I replaced it with another used one. Same problem, then replaced it with another known good one, yet again same problem. I reset the computer and did everything again and got code 172 and 176 but the others were gone. Then I remembered I had to solder the wiring harness because it was cut from the yard. So I rechecked and made some of my solders better, but STILL have the light. The car runs ok and idles fine, but when I step on the gas it kinda shutters a little, not bad but I can feel it. Then I guess it resets to defaults or something and takes off like it did with the old motor. The only thing I haven’t done is replace the rear o2 but it was fine on the old engine and im only getting a code that is saying the front one is bad. Is there anyway to check to make sure my solders are good like stick a meter in the plug and see if it’s getting a certain voltage or something?

Heres the only thread that kinda helped me:

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=83457&highlight=172+176

The car failed inspection (sticker expired in November) and If I don’t go back by end of Feb. they can revoke my registration.:thankyou:

 

[1993MTXSHO]

IAB > then oxygen sensors

Motorcraft > Bosche

* REFERENCE THREAD * -- 172 176 and more really need soem help im at a loss
​

You need to address the IAB issue, first . . . .

And look at all the frustration it's causing you . . . . [ looks for South Park Emoticon that says, "Dude, you're bustin' my balls . . . ." ]

As posted in the other thread:

• change the IAB; clear codes, re-check codes
  
  
• if codes reappear, pull MAF sensor and clean; clear codes, re-check codes
  
  
• if codes reappear, re-wire/re-crimp oxygen sensor harness; clear codes, re-check codes
  
  
• if codes reappear, try wiggle-testing the TP harness/connector; clear codes, re-check codes
  
  
• if codes reappear, change oxygen sensors; clear codes, re-check codes

This is probably the least expensive way to get through the issues you've posted.






* ORIGINAL POST *

Iv done all of that and still am having problems so this is where im at Ok so i lie only thing i didnt do was mess with the TP harness, this is for the other thread though its off topic here

 

[itwonder]

I installed Denso. If they are as good as Denso sparkplugs, I will be happy for a long time.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

ok well i can get brand new bosch sensors for 80 bucks shipped, so I think ill have to go with them... now just to find the money...

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Paging Paul [ SHOZ123 ] . . . .


You may not have seen my response to one of your posts:

So Paul, are they OEM or aftermarket sensors?

I have a new set of MTX 02s for the cheap.

 

[SASHO91]

What O2 sensor is good?

A working one....

*rim shot*


:laugh_ti:
Had to...
Seriously, I have had good luck with Bosch. But then again, im not sure if that's what's in the car either...

 

[SHOZ123]

The O2s are Bosch.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

No, you've half-ass some of it.

And no, it's not off-topic because:

• the IAB problem;
  
  
• *or* the MAF sensor;
  
  
• *or* the oxygen sensor harness;
  
  
• *or* the TPS connector/harness,

could be causing the oxygen sensors to throw codes when they're not at fault.


You have not changed the IAB - and if it is the source of the problem, as stated before, you're *******-in-the-wind until you get that resolved.

First, 10°F is not cold enough to cause the problems you're experiencing. Drive it a few more days - including when the OAT is 10°F or below and the engine is cold-soaked - before assuming it's not a source-problem.


IF the IAB does *not* act-up any more.

You need to [temporarily] remove/replace the K&N panel filter, then physically remove the MAF sensor from the MAF housing and properly clean it. Spraying it while it's still mounted inside the housing will not clean it completely.

Next, you need to re-do the harness repair that you simply soldiered with the incorrect soldier, especially considering that it is in the main engine harness (which you didn't previously mention). Get some high-quality electrical crimps (eg. AMP; a few bucks for 10), the proper soldiering tin, and good-quality self-sealing shrink tubing since the harness is in the engine bay. Remove the section with the incorrect soldier, tin the wire-ends, crimp, and heat/seal the shrink tubing. Measure the 6-wires in the harness for good continuity and low resistance.

Then pull the TPS connector at the throttle body to make sure the terminal-ends, connectors, and insulator o'ring are clean/corrosion free.

If the codes reappear, try wiggle-testing the TP harness/connector.


THEN if codes reappear, change oxygen sensors.



Again, this is probably the least expensive way to get through the issues you've posted. But if you half-ass the above steps, you may end-up needlessly replacing parts and spending more money than you wold have otherwise, as well as risk failing emission inspection.

Iv done all of that and still am having problems so this is where im at Ok so i lie only thing i didnt do was mess with the TP harness, this is for the other thread though its off topic here

IAB > then oxygen sensors

Motorcraft > Bosche

* REFERENCE THREAD * -- 172 176 and more really need soem help im at a loss
​

You need to address the IAB issue, first . . . .

And look at all the frustration it's causing you . . . . [ looks for South Park Emoticon that says, "Dude, you're bustin' my balls . . . ." ]

As posted in the other thread:

• change the IAB; clear codes, re-check codes
  
  
• if codes reappear, pull MAF sensor and clean; clear codes, re-check codes
  
  
• if codes reappear, re-wire/re-crimp oxygen sensor harness; clear codes, re-check codes
  
  
• if codes reappear, try wiggle-testing the TP harness/connector; clear codes, re-check codes
  
  
• if codes reappear, change oxygen sensors; clear codes, re-check codes

This is probably the least expensive way to get through the issues you've posted.

[deleted]

The engine only has 87k on it and everything looked great, and yes, I am trying to half ass it lol. I have NO money to spend on this if I really don't have to. Ill throw in the paper filter, i just swapped the mas for a known working one and ill try that out tomorrow. IF that doesnt work the cam sensor will take me maybe 15 minutes to get off and ill take a look/clean that off if I have to. BTW I only cleaned the IAC for the **** of it, I wasnt having any problems with it

 

[SHOZ123]

Did you re-oil the panel filter? If no then that is not the problem. If you did and put too much oil on it then that's probably it. Too much oil is really easy to do because people do not follow the directions.

I always let mine sit over night before putting it in and running the engine.

 

[jeffrotech]

Denso

I think my car might need new o2's, so does it really matter which sensor I get. I was looking at the ones on rock auto and see the prices vary a lot. Can i get the cheapest ones and not worry about them for 50k miles or more? Or does getting the more expensive ones actually make a difference?:thankyou:

You reminded me to order a set since my new y-pipe just came in from SHOsource! :thankyou:

Denso has the HIGHEST reliability rating - I know this because of my many years of experience at the manufacturing level.

I ordered 2 Denso O2's from RockAuto -- for $32 a piece. Sometimes the cheapest ends up being the best.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

DING-DING-DING !

We have a winner !!! :woohoo:


Yep, he cleaned and re-oil the filter, amongst other things (read the thread link).

And then there's this thread . . . (Read me !)

Did you re-oil the panel filter? If no then that is not the problem. If you did and put too much oil on it then that's probably it. Too much oil is really easy to do because people do not follow the directions.

I always let mine sit over night before putting it in and running the engine.