What is your charging system voltage output? Mine's 14.5v

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6500rpm

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I had some time this weekend and installed a set of LED DRL/Turn signals from Daytime Brightlites and I think I may need to cut down the voltage to their module. Key on, engine off everything works perfect. Key on, engine running causes the DRL turn signals to strobe like a cop car. The factory turn signals always work properly in their usual rhythm, only the DRL turn signal mode strobes. The only difference I can think of between running and not running is the supply voltage (12.6v static vs 14.5v running).
Ford service manual shows that high voltage code doesn't trip until 15.2v and doesn't show a typical normal range.
I was just curious what you guys have for a engine running voltage to try to get an idea if I'm in the normal range or a bit high. I'm going to call Daytime Brightlites tomorrow and see what they have to say and see if I need to install a resistor in the supply wire. Their product looks really nice and well designed in general. The driver module has absolutely no way of knowing if the car is running or not once the key is in the on position. Supply voltage is the only variable.
 

Greg9933

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I have had this same DRL system on my 2015 since it was two months old and no such issue. I recall from my install that the Daytime Bright install instructions were......................a bit lacking, to be polite. I also recall having to double check the orientation of the underhood fuse box, I recall on the first attempt I did not get the correct circuit for activation of the DRL's with engine on. In any event, if you are confident you have the install correct, my suspicion would be a bad control module from DBL. Unless Dan is making them for interceptor's now......

Greg9933
 

rubydist

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ideally, your voltage with the engine running would be 13.8 - 14.2 V. However, most people don't think you really have a problem until over 14.5 or 14.7 V. And then there is the question of the calibration of the meter you are using - who knows what the voltage really is when it reads 14.5 V? So, I don't think you have an over-voltage issue, but it would be good to get a reading with another meter, preferably one that has been calibrated.
 

zoomlater

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ideally, your voltage with the engine running would be 13.8 - 14.2 V. However, most people don't think you really have a problem until over 14.5 or 14.7 V. And then there is the question of the calibration of the meter you are using - who knows what the voltage really is when it reads 14.5 V? So, I don't think you have an over-voltage issue, but it would be good to get a reading with another meter, preferably one that has been calibrated.

I had a meter that was reading way to high (on several cars) due to a weak battery. Changed batteries and all readings came back down to normal.
 

6500rpm

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I've got a good Fluke 87 multi meter. I had a chance to check a 2016 Taurus Limited in the fleet today and it's running voltage was 14.5v when I started it. Oddly enough when I made it to work this morning I checked the turn signal operation after the 30 min drive and they worked fine, shut the key off and restarted and they strobed again. Checked it again when I drove it home with the same results as in the morning.

Edit-
I just put a volt meter across battery B+ and ground, Static voltage is 12.8 so I started the car and turned on the Left turn signal and they were strobing-this is where it gets interesting.
I continued to watch the Volt meter and lights as it ran for a bit over 5 min from cold start. Initial running voltage was 14.5v with the LED signals strobing away. At about 5 minutes of run time the voltage took a dive in a blink of the eye down to 13.2v and at the same time the turn signal resumed normal operation.

Now I'm curious to see what you guys get. My Motorcraft battery is less than a year old according to Oasis repair history. I know that the alternator is pulse width modulated to control the output. What I don't know at this point is if high initial charge rate is part of the strategy, if my new battery is taking a dump and causing it, and what the normal operating voltage range is for the LED light module.

Edit 1/3- Dan returned my call first thing this morning and when I gave him the voltage readings he said it was well within the operating range of the DRL module and he's sending me a new one. Very casual conversation and pretty much a no questions asked attitude on sending me a replacement. From my experience he runs his business with a great deal of integrity toward his customer and have to give him high marks. I'm going to run some tests on the Limited's I run across in the fleet and see what I can learn about their charging characteristics.
 
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xFallenxCripplex

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I was watching one of makuloco vids saying the newer cars use the battery to start then after that all accessories run off of the altinator.
not sure how true and how you could test for that?

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SHOdded

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I think you would need a shunt and an ammeter to monitor the battery the old-fashioned way. There might be inline devices that make this a lot easier to check, but I haven't delved into that.
 

rubydist

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I was watching one of makuloco vids saying the newer cars use the battery to start then after that all accessories run off of the altinator.
not sure how true and how you could test for that?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Its a semantics issue - the battery is a storage device and when the car is running, the alternator is a power-generating device. So, if you are using power while the car is running, the power is actually coming from the alternator even if your consuming device is connected to the battery.
 

xFallenxCripplex

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Its a semantics issue - the battery is a storage device and when the car is running, the alternator is a power-generating device. So, if you are using power while the car is running, the power is actually coming from the alternator even if your consuming device is connected to the battery.
Yes I assume all vehicles are this way but they had said newer vehicles threw me off

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
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