What is wrong with my car??? PLEASE HELP!

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93whiteatx

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i looked off of my brothers 95 and they are the same as that. today i ripped all the plugs and ruffed em up with some fine sandpaper. That did not help. The hotter the motor get gets the shiti*r it runs. really makin me mad. THink I'll sell it and buy a GTP. HAHAHA NOT. but i am getting sick of it.
 

pjtoledo

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Bizzy said:
To test with an ohm meter, jumper the test connector just as you would when doing the self test. One end of the wire or clip ot the signal return and the other goes to the small STI connector. The ohm meter is connected by connecting the positive lead to the positive battery connector. The negative lead goes to the self test out pin in the large connector. That would be the 2nd pin from the left on the bottom of the large test connector. Technically this is pin #4 of the test connector aka Self Test Out pin.

Once connected, run the test as normal except you watch the sweeps of the needle versus watching the CE light. You can have someone else turn the key to on or, if your leads are long enough on the Ohm meter, you can prop it up on the hood and watch the needle from the comfort of your car.

I'll post a pic shortly.

multimetercheckengine.jpg
http://shoforum.com/multimetercheckengine.jpg


You might want to try using the VOLTS function of your V-O-M,,,that's Volt-Ohm-Milliamp meter. AKA multi-meter. The ohm setting is not the right selection for checking voltage!!! Gotcha Beth! :biggrin:



Perry
 

heavylvr

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What you should do youngbuck!

wow..14 and driving?? And a SHO. Good for you!! :dribble: shame you going through trouble with your first car but what you expect for $500?? :) I paid $1,500 for mine and a year and $5,000 later it still gives me trouble.

Anyhowz...My SHO did the exact samething when I got it. Rpm would jump from 500 to 1500 and anytime I stopped, the car would die unless I gave it gas to keep the idle steady at 1000-1500.

Dude..go to a shop, get the codes done for the love of God but I suspect that you might need a new Fuel pump. If the fuel pump is bad, that would mean that gas is struggling to get to your engine..(aka..choking) preventing fuel to pump steadily to the engine. (SEE? fuel to pump?..aka fuel pump :) )

Either that, or have your idle reset. I got 151,000 on my manual 93 sho and its rips up the highways..Zoooooom muthaf**a!! The first thing I did when I got my sho was get a tune up and a new cluth. That will be the major expense of the sho. Oh that and the timing belt. get those done and you should be alright for a good minute. lol
 

93whiteatx

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ok found out what was rong with it. I am so stupid for not checking it. the coil pack has 3 "divisions". each one controls two cylinders. so i thought it couldn't be that so saturday i got on my carhartt and went out to my SHO. and started it. It is a shame to let my neighbors hear it because then he thinks his Hyndaui (japcrap sucks) is faster than my sho whatever. haha. yeh right. anyways so i grabbed my money and went to buy some plugs. then i put them in in the dark and it still didn't run good. so the next morning, today, i put my screw driver on the coil pack and got spark out of all of them except the top right on the pack which would be back left on the motor. so now i just gotta get 99.00 to buy a new one. haha well thanks alot people
 

SASHO91

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93whiteatx said:
It is a shame to let my neighbors hear it because then he thinks his Hyndaui (japcrap sucks) is faster than my sho whatever. haha. yeh right.


hate to break it to you youngin', but our motors our made by Yamaha.
thats a *** company..... :laugh_ti:
 

Devin

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That and Hyundai is Korean.

Dead cylinders definitely would make your car not run well.
 

93whiteatx

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I DON'T CARE WHERE MY MOTOR WAS MADE AS LONG AS IT SAYS FORD ON THE FRONT ITS A NICE CAR. FINALLY GOTER GOIN. i am so glad. and don't buy an 89 coil pack cuz they don't fit unless you "rig" your conector.
 

SonicRiot

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Wow. The funniest part about SHOs is that most of the parts are made or assembled in Canada.

But save the "japcrap" and car bashing comments for another forum. I usually don't say anything about that stuff as I don't care and it doesn't offend me, however, we've lost a board already because of off colored comments, car-bashing, and general disrespect. That ****** me off to think that a helpful and entertaining tool is being abused. We don't want to lose the forum...

Now that I've said that, a couple of things:

Sandpaper on the sparkplugs is useless, unless they are gummed up. In that case, replace them because the porcelain in them gets imbedded with carbon and garbage. This will create an internal short in the wire and cause poor spark or misfiring. So don't clean them, replace them and properly gap the new ones.

Also, I would have said the coil pack shooting from the hip. I haven't scanned the board in a while, sorry I missed your post.

Lastly, the mileage means nothing. Your car has a lot of life left in it, provided it was taken care of. Do a service. Your wallet will mutiny, but your car will adore you.

Except mine. My wallet ran away and my car puits me in the doghouse at least once every two weeks. But I love it. Maybe I'm subconsciously into self-mutilation or *** or something. Creepy.
 

rangerj

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You still need to run the self test for any diagnostic fault codes. Most Auto Zone parts stores will do it for free. If you keep guessing and replacing parts you will continue to be frustrated with the results.

The Ford EECIV (Electronic Engine Control 4) is an integrated system that depends upon the information provided by all of the sensors in order to provide the engine with the proper fuel/air mix and timing. Once you know that all of the sensors are working properly then you can look for mechanical problems.

Given the age and milage of your car it would be a good idea to spend as much time as it takes to check every electrical connection under the hood. Check for corrosion, bent or loose pins, loose connections, frayed or rubbed through wires, broken wires, poor ground connections, especially the battery terminals and the other end of these main power/ground connections.

Make sure good contact is being made at every connection. If the connection is made through a nut, bolt, or screw clean the connection, the threads, and the metal where the contact is made.

When all of this is done then run the self test for any fault codes. If you get any codes clear them and run them again. Then get back to us with the codes that return. Then we can provided helpful hints as to how to diagnose the problem and replace any failed sensors or other parts.

If you continue with your approach to the problem you will spend a lot of money and get very little results. rangerj
 

93whiteatx

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Now I got my brothers 95' atx with 180000 miles and the plug seals leak!! But she looks good and she runs good. 40000mile tranny. The white one is for sale. so call me if your interested. 641 990 0610
 
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